Service Engine Soon light with other symbols

[MAE90M3]

I'd appreciate any guidance or maybe some guesses as to what/if anything the problem may be. I've done some searching and read about other people having the same light pop up and message in the iDrive, but I wanted to give some more background to see if it would help pinpoint what it might be before I take it to my mechanic.

So in the Boston area it has been really cold lately. My car sits in the driveway as we don't have a garage. I just had an oil change, new oil filter housing gasket, and new radiator put in. Due to the weather I've let the car warm up in the driveway for a couple of minutes before driving and staying below 3000 rpm until the car comes to temp. Today, after I went shopping at a store I started the car and noticed the clock had been reset and got the chime to set date and time. The range for the gas had also changed. Nothing else, and thought nothing of it. Later, my wife is driving and she mentioned she had to set the date and time again. Then on the highway the Service Engine Soon light comes on, the battery symbol flashes on but does not stay, and the idrive says increased emissions. No limp mode, car drives normally, and nothing else out of the ordinary (no weird sounds). The battery was replaced about 5k miles ago. Any help would be appreciated!

[yahh]

Sounds like a failing alternator / voltage regulator. I would have it properly diagnosed to make sure that it's not overcharging as it can fry all kinds of modules.

[InnerBlueSkies]

Without a code, alternator would be my guess. If your a DIY kind of guy pick up one from rockauto or similar outfit.

https://www.google.com/search?q=VALE...hrome&ie=UTF-8

[MAE90M3]

Originally Posted by InnerBlueSkies

Without a code, alternator would be my guess. If your a DIY kind of guy pick up one from rockauto or similar outfit.

https://www.google.com/search?q=VALE...hrome&ie=UTF-8

Is it safe to drive until I get it checked out or no?

[InnerBlueSkies]

Originally Posted by MAE90M3

Is it safe to drive until I get it checked out or no?

Sure, I can only speak from experience, my alternator would cut in/out. It won't hurt the car but you may become stranded. Ask me how I know

Got AAA after that.

If you want to see if you alternator is pushing out power check out the video below (again, mine worked intermittently so this technique is not appropriate for diagnosis).

[MAE90M3]

Originally Posted by InnerBlueSkies

Sure, I can only speak from experience, my alternator would cut in/out. It won't hurt the car but you may become stranded. Ask me how I know

Got AAA after that.

If you want to see if you alternator is pushing out power check out the video below (again, mine worked intermittently so this technique is not appropriate for diagnosis).

I just followed the youtube video and with the car/engine on it was pegged at 14.6, with the engine off it was 11.6.

[InnerBlueSkies]

Originally Posted by MAE90M3

I just followed the youtube video and with the car/engine on it was pegged at 14.6, with the engine off it was 11.6.

I'd set it on a trickle charger and check the following day, should be about 12.5.

Keep us updated!

[torrque]

Originally Posted by MAE90M3

I just followed the youtube video and with the car/engine on it was pegged at 14.6, with the engine off it was 11.6.

If battery is on the way out, you will get the errors.. Also 11.6 right after engine running is low, so that confirms the fact that you need a new battery. It should stay > 12v for a while after you switch off the engine (provided you don't have high beam on, heh).

I wanted to add, when the battery is on the way out, the battery monitoring system detects low voltage and shuts down power to accessories like the clock, etc; so what you experienced with clock being reset is due to low battery... I had exactly the same before I changed mine (210 dollars for a H8 at Advance auto parts).

I will help you with reading the codes and diagnosing if you want, just PM me, not far from Boston...

[MAE90M3]

Originally Posted by torrque

If battery is on the way out, you will get the errors.. Also 11.6 right after engine running is low, so that confirms the fact that you need a new battery. It should stay > 12v for a while after you switch off the engine (provided you don't have high beam on, heh).

I wanted to add, when the battery is on the way out, the battery monitoring system detects low voltage and shuts down power to accessories like the clock, etc; so what you experienced with clock being reset is due to low battery... I had exactly the same before I changed mine (210 dollars for a H8 at Advance auto parts).

I will help you with reading the codes and diagnosing if you want, just PM me, not far from Boston...

Awesome, thanks! I will send you a PM.

Does it matter if I only sat in the driveway to idle in order to get the reading instead of driving it for a bit?

Also, the car has mostly been used for several short (sub 10 miles each way) commutes per week. No more than 20 minutes each way. On the weekends it is also used for a few short drives (40 mins at most). Winter isn't exactly the most fun time to drive.

[torrque]

Originally Posted by MAE90M3

Awesome, thanks! I will send you a PM.

Does it matter if I only sat in the driveway to idle in order to get the reading instead of driving it for a bit?

Also, the car has mostly been used for several short (sub 10 miles each way) commutes per week. No more than 20 minutes each way. On the weekends it is also used for a few short drives (40 mins at most). Winter isn't exactly the most fun time to drive.

No, it does not matter. The fact that you drove it that much, and you still had the battery issues points again to a weak battery... I have not started mine for about 10 days in this cold weather and it was fine yesterday; again. New battery.

[MAE90M3]

Originally Posted by torrque

No, it does not matter. The fact that you drove it that much, and you still had the battery issues points again to a weak battery... I have not started mine for about 10 days in this cold weather and it was fine yesterday; again. New battery.

Just got a new message basically saying battery is at low charge. So, I'm gonna say you are right. Thanks for your help! I am gonna replace it tomorrow.

[MAE90M3]

Originally Posted by InnerBlueSkies

I'd set it on a trickle charger and check the following day, should be about 12.5.

Keep us updated!

Originally Posted by torrque

If battery is on the way out, you will get the errors.. Also 11.6 right after engine running is low, so that confirms the fact that you need a new battery. It should stay > 12v for a while after you switch off the engine (provided you don't have high beam on, heh).

I wanted to add, when the battery is on the way out, the battery monitoring system detects low voltage and shuts down power to accessories like the clock, etc; so what you experienced with clock being reset is due to low battery... I had exactly the same before I changed mine (210 dollars for a H8 at Advance auto parts).

I will help you with reading the codes and diagnosing if you want, just PM me, not far from Boston...

Interesting results from the indy shop. They pulled the code and it is for the air intake temperature sensor (I'm probably not remembering it correctly). He tested the battery and said it is fine. Thoughts?

[InnerBlueSkies]

Originally Posted by MAE90M3

Interesting results from the indy shop. They pulled the code and it is for the air intake temperature sensor (I'm probably not remembering it correctly). He tested the battery and said it is fine. Thoughts?

I still believe its the alternator. As I mentioned, a bad alternator/regulator will not just stop working, rather it will work intermittently and then eventually cut out all together.

[pjk380]

When the battery gets low on these cars it can throw all kinds of codes. You mentioned you replaced the battery 5k miles ago. Did you have the battery registered? Is battery voltage still at 11.6 with engine off? 11.6V is a discharged battery. You should see 12.4V-12.8V.

Clear the code for the AIT sensor. If it comes backs your Indy might be right but that has nothing to do with the issue for having to reset the clock all the time. That seems like a battery issue.

As mentioned it sounds like an issue with the alternator, as you have a pretty new battery. It could also be a bad battery. I would try charging the battery and see if it will maintain the proper voltage for a few days. If its not maintaining the correct voltage, time to replace it.

[MAE90M3]

Originally Posted by pjk380

When the battery gets low on these cars it can throw all kinds of codes. You mentioned you replaced the battery 5k miles ago. Did you have the battery registered? Is battery voltage still at 11.6 with engine off? 11.6V is a discharged battery. You should see 12.4V-12.8V.

Clear the code for the AIT sensor. If it comes backs your Indy might be right but that has nothing to do with the issue for having to reset the clock all the time. That seems like a battery issue.

As mentioned it sounds like an issue with the alternator, as you have a pretty new battery. It could also be a bad battery. I would try charging the battery and see if it will maintain the proper voltage for a few days. If its not maintaining the correct voltage, time to replace it.

I only had to reset the clock twice. It has been fine since.

I just went for an hour long drive and when I got back I checked the voltage. It was 15V with the engine on, 12/11.9V with the engine off.

[Eja144]

I can't speak to the battery issue, but if you've recently had work done and are getting a intake air temp sensor code and increased emissions warning, you may want to check the wiring harness for the intake air temp sensor to make sure it's plugged in and seated properly.

[MAE90M3]

Originally Posted by Eja144

I can't speak to the battery issue, but if you've recently had work done and are getting a intake air temp sensor code and increased emissions warning, you may want to check the wiring harness for the intake air temp sensor to make sure it's plugged in and seated properly.

I did have an aftermarket air intake installed. I'll check it out. Thanks!

[pjk380]

Originally Posted by MAE90M3

I just went for an hour long drive and when I got back I checked the voltage. It was 15V with the engine on, 12/11.9V with the engine off.

15 volts is too high. Most car alternators, that normally recharge your battery after every start, and provide power while the engine is running, are normally voltage regulated to about 13.8 to 14.2 volts. 15V will overcharge the battery and shorten its life. I'd have the alternator checked out.

[yahh]

There's no such thing as overcompensating, a properly working alternator should never go over 14.5V, which is the MAX spec on most BMW's. Going over that will start frying modules from excess voltage. We've seen them spike as high as 19V on an E65 and that fried like 7 modules.

[Ajolives]

To me alternator and batteries are like the chicken or the egg scenario, they work hand in hand and sometimes it's hard to figure out which is the culprit without logging some labor.

If it were me, I'd just replace the alternator, mostly because the battery is newer and the inconsistent voltage readings lead me to believe it's not doing it's job. Alternator isn't that much money and is an easy DIY. Just don't get Bosch if you pull the trigger

It could very well be the battery, but highly doubtful it would fail after 5k if installed correctly.

[MAE90M3]

I'm going to replace the alternator. Just tested it again - with the engine on it was jumping between 15 - 15.3 V, and with the engine off it goes down to 12.4 V and drops quickly to 11.6 V.

[TX]

if your battery is discharging that quickly something else is wrong. It should not drop quickly to a resting voltage of 11.6 unless you have a bad battery or heavy discharge on the battery.
I know you said the battery is new in last 5k miles but how long ago was it replaced in time?