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04-17-2017, 07:19 PM | #23 |
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04-17-2017, 07:54 PM | #24 | ||
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04-18-2017, 09:35 AM | #25 | |
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Tomb raider, gear of war 4, and my latest ghost recon look ridiculously good on ultra settings. |
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04-18-2017, 10:30 AM | #26 | |
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Make sure to invest the budget into the GPU and an SSD boot/game drive. nvme is awesome, but SATA III SSD is also good enough for gaming. Don't do a platter drive... skimp on the processor first (ie i5-7600/k) if you have a budget to meet. 1080 Ti is basically all you need for AAA titles at the UWHD resolution you are aiming for with that monitor. Good move identifying a G sync display, too. That's imperative. |
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04-18-2017, 11:20 AM | #27 | ||
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I'm still thinking things through. I'm having a difficult time pulling the trigger on the ti based on the cost. I can get an evga 1080 sc for $475 vs 700 for a ti card. I know at the rez I'll be playing at the ti card will perform ~25% better. But I'm coming from a 670, maybe the 1080 sc will be great?
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04-18-2017, 11:22 AM | #28 | ||
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Man it us such a different world playing on a widescreen! I wish they had those back in my prime (mid 90s to mid 2000s).
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04-18-2017, 12:20 PM | #29 |
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once you get acclimated the factory settings lets you OC atleast 150+core/300 mem.
I tried using a custom vbios and did 250+ core and it was stable but I didn't feel comfortable with the high temps. |
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04-18-2017, 12:53 PM | #30 | |
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Also if you go this route you can skip the watercooled CPU (I also have a Kraken X62) and just get a Hyper 212 and save a TON of coin. Unless you are doing content creation, you are going to be GPU bound in games and the CPU will make up maybe a 5% difference in frametimes. |
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04-18-2017, 01:50 PM | #34 | |
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I'd definitely ditch the platter drive though in favor of a larger SSD. Load times and transitions/cut scenes will do much better with such a setup. |
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04-18-2017, 02:23 PM | #37 |
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04-18-2017, 02:28 PM | #38 |
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Not that anyone asked, but here's my setup:
NZXT Manta case in white/white with a display window Intel I7-6700k running at 4.7 GHz cooled by a Kraken X62 in push-pull 32 GB of DDR2666 MSI 1080 Gaming X Samsung 960 EVO 500GB boot and apps drive (M.2 NVMe) Samsung 850 Pro 1TB Games drive (SATA III) (corrected a typo) Asus Z170i pro gaming Mini-ITX mobo (corrected a typo) EVGA 850 W G3 power supply A lot of corsair white LED fans, and pretty white sleeved cables I obviously went overkill in places but it's what i wanted! Last edited by ashmostro; 04-18-2017 at 04:50 PM.. |
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04-18-2017, 02:28 PM | #39 |
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I still do Flight Simulator. Still enjoy it, but it does need a PC with lots of HP.
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04-18-2017, 02:31 PM | #40 | |
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04-18-2017, 02:32 PM | #41 | ||
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04-18-2017, 03:44 PM | #42 |
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Without knowing what form factor (size) you are interested in as well as whether you need wifi or will solely be using ethernet, doing a rudimentary filter brought up the following non-overclockable but still M.2 + other featured-boards that would save you coin but perform admirably with the right CPU and GPU.
If you want to overclock, look at these mobo options I am of course assuming you go Intel but there are fine X370 mobos out there for Ryzen R5 series chips as well. Just do a similar search if you prefer Team Red. But yeah, for an intel CPU I would go with i5-7500 if you're not overclocking and i5-7600k if you are going to (and then get a water cooler like the Kraken). You really only need 16 gigs of RAM so just get a quality brand with low timings. Corsair, Mushkin, Geil, etc. Just pick with suits your visual needs. For drives, I would recommend the largest NVMe you can afford, but only a good model that meets the throughput specs of NVMe, like Samsung or Toshiba. Do your research here because some new NVMe M.2 drives don't perform any better than their SATA counterparts (but still cost more). For a second drive if you want more capacity, get yourself a 1 or 2 TB SATA SSD. It's expensive but it's going to be the second most influential part for perceived performance. And get whatever 1080 Ti brand you like. They're all the same thing, really. Just don't get a founder's edition card bc they're noisy - go with an aftermarket board. Power supply, again pick a reputable brand but go with a high wattage that places you at around 50% power draw per the rating (so if your system is going to draw 400 watts at full tilt, get an 800 watt power supply). Most mid to high end PS's these days will run on silent if you keep them in the 50% power draw range, while also being more efficient while they're at it. Case is obviously a personal choice so I won't advise anything there. Just remember to choose your case FIRST because that dictates form factor for the motherboard, which constrains features, etc etc. GOod luck |
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04-18-2017, 03:46 PM | #43 |
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04-18-2017, 03:51 PM | #44 | |
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Most games don't process physics that way though, and so they tend to be more GPU bound. Knowing your specific likely use cases is very important here. |
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