Coding and flashing PSU and charger

[sleeprequired]

So I’m getting my car coded and flashed with all the GTS business. I was reading somewhere that it’s best to PSU while doing the job if possible.

I have these 2 products, will they do the job and how should I do it? Sport noob question

Power supply - http://www.rc-fans88.com/goods.php?id=534
http://www.icharger.co.nz/icharger-308-duo

They were for charging Li-ion rc cars but I think they’ve got what it takes just after a little guidance.

[aboulfad]

Good question and good call but definitely unsuitable products. A PSU is highly recommended during flashing but many risk and flash without one. As I explained in many other threads, many are lucky because of the characteristic of our LifePO4 batteries. Those batteries maintain stable voltage of 13V down to 30% state of charge.

The first is indeed a PSU but the DC voltage is too high, BMW recommends 13V, and from experience, 13.6V is better during programming. If your flashing session is less than 10mns and your battery is fully charged, and you turn off HVAC, lights,... your car will draw around 12-15A with ignition ON, and during flashing and depending on the ECU, anywhere from few amps more to maybe 30A.

The second is a charger and probably does not have a PSU mode. I personally never flash without a PSU, I have one we made and it's a good safety element.

It is less critical to use a PSU during coding as the worst case, your coding session fails and you redo it, further coding does not activate many of the mechanical devices as when you flash some ECUs, so the current draw is less during coding but still the minimum of whatever your car draws with ignition on.

Please do not ask me to recommend what to do, your car, your decision

[sleeprequired]

Right. So that charger, even though it can output 50a at 13.6v cannot be used?

The charger will accept 10v-30v from A PSU.

is there an alternative like hooking up to another vehicle during flash?

[aboulfad]

Usually a charger varies voltage and/or current, you want a PSU mode where the voltage is stable at 13-13.5V , and that device providing the current that is being drawn by the load. Sorry I don't know the specs or operating modes of that charger.

Some people do connect another vehicle during flashing/coding session, but that other vehicle has to have the engine running. One of the most popular charger with dedicated PSU mode for programming is the Schumacher INC-700A.

[Almaretto]

Originally Posted by sleeprequired

is there an alternative like hooking up to another vehicle during flash?

GTS flash is fine connected to another, but would not recommend for flashing entire vehicle.

[milk242]

Sorry for thread jacking but I'm looking for an alternative to the expensive Schumacher and I was wondering if this would be a good PSU

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094K8AAO..._t1_B004W8MQQC

According to the reviews, it is preset to 14.2V but if you take the top case off you'll find a POT that can be adjusted.

[Almaretto]

Originally Posted by milk242

Sorry for thread jacking but I'm looking for an alternative to the expensive Schumacher and I was wondering if this would be a good PSU

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094K8AAO..._t1_B004W8MQQC

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DSR-Power-S...53.m1438.l2649
- you can get additional discounts using Ebates.

[milk242]

Originally Posted by Almaretto

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DSR-Power-S...53.m1438.l2649
- you can get additional discounts using Ebates.

Thanks that's an attractive price for I'm guessing a rebranded Schumacher.

I'm not trying to be cheap just trying to be frugal haha, but if I could find something that does close to the same thing at a fraction of the cost then I think the search is beneficial.

Any opinions on this one? Even cheaper and seems to do 75 amp output with voltage adjustability from 8.75V to 14.2V.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Watt-1...-/121678121268

Thanks again

[Almaretto]

Originally Posted by milk242

Thanks that's an attractive price for I'm guessing a rebranded Schumacher.

I'm not trying to be cheap just trying to be frugal haha, but if I could find something that does close to the same thing at a fraction of the cost then I think the search is beneficial.

Any opinions on this one? Even cheaper and seems to do 75 amp output with voltage adjustability from 8.75V to 14.2V.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Watt-1...-/121678121268

Thanks again

It is original Schumacher.

Least expensive is to build your own.

[dzvero]

they look like converted regular PC power supply. It probably will do the job just fine. Make sure to adjust the voltage properly. I myself made one from regular 700W PC PSU without adjusting the voltage and flashed the firmware on the whole car at once. No issues. Its always good to have backup plan - another car that can be hooked up in case something with power goes wrong. And laptop that can last 1h at least on battery.
http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...ht=another+psu

[sleeprequired]

Originally Posted by dzvero

they look like converted regular PC power supply. It probably will do the job just fine. Make sure to adjust the voltage properly. I myself made one from regular 700W PC PSU without adjusting the voltage and flashed the firmware on the whole car at once. No issues. Its always good to have backup plan - another car that can be hooked up in case something with power goes wrong. And laptop that can last 1h at least on battery.
http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...ht=another+psu

I keep hearing about laptops with batteries, I assume it would be ok to hook the laptop up to power to bypass the battery risk?

[Almaretto]

Originally Posted by sleeprequired

I keep hearing about laptops with batteries, I assume it would be ok to hook the laptop up to power to bypass the battery risk?

I always hook laptop up to power unless just flashing quick module. Vehicle still needs power source.

[milk242]

I ended up buying the dsr psu at pep boys which is cheaper than their ebay store that almaretto posted.

[Almaretto]

Originally Posted by milk242

I ended up buying the dsr psu at pep boys which is cheaper than their ebay store that almaretto posted.

The 12V model?

[aboulfad]

Originally Posted by milk242

I ended up buying the dsr psu at pep boys which is cheaper than their ebay store that almaretto posted.

That just looks like an Schumacher INC-700A !!! Oh wait it is, but branded DSR, weird ... Good price, and probably one of the best price/quality ratio PSU out there.

[milk242]

Originally Posted by Almaretto

The 12V model?

I think so?
https://m.pepboys.com/product/details/216232/01792

[Almaretto]

Originally Posted by milk242

I think so?
https://m.pepboys.com/product/details/216232/01792

No. You are good. "13.0 - 14.8 volts output, up to 70 Amp"

There are a couple DSR that are 12v, which would be insufficient.

[figure99]

Originally Posted by aboulfad

Good question and good call but definitely unsuitable products. A PSU is highly recommended during flashing but many risk and flash without one. As I explained in many other threads, many are lucky because of the characteristic of our LifePO4 batteries. Those batteries maintain stable voltage of 13V down to 30% state of charge.

The first is indeed a PSU but the DC voltage is too high, BMW recommends 13V, and from experience, 13.6V is better during programming. If your flashing session is less than 10mns and your battery is fully charged, and you turn off HVAC, lights,... your car will draw around 12-15A with ignition ON, and during flashing and depending on the ECU, anywhere from few amps more to maybe 30A.

The second is a charger and probably does not have a PSU mode. I personally never flash without a PSU, I have one we made and it's a good safety element.

It is less critical to use a PSU during coding as the worst case, your coding session fails and you redo it, further coding does not activate many of the mechanical devices as when you flash some ECUs, so the current draw is less during coding but still the minimum of whatever your car draws with ignition on.

Please do not ask me to recommend what to do, your car, your decision

I have a CTEK battery charger with a supply mode that can provide a constant 13.6V, but only 7A maximum. To date admittedly I've only ever flashed or coded without a PSU, averaging about 7-10 minutes per session without any issues.... but I have always confirmed my battery was fully charged and in good shape, but was hoping to be able to use my charger in supply mode to reduce any future risk. My obvious concern is that it does not supply enough current. I've never measured how much current my car pulls with the ignition on and during flashing/coding, however I'd like to believe it's pulling less than 7A with EVERYTHING off including DRL, HVAC, Navi, etc, at least with the ignition on only. Perhaps I'm dead wrong (I can easily measure it once the weather in the northeast gets better)... that leaves how much current is required during flashing/codding, which as you mentioned depends on the ECU. Based upon my typical coding sessions of 7-10 minutes, do you believe it is worth running my charger in supply mode at all? I'm not trying to be cheap, just wondering if it helps reduce risk at all since it's something I already own. Thanks for any help.

[aboulfad]

Originally Posted by figure99

I have a CTEK battery charger with a supply mode that can provide a constant 13.6V, but only 7A maximum....

I am curious which CTEK model has PSU mode ???

My car with Ignition ON and with everything else OFF, draws 12-14Amps, during flashing and depending on the ECU, you can get an additional draw of up to 5-15Amps on the F8x. You can query IBS current draw using ISTA or tool32, or connect an accurate DC clamp ampmeter.

So your PSU w 7A while its almost useless, doesn't hurt to have it connected. And if you know your battery health, you can get away flashing without PSU for < 10mns even maybe longer. All these remote vendors subject their customers to that small risk. I personally only connect a PSU for flashing sessions greater than 10mns or if the battery isn't > 80%.

[GregSM3]

Sorry new to all of this - could I not just connect my battery charger to ensure battery makes it through? Current settings are 12v/2amp or 12v/10amp. Also, is there a way to easily check battery health, as I don't drive the car a lot. Thanks.

[Almaretto]

Originally Posted by GregSM3

Sorry new to all of this - could I not just connect my battery charger to ensure battery makes it through? Current settings are 12v/2amp or 12v/10amp. Also, is there a way to easily check battery health, as I don't drive the car a lot. Thanks.

No. Vehicle will draw more power than you are providing resulting in car shutting down. A proper PSU is less expensive than replacing bricked ECU's.

There are ISTA+ procedures to check battery health.

[GregSM3]

Sorry not sure what ISTA+ procedures are?