New (to me) E90 M3 - changing fluids, need input!

[MarkFT]

I'm picking up a lightly used (37k miles/60k km) 2008 E90 M3 6MT on the weekend from its second owner. I have the service records and everything seems to have been done as per the CBS recommendations (or better). But, I like to do more frequent servicing, partly because it's cheap maintenance and partly because I enjoy it!

That being said, I'm looking to do the following maintenance when I get the car using the listed parts/fluids:

6MT Tranny --> Change fluid (Redline D4 ATF or Motul Gear 300) and filter
Brakes --> fluid flush with OEM fluid
Oil & Filter --> Mobil 1 0W40 and Mann oil filter
Differential fluid --> Castrol Syntrax SAF-XJ
Air Filter --> Mahle
Microfilters --> Mann
PS Fluid --> CHF 11S (going to just do the turkey baster method)

Looks like the spark plugs were changed at 28k miles/46k km so they should be good for a while. The differential fluid was also changed at 28k miles/46k km, but I think while I'm under there I may as well change it out as well.

I've been doing a lot of reading on the various BMW/M3 boards and I think I've probably selected the commonly recommended fluids, etc.

Any thoughts/additions/deletions to help give the car a "fresh" start?

I'm also going to give it a full 12-18 hour detailing inside and out...

[kaede]

Congrats!

I did exactly the same thing when i first picked up my vehicle 6 months ago! Here is what i used:

Transmission Fluid: Motul Gear 300
Brake Fuild: Motul RBF600
Brake Line: ECSTuning Front, Mid, and Rear stainless steal brake line set. (honestly you SS lines are really useless on the road... but its not exactly "expensive", so i swap them out anyways xD)
Oil and Filter: Mobil 1 0W40 + Mann Filter (for the summer months now, i just changed the oil out again to a mix of Mobil 1 0W40 + 2.5 quarts of TWS 10w60)
Differential Fluid: OEM fluid (the one with FM... costly as the M3 takes 1.5L, and it costs $50/500ml bottle...)
Air Filter: Active Autowerks Green Filter
Microfilters: Mann
PS Fluid: CHF 11S turky baster way.
Coolant: OEM + Motul MoCool (40:60 mix coolant/water)

Good Luck and have fun!!!

[dlaw]

Congrats! Nice find on a low mileage 08.

I still need to do the power steering, diff and tranny fluids on mine.

I'll be using the Redline on my 6 speed.

[M3Bimmer77]

OP, make sure to use the diff fluid with FM to avoid noises. And use Pentafrost NF by Pentosin for coolant.

[MarkFT]

Thanks for the input all. I received the records for the M3 and saw that the differential fluid was changed by BMW about 9,000 miles ago (14k km), so I'm going to leave that for now.

For the brake fluid I've seen the reference to LV (low viscosity) fluid. I had been planning on just ordering the OEM fluid because it's roughly the same price and also because it is available in smaller quantities so I won't have to throw a lot out if I don't use all of a bottle. But, there's no mention on the OEM bottle that I can see about being LV:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-M3-...luid/ES193630/

Maybe it's assumed since its OEM and all BMWs need the LV fluid??

[Z K]

I would do something similar and have on my own car.

The transmission filter for 6MT doesn't usually need to be replaced. You can take it out, clean it with some brake clean, dry it, replace the washer and put it back in. It is a metal screen filter that is supposed to be re-usable unless it's torn or filled with metal. I've changed transmission fluid twice and both times the filter was clean and fine.

[MrPrena]

6MT Tranny --> Currently debating which one to go with.
Brakes --> Pentosin Low viscosity. Just did the basic baster method (did not do bleed)
Oil & Filter --> Still on OEM
Differential fluid --> Royal Purple. Very happy with it.
Air Filter --> Still on OEM. Vacuumed it out with high pressure vacuum at the car wash place. Looks extremely clean.

PS Fluid --> Fairly soon. CHF 11S (going to do the turkey baster method)

[MarkFT]

Well, finally finished all of the below...

6MT Tranny --> Change fluid (Motul Gear 300) and filter
Brakes --> changed with OEM fluid
Oil & Filter --> Mobil 1 0W40 and Mann oil filter
Air Filter --> Mahle
PS Fluid --> CHF 11S
O2 sensors --> both pre-cats with Bosch OEM equivalent
Throttle Actuators --> Got a code that my passenger's side was going - rather than replacing the whole unit I went with replacement gears from alpina527 from M3cutters.co.uk. Worked perfectly!

Everything went well. Thanks to all who contributed to the DIYs on this forum!

Next on the list:
- replace the exterior b-pillar and rear vertical window frames --> previous owner put "carbon fiber" film on top of them and they left a residue that is impossible to get off and it took some of the finish off
- replace jack pads x 4 --> existing ones are all mangled from improper jacking
- install OEM carbon mirror caps and OEM Type II Performance Carbon Spoiler
- install Turner Motorsport's matte black grills
- install F10 M5 illuminated shifter
- 12 hour exterior detailing (interior done) --> decontamination, clay bar, cut, polish and seal

[kaede]

Originally Posted by MarkFT

Throttle Actuators --> Got a code that my passenger's side was going - rather than replacing the whole unit I went with replacement gears from alpina527 from M3cutters.co.uk. Worked perfectly!

DO you have the contact to this person? I did a seach on M3cutters.co.uk and can't find the thread or info. How much did it cost you for the replacement gears? And are the replacement gears usually what goes wrong with the Throttle Body Actuators (TBA)?

My E90 M3 threw the TBA code twice but have both gone away after a couple days. I am prepping to change both of them but those parts are super pricey... If i can get it fixed cheaper by rebuilding it it will definitely be awesome!!! Please let me know! You may shoot me a PM or you should really share your experience with that on another thread or something! We need to know this!!! Many Thanks!!

[MarkFT]

Originally Posted by kaede

DO you have the contact to this person? I did a seach on M3cutters.co.uk and can't find the thread or info. How much did it cost you for the replacement gears? And are the replacement gears usually what goes wrong with the Throttle Body Actuators (TBA)?

My E90 M3 threw the TBA code twice but have both gone away after a couple days. I am prepping to change both of them but those parts are super pricey... If i can get it fixed cheaper by rebuilding it it will definitely be awesome!!! Please let me know! You may shoot me a PM or you should really share your experience with that on another thread or something! We need to know this!!! Many Thanks!!

Here, check out this thread: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=94742

The OP is the guy you want to contact (Ian, goes by "alpina527") - just send him a PM on the m3cutters.co.uk website and he'll get right back to you. The thread explains it pretty well and was enough to convince me. My thought is the longer you keep running the original gears after you've gotten the code the more risk you run of over-heating the circuit board in the TA. If the circuits go then you're looking at replacing the whole TA.

The cost was just over $800 CA for replacement parts for both actuators with shipping & tax. Seeing as the cheapest parts I could find were about $900 US per actuator + exchange/tax/shipping, it worked out to less than half the price of replacing the TA (which would have the same, apparently faulty, gears).

[Thik]

MarkFT, any difference in shifting with the Motul Gear Oil? Thinking of changing mine to Redline D4 ATF.

Also, why Mobil 1 0W40 instead of BMW 10W60?

[MarkFT]

Originally Posted by Thik

MarkFT, any difference in shifting with the Motul Gear Oil? Thinking of changing mine to Redline D4 ATF.

Also, why Mobil 1 0W40 instead of BMW 10W60?

I've only had the car a short while (1 month), so hard to give an informed opinion on the shifting difference, but it does seem fairly smooth (but I didn't have any particular complaints with the old fluid - seemed like a typical BMW 6MT shifting experience).

As for the Mobil 1 0W40 vs. BMW 10W60: since I'm in a colder climate (Canada) and I have no intention of tracking the car, I decided to go with the lower weight oil for cold start protection and hopefully better protection overall for the identified "tight" bearing clearances. I made my decision based on reading I've done online about possible benefits of switching to 0W40 (or similar) and the positive reports from those who've switched. I'll see how the car runs and go from there.

[kaede]

Originally Posted by MarkFT

Here, check out this thread: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=94742

The OP is the guy you want to contact (Ian, goes by "alpina527") - just send him a PM on the m3cutters.co.uk website and he'll get right back to you. The thread explains it pretty well and was enough to convince me. My thought is the longer you keep running the original gears after you've gotten the code the more risk you run of over-heating the circuit board in the TA. If the circuits go then you're looking at replacing the whole TA.

The cost was just over $800 CA for replacement parts for both actuators with shipping & tax. Seeing as the cheapest parts I could find were about $900 US per actuator + exchange/tax/shipping, it worked out to less than half the price of replacing the TA (which would have the same, apparently faulty, gears).

Did you do the rebuild yourself? Or got an indy to do it for you?

If DIY, how difficult was it? or is it super straight forward? Please let me know as i am only a novice mechanic and don't know if i should tackle this myself, or get an indy to assist. (thinking that even the Indy's probably havent dont a rebuild of the TBA. My indy only replaced new ones before). Many thanks!

[MarkFT]

Originally Posted by kaede

Did you do the rebuild yourself? Or got an indy to do it for you?

If DIY, how difficult was it? or is it super straight forward? Please let me know as i am only a novice mechanic and don't know if i should tackle this myself, or get an indy to assist. (thinking that even the Indy's probably havent dont a rebuild of the TBA. My indy only replaced new ones before). Many thanks!

I did the rebuild myself. The supplier from M3cutters.co.uk provides good instructions with pictures and makes it pretty easy. Honestly, if you have the skills/patience to take the throttle actuators out, you can open them up to replace the gears.

[M3Bimmer77]

Originally Posted by MrPrena

6MT Tranny --> Currently debating which one to go with.
Brakes --> Pentosin Low viscosity. Just did the basic baster method (did not do bleed)
Oil & Filter --> Still on OEM
Differential fluid --> Royal Purple. Very happy with it.
Air Filter --> Still on OEM. Vacuumed it out with high pressure vacuum at the car wash place. Looks extremely clean.

PS Fluid --> Fairly soon. CHF 11S (going to do the turkey baster method)

Hello Mr Prena. I have a question on the non bleeding of the brake lines. It's my understanding that the water on the brake fluid is what causes corrosion on the lines. If you donnot clean the lines, what good does it make to change just the reservoir fluid?

Also haven't you experience diff noises for not using the BMW with castrol SAF-XJ + FM?

[MrPrena]

Originally Posted by M3Bimmer77

Hello Mr Prena. I have a question on the non bleeding of the brake lines. It's my understanding that the water on the brake fluid is what causes corrosion on the lines. If you donnot clean the lines, what good does it make to change just the reservoir fluid?

Also haven't you experience diff noises for not using the BMW with castrol SAF-XJ + FM?

Yeah, I agree on brake fluid line. I just had enough to change the cylinder after doing the W204's.

As for differential fluid, I did some research and hw on this site before I used Royal Purple. People recommended, and I tried it. It works great, and has no grinding noise.

[Yvette]

how many litre do 6mt tranny fluid take?

[kaede]

Originally Posted by e90sexion

how many litre do 6mt tranny fluid take?

Around 3 Quarts/Litres iirc