[CoolGuyNilo]

Crossing my fingers for this one,
After searching around a bit I found a couple people with my same scenario but not a clear thread on a solution.
Today After work it was on my way home driving with no issues but as I was getting home my car gave me the engine overheating light (yellow) and soon after the red one, my engine temperature had not even got close to the 240 it usually sits at (I'm almost sure it was around 210) (I should mention my oil is a bit low but I'm planing on replacing it as soon as I get my car running again, haven't got oil change light) so after I pulled over I waited a little and then turned it back on, almost immediately the lights came back on and I had to drive with decreasing power, by the time I pulled into my driveway I was almost idling, so I waited around an hour and checked my coolant (after a solid hour of forum searching) the tip of the stick inside the coolant tank was parallel with the rim of the tank[as the diagram shows "low] (not about an inch higher as it should normally be) so I topped it off with 50/50 bmw coolant and water.. I've read a few people say that this fixed their issue (temporarily???) but I don't want to go ahead and start my car without reading the opinions of the few experts on this forum.. Is it normal for coolant to just go low? I checked with flashlights from a few angles and I see no visible leak
Thank you so much
If anyone is experienced in this scenario I'd appreciate a call to make things a bit quicker but a reply is equally appreciated. Thank you 3057331530

[Jklad]

Your water pump took a dump. When it fails the car will shut down way before your oil temps have a chance to reach 230. It's to protect the engine from overheating.

Replace your wp and tstat at the same time.

[335xiRT1]

Sounds like water pump

[Digitalism]

Had the exact same thing happen to me last week.

Coolant was low as well, also tried topping up as well.

If you can pull codes from your car than you should be getting water pump fault related codes.

Replace water pump and thermostat as previous guys have mentioned.

[VTECaddict]

Originally Posted by CoolGuyNilo

so after I pulled over I waited a little and then turned it back on, almost immediately the lights came back on and I had to drive with decreasing power, by the time I pulled into my driveway I was almost idling

wat

[mikex25]

Because our cars wp have a tendency to fail, it's good to constantly check your car for codes. I recently got some codes that were related to a wp failure, but my car still ran great without any hiccups. Having the codes it gave me a warning to replace the wp instead of damaging my engine or being stranded.

[Veeemdoubleu]

i got waterpump for sale lol cheap. i can even install for u. but i am in SJ

[CoolGuyNilo]

Originally Posted by Veeemdoubleu

i got waterpump for sale lol cheap. i can even install for u. but i am in SJ

I'm just getting used to using this app (if you could shoot me at text that would be great) 3057331530 and thank you guys for the help, that's pretty much what my research told me but I wanted advice before I went out and dropped 600 on wp/t

[CoolGuyNilo]

Originally Posted by VTECaddict

wat

As I drove my throttle progressively became less reponsive

[Bakeme521]

It is most definitely your water pump. It is is an electric water pump so when they go, they kind of go in and out and then they are gone. It is a common problem so I can promise you thats what it is. Your throttle goes away because the car is trying to stop you from driving it. And you should've stopped immediately because that is how you blow headgaskets.

Your gauge on the dash is an oil temp gauge it is not related to the engine temperature because it's heat convection coefficient is much lower (this is why your water temp goes up much faster than your oil temp). So even though your engine was very hot because cool water from the radiator was not flowing through the engine block, the oil temperature will not see much of a swing if any. IF it were to see a large swing then that thing got really hot.

Mine went out and it did the exact same thing. There is a way to test it to be absolutely sure. Here are the steps.

- Insert the key FOB into the ignition and without stepping on the brake, press Start.
- With the climate control now activated, adjust the heat to the highest setting (both driver and passenger) and set the fan to low.
- Now hold down the gas pedal for ten seconds and release.

Once you have done this you should be able to hear the water pump come on, if you don't hear anything its dead, or sometimes it will make a weird whining noise which means its also dead. It should sound like a motor spinning like a light hum. Put your hand on different radiator hoses and see if you can feel water slushing through, if you can't its dead.

I would recommend changing the Tstat and the pump, there is a full DIY on here and you can do it yourself if you have a little bit of mechanical inclination for about half of what an indy shop would change and 1/3 of what the dealer would charge.

Hope this helps

[techwhiz]

It's the pump.
Do the thermostat while you are in there.