Where to start? ... New 1er Owner

[Aro321]

Gentlemen... and ladies,

I recently purchased a 2013 135i, black, Msport package, with only 25k miles and one owner. Car is in terrific shape.

All that being said, I'm trying to determine where to start with "mods"

I don't necessary mean to go for power adders... I'm actually more curious about where to start in terms of maintaining reliability and overall integrity. I don't want to be fixing s#!@ in a year because I installed an exhaust and JB4 before prepping the engine for new piecese.

If anyone can make suggestions, I'd appreciate it. I'm already planning on air/oil separator... and that's as far as I got.

Should I be looking to change fluids to specific brands, what can be done about the hubs to prevent rusting, etc?

I'm sure there is a thread out there but searching for it specifically seemed tough to do so I've started my own.


Thanks for all your help! Happy to be a part of this community!

Pics to follow...

[Swamp Donkey]

It would helpful if you could elaborate on your intended uses i.e.: daily diver, auto cross, track, runway car, drift missile etc.

[Esteban]

Here's a thread with a lot of helpful info for a new owner to look through, if you haven't done so already.

[Swamp Donkey]

Also, welcome!

[Aro321]

Originally Posted by Swamp Donkey

It would helpful if you could elaborate on your intended uses i.e.: daily diver, auto cross, track, runway car, drift missile etc.

Drift missile... I love it.

I'm intending on it being a daily driver overall. I don't intend to leave it stock though. I will most likely hit all the bolt ons except for the turbo, I will work with the stock unit.
- headers
- Intake
- FMIC
- Charge Pipe (which I understand is imperative)
- full exhaust
- JB4 or something similar
- ... open to suggestions after that.

I'm figuring on a build that is around 400+ HP which should be easy given whats on the list.

What isn't on the list is where my concerns come in. I want to make sure the motor is protected when I start this. Things that I feel may need to be improved on but missed by most would be:
- spark plugs
- air/oil seperators
- oil coolers
- any internal that should be considered replacing with stronger parts
- etc.

That's where I'm looking for feedback from those that have done the research and been down this road.

I won't touch the suspension unless a suspension exists that can lower the car without crushing the ride quality (I drive roughly 50 to 100 miles/day which can get exhausting on the body. I had a WRX that I lowered .5" before this and my body felt it. I don't want to deal with that again)

The exterior will be changed some... wheels, 1M style front & rear bumper, and side skirts... these changes aren't mechanical so I'm not too concerned about this.

[Cavpilot2k]

Welcome to the family!
You will find this is a great group.
I've been hanging out over on the M2 page quite a bit lately, as I am looking into getting an M2 next year (but still keeping my 1er, because I'm still in love). What I have found over there (and I understand it's even worse on the M3/4 pages) is you have a lot of people who are just dicks over there.

There is a lot of "your model of M car is shit because..." or "yours isn't a REAL M car because..." and a LOT of "Well, the M2/3/4 is okay, but nothing compared to my Lambo/GT-3/GT-R/etc, etc..."
Basically a bunch of elitist dick wagging.

Here you have a bunch of people who are friendly and supportive and who all just love the 1-series platform. Tons of helpful advice at your fingertips.
It's a FAR better place to hang out.

For my two cents, the best quick/easy mods are (if it is a 6MT) a clutch delay valve delete and BMS clutch stop, and then rear subframe bushings (or whiteline inserts, which are quick, easy, cheap, and a 80-90% as good for a fraction of the cost).

Cheers! Look forward to pics!

[duder13]

I also recently bought a 2012 135i, and I think suspension is still where the focus should be. I don’t mean a stiffer suspension. I just mean improvements, because the 135i is not well sorted. My budget list for a primarily street driver is:

- get rid of run flats (maybe upsize front to 225 to help get rid of understeer.)
- new rear subframe bushings or inserts
- add camber (even just by the pin removal mod)
- since we already have linear springs in the LCIs, just add Koni Sport yellow shocks. This won’t lower the car.

From what I’ve read, that’s a pretty good path to a low cost, but substantial improvement in feel, so that’s my plan. Of course, an LSD would also be nice, but that gets pricier!

All of this being said, I’m occasionally tempted not to do these mods, because the stock suspension setup is so hairy that it feels a bit dangerous, which can be fun.

p.s. I already blew my charge pipe in one month, so yes to that mod!

[Aro321]

What's the significance of the clutch delay valve delete (also, where can I find out how to do it?), I thought about the clutch stop (I'm already noticing how deep the clutch can go vs how far it needs to go, and why the bushings?

... I like each addition to have purpose

Duder -

I agree with losing the run flats (famously referred to as run craps). They are a harsh noisy ride. I'm going to get my use out of them before winter when I'll put winter tires on the stock wheels and plan on VR10s with performance/summer tires during regular season.

- Why add camber? Again, just gaining purpose/significance.

- Why replace the shocks? Will they affect ride quality? (race vs luxury feel)

What is the best charge pipe option? Also, blowoff valve... a lot of reading says unnecessary and that a bypass valve is more beneficial. I had this same debate on the WRX because of the direct injection.

I appreciate everyone's input!!!

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by Aro321

What's the significance of the clutch delay valve delete (also, where can I find out how to do it?), I thought about the clutch stop (I'm already noticing how deep the clutch can go vs how far it needs to go, and why the bushings?

... I like each addition to have purpose

Duder -

I agree with losing the run flats (famously referred to as run craps). They are a harsh noisy ride. I'm going to get my use out of them before winter when I'll put winter tires on the stock wheels and plan on VR10s with performance/summer tires during regular season.

- Why add camber? Again, just gaining purpose/significance.

- Why replace the shocks? Will they affect ride quality? (race vs luxury feel)

What is the best charge pipe option? Also, blowoff valve... a lot of reading says unnecessary and that a bypass valve is more beneficial. I had this same debate on the WRX because of the direct injection.

I appreciate everyone's input!!!

The rear subframe of our cars is not rigidly mounted to the unibody of the car (probably reacting to E46 issues). The original bushings have a lot of rubber between the subframe and mounting point, and allow for a lot of uncontrolled suspension movement under changing loads (I would compare it to having a live axle). Any upgrade is an improvement! The Whiteline inserts, IMHO, are the best option for a DD car. They are super easy to install, and are 90% as good for only 30% the price as M3 bushings. They insert into gaps in the rubber, and fill them with much denser urethane. I got mine for $45 on eBay...

EDIT: The clutch delay valve is meant to reduce shock to the drivetrain by restricting the flow of hydraulic fluid, and therefore damping the action of the clutch relative to the pedal. It significantly reduces fine-grain clutch feel, and makes it extremely difficult for anyone who's learned standard on a car without a CDV to drive smoothly and quickly. It's an hour job, but doesn't really require any super special tools.

Camber compensates for tires' tendency to roll over onto the sidewall in a turn, which reduces grip. Removing the camber pin is an easy way to gain some more, but I'd wait until you're ready to do a bunch of front suspension stuff, as you'll need an alignment afterwards. Just Google "e82 camber pin" or "e90 camber pin" since we have the same suspension.

ANOTHER EDIT: The factory shocks are...okayyy. They don't last very long, and don't have very satisfying damping characteristics for enthusiastic driving tendencies . I like my Koni Sports (Yellow), but loads of people say the FSD is a better shock for street driving, where you aren't riding on the bump stops like on a road course (I need to swap mine).

[elitesales305]

charge pipe .. ;(
my second part installed on car..
blew it off twice.. the second had a hole in it
easy to change.. wont take longer than 30-45 min..

[duder13]

Originally Posted by Aro321

What's the significance of the clutch delay valve delete (also, where can I find out how to do it?), I thought about the clutch stop (I'm already noticing how deep the clutch can go vs how far it needs to go, and why the bushings?

... I like each addition to have purpose

Duder -

I agree with losing the run flats (famously referred to as run craps). They are a harsh noisy ride. I'm going to get my use out of them before winter when I'll put winter tires on the stock wheels and plan on VR10s with performance/summer tires during regular season.

- Why add camber? Again, just gaining purpose/significance.

- Why replace the shocks? Will they affect ride quality? (race vs luxury feel)

What is the best charge pipe option? Also, blowoff valve... a lot of reading says unnecessary and that a bypass valve is more beneficial. I had this same debate on the WRX because of the direct injection.

I appreciate everyone's input!!!

Hi. Chris_flies said it all better than I likely could. I would do all of the above that I listed at the same time (outside of the charge pipe, which you can do immediately,) so you're not doubling up on any service costs.

I'm in the same position as you. They put on brand new runflats on my car, plus I'm under Carmax warranty, so I'm waiting a bit to make changes, but the above list is what I'm planning on doing. The combination of the rear subframe bushings and the oversprung/underdamped suspension leaves a lot on the table with this car, and my list is pretty cheap. As Chris said, going with Koni FSD is another option, if you want a softer ride. The sports are more in-between street and track shocks.

I haven't changed my charge pipe, yet, because of my warranty. I don't want them to try and blame any issues on it, even though that would be absurd. In the meantime, I'm keeping a roll of duct tape in the car, so I can wrap that thing up if it blows again.

[Gangplank]

Recommendations..?

Suspension & handling before power.

Rear Sub-Frame Bushings - Whiteline inserts or Whiteline 2pc. Your choice.

Front M3 control arms. Upper & lower. You can get the TRW brand or BMW.

Rear differential brace. Got it from a member here in the classifieds.

Suspension upgrade... research & budget will help you here more than opinions. Just sayn.

After that... if you want power then it's the charge pipe, intercooler, and a tune. Again here research & budget drive your choices.

Hope that helps.

[Matticus91]

Didn't read through the other posts but if no one else said it, you need to do the NGK one-step colder plugs that you can get from BMS Tuning if you're going to be running a tune. Otherwise expect misfires. You also must do a charge pipe before doing any tuning. And check your oil filter housing gasket for leaks, that can lead to a catastrophic engine failure (drips on pulleys and sends belt cords into turbo/engine, ask me how I know) pretty quickly and unexpectedly.

The N55 is not quite as beefy as the N54 when it comes to internals, FBO is fairly safe but don't expect to run much more than 450 at the crank and have reliability. Be careful with ethanol mixes, even with Flex Fuel wires on the JB4 never go past 45% total mix, and keep in mind most fuels have up to 10% in them already when you go to mix your e85 and 93 octane.

The 2012+ models CANNOT be flash tuned without a bench flash first. If you try you will brick your car. So forget about MHD until you get it benched (usually around $250-350 depending on the shop). JB4 is a piggyback so you're fine with that.

As far as a mod list, feel free to go all-out but I'd recommend getting some seat time and buying stuff as you desire it. You might find yourself wanting a certain thing first much more than something else on your list. If you don't work out the kinks you won't know what issues you're fixing or what personal preferences you're appealing to.

On my 2013 I've been super happy with the JB4 and some suspension work. Doesn't take much to get you to that 400hp mark!

[Aro321]

1. Anyone have any experience with an oil catch can?

2. Which charge pipe is the best to go with?

3. Brand of intercooler?

4. Brand of air intake?

With so many to choose from and a lack of reviews on ECS, I'm hesitant to just buy the most expensive or cheapest...

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by Aro321

1. Anyone have any experience with an oil catch can?

2. Which charge pipe is the best to go with?

3. Brand of intercooler?

4. Brand of air intake?

With so many to choose from and a lack of reviews on ECS, I'm hesitant to just buy the most expensive or cheapest...

No experience with a catch can yet, but now seriously considering one after pouring oil out of my intake manifold for the DISA swap (it's an N52 thing)

VRSF seems like a reputable and reliable brand, even though they're had a few minor QC concerns.

I've heard great things about AFE Intakes for both cars and all three motors.

[duder13]

Originally Posted by Matticus91

The 2012+ models CANNOT be flash tuned without a bench flash first. If you try you will brick your car. So forget about MHD until you get it benched (usually around $250-350 depending on the shop). JB4 is a piggyback so you're fine with that.

Not to be too pedantic, since it doesn't apply to the OP, but some 2012 models can be flashed without a bench flash, depending on the build date. I believe the cars built in 03/12 or later need the bench flash.

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by duder13

Not to be too pedantic, since it doesn't apply to the OP, but some 2012 models can be flashed without a bench flash, depending on the build date. I believe the cars built in 03/12 or later need the bench flash.

It's true, pretty much 2012-1/2+ can't be, the rest can. Didn't figure it to be too relevant to dive into since he's a '13

[duder13]

Originally Posted by Matticus91

It's true, pretty much 2012-1/2+ can't be, the rest can. Didn't figure it to be too relevant to dive into since he's a '13

Yeah, just wanted to mention it for others browsing the thread.

[Esteban]

And to continue the irrelevant but informative topic as to which DME requires a bench flash:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...80&postcount=4