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      10-04-2007, 09:24 PM   #1
Evo8MRto335I
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Specifically for those that do drag racing

Having had 7 AWD cars and being racing at the dragstrip with them for the last 12 years I still consider myself an amateur when it comes to drag racing with RWD, why?, because not a single time I raced a RWD at a drag strip, it always been FWD and or AWD..

Taking my RWD 335i to the track has been a new experience to me but I am opening this topic to hopefully get the best set up for drag racing on my 335i.
I have done about 30 passes so far but not a single time I went bellow 2.0 60'. Indeed I need to drop to 1.8 60 at least.


So far I realized that having 18" is just a waste, I rather have 17". I was going to buy a set of DR and put it on my stock 18"x8.5" rims but then I realized that a set of DR wouldn't last much and they aren't neither cheap nor ideal for all around driving. Besides that, the stock 18x8.5" rims weight how much? like 24lbs?

With that said and keeping in mind that I do a lot of drag racing I consider that it would be much better of to just have a set of spare 17"x8.5" rims for the back with a set of DR and that way I can switch them in 15 minutes and go to the dragstrip .

I have been reading all the pertinent post but many of you suggested either too expensive rims or too heavy rims. I think I narrowed down to something like Kosei 17x8.5" at a weight of 16.5lbs and a cost of $165 a piece.

Having 17" DR will save me about $100 per tire instead of going with the same size on 18". I really don't care if the car looks franskinstein, I just want to go 1/4 mile straight then go home switch to stock tires and rims and drive 99% of the time on stock tires.

If you are one like me and have better idea for cheaper(rims and tires), and lighter(rims) please give me your input. So far I don't see any reason to go with 18's configuration when 17" configuration gives you the same performance and saves you hundreds of dollars.

By the way, my best so far is a 2.045 60' ,13.389@106.30 on 91oct, stock tires, 3100ft elevation, sport coupe , steptronic and Procede v1.47 .

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Last edited by Evo8MRto335I; 10-04-2007 at 10:07 PM..
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      10-04-2007, 09:41 PM   #2
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This is specifically what I am going for guys:

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/resul...ar=&sort=Brand

Kosei k1's http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/wheel..._sil_ci3_l.jpg

And these are the tires:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes....+Drag+Radial+2

And this is why I prefer to go 17", look at the prices on these 18"DR:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes....FA+Drag+Radial

Like I said, no reason to spend $300-$600 extra for a set of tires/rims that will perform equally. I checked on Sears, I checked on Tire Rack, disccount tires, Subbydude and a couple of local stores and off course I read many other topics on this forum .
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      10-05-2007, 03:29 PM   #3
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The DRs will help you quite a bit. I agree you don't need 18s. I would probably go with Weld Racing rims if you can find anything that works with BMW lug pattern since the lightweight rims are for track only. Weld rims are not street worthy but are even lighter than the Kosei.

If you are not concerned about looks even 16s would work so long as it clears the brakes.

Btw considering you are using the step how are you launching the car? Torque brake and mash? or simply mash? Using DS or manual or D? Also, are you spinning your tires now?

Funny part is I drag race alot too and I own an EVOVIII MR as well. Although my drag racing is mostly bracket.
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      10-05-2007, 04:34 PM   #4
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Why go 17s? I'd go 16's, or 15's even if they would clear the rear brakes. Get as much sidewall wrinkle and contact patch as you can. LSD is also a must too but figure you'll get that if you're going to drag race a lot.

I predict that there will be no decent aftermarket torque converters available for these cars. I mean, the demographics just aren't there and the market is probably tiny, or more likely non-existent, for a loose converter. Kind of a shame really as it would probably drop your times by about a second with tires...
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      10-05-2007, 04:56 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chowbow View Post
Why go 17s? I'd go 16's, or 15's even if they would clear the rear brakes. Get as much sidewall wrinkle and contact patch as you can. LSD is also a must too but figure you'll get that if you're going to drag race a lot.

I predict that there will be no decent aftermarket torque converters available for these cars. I mean, the demographics just aren't there and the market is probably tiny, or more likely non-existent, for a loose converter. Kind of a shame really as it would probably drop your times by about a second with tires...

Thanks for the responses guys. The 15" rims are absolutely out of the question since the brakes would not clear. As far is 16" rims, Imight actually go to a disccounttire shop and have them try.

As I mentioned before, I am not about looks but about practicality. If the 16" can do the job then I will go with the 16" that way not only they will be cheaper but alsolighter.

As far is the LSD,it is absolutely in the far horizon. I don't think the stock car handles that bad however I admit that the car would benefit greatly from the LSD.

Please check back on this post as I will go and try to test 16"rims soon.
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      10-05-2007, 04:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbomatic View Post
The DRs will help you quite a bit. I agree you don't need 18s. I would probably go with Weld Racing rims if you can find anything that works with BMW lug pattern since the lightweight rims are for track only. Weld rims are not street worthy but are even lighter than the Kosei.

If you are not concerned about looks even 16s would work so long as it clears the brakes.

Btw considering you are using the step how are you launching the car? Torque brake and mash? or simply mash? Using DS or manual or D? Also, are you spinning your tires now?

Funny part is I drag race alot too and I own an EVOVIII MR as well. Although my drag racing is mostly bracket.
I am launching on M1 and ocasionally on DS. I launch the car with DTC press once and also pressed for 5 seconds however I am experiencing a stupid reaction from the car like when it gets close to redline the car pulls back, maybe I am hitting redline and the car slightly looses power without me noticing it.

I am definately getting me a set of rear rims with a set of DR, it is the matter of time before I find the perfect combo: price,weight.
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      10-05-2007, 05:17 PM   #7
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I think your launches are going to suffer a lot without an LSD... Might be something to look at sooner than later?

The motor falls flat on it's face at 6500RPMs or so, it's not a traction control issue, just turn it off completely and shift early (I'm assuming you can force an early upshift at WOT with an auto).
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      10-05-2007, 08:13 PM   #8
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Ok guys, this is an update and I truly hope to help other people following the same narrow criteria. I ended buying the Kosei K1 with a set of BF Goodrich T/A 2.

Let me tell you something though, I spent a good hour of my life at a local disccounttire Tucson store checking clearances. The 16" will not clear the calibers so no more guessing and speculating.

This is now about 17" or bigger. I ended with the Koseis because there is absolutely no other rim that can beat the Kosei for the price and weight: $165/16.8lbs at 17x8.5" rim.

I want it to buy the BF goodrich T/A but they no longer make the size I want(275/40/17), they do make the BF Goodrich T/A II though.

Anyway, as I said before, I really hope I helped you guys with my private search, I think I couldn't go wrong with such set up. The overall savings from 17 compared to the 18" is no less that a good solid $350-$450.

I know that many of you rather spent a few thousand dollars and get some fancy and exotic rims(OZ ultraliggereas, Volks 37,BBS forged and what not) but you know that the DR will wear out very fast if you live it on your car for daily driving. This is the reason why I want it to capture that 5% of 335i owners that actually will consider having a spare set of 2 lighweight rims just for the track, then after drag racing you can put back the all around PS2s.


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      10-05-2007, 10:52 PM   #9
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No 16s for on the rear?? I recall a specific 16" rim that had a lot of clearance and many people were using that rim for winter setups. I'll post it if I can find the model. You running skinnies up front too? Although honestly you'll get some laughs running 12s/13s with skinnies nowadays. But it can shave a little time off. I still say converter is something to shoot for, maybe someone will make a one off to you. A 4000 stall with >3.0 STR would be pretty sweet.
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      10-10-2007, 11:04 PM   #10
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I received the rims and tires today. I picked them up from a local disccounttire store. They truly look massive and they feel very light weight.

All that I am asking you now is to stay tune to this topic as I will be posting my new 60' and 1/4 mile times soon. I also want to post pics of the wheels/tires on the scale and compare them with the stocker 18"/255's.

I can't say I recommend them yet because I need to take the car to the track first. So far the price and the weight of the rims makes them winners already(16.8lbs,$165 a rim).

more to come.....
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      10-12-2007, 12:32 PM   #11
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Have the Koseis also, makes the car so much more responsive to acceleration and braking... Some other posts mentioned that the stock rims are 32 pounds a piece, so 64 pounds in total at the wheel helps a ton. Love to see someone try drag radials on there.
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      10-17-2007, 11:18 PM   #12
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keep us posted, great work BTW.
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      10-18-2007, 12:08 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evo8MRto335I View Post
This is specifically what I am going for guys:

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/resul...ar=&sort=Brand

Kosei k1's http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/wheel..._sil_ci3_l.jpg

And these are the tires:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes....+Drag+Radial+2

And this is why I prefer to go 17", look at the prices on these 18"DR:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes....FA+Drag+Radial

Like I said, no reason to spend $300-$600 extra for a set of tires/rims that will perform equally. I checked on Sears, I checked on Tire Rack, disccount tires, Subbydude and a couple of local stores and off course I read many other topics on this forum .
Evo8MRto335I,

Did you have an issue with the tires being too wide for the rims. The recommended rim width range is 9" to 11" for your tires. I hear what you are saying about the $$$ savings, especially with only running them at the track.
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      10-18-2007, 10:35 PM   #14
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I put the tires/rims in so that the car is ready for the dragstrip tomorrow. There is absolutely no rubing issues at all, there is still a small gap on the whell well and definately the tires are very well seated and sealed with the weight of the car.

I weighted both tires one more time(stock vs aftermarket), the aftermarket weighted 20.2kilos or 44.5lbs and they were inflated at 38psi. The stock tires weighted 25.5 kilos or 56.1lbs and they were inflated at 27psi.

I drove around the block and my tire pressure sensor lit and stayed on. I took a few pictures but unfortunately my Canon rebel XT charger is no were to be found and my battery ran low as I was taking more pics. I promise I will post more pics whenever I get the battery charged.

In less than 24 hours I will find out how much these tires really improved my 60' times and my overall 1/4 mile times.
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      10-19-2007, 01:04 AM   #15
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The light won't go away as you do not have TPMS sensors on the rear tires, but who cares, you don't need them for track tires. Should get some 1.8s at the least, shoot for 1.6s.
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      10-20-2007, 03:49 PM   #16
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Well, as I promised, the results are in. I ran a 12.719@110.69mph on the 1/4 mile at the dragstrip (South Western International Raceway, Tucson, 3100ft)

This was done with real timeslips and no Gtech or belltronic. The tires helped. I ran then at 22psi. I only did a best of 1.922 60' but it overall helped me with the times.
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      10-20-2007, 08:41 PM   #17
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What RPMs were the launches? 1.9x seem attainable on RFTs, at least from some members' slips here. Granted every track is different. How was track prep and VHT?
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      10-24-2007, 08:35 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chowbow View Post
What RPMs were the launches? 1.9x seem attainable on RFTs, at least from some members' slips here. Granted every track is different. How was track prep and VHT?
I have not been able to get below 2 seconds w/ my 6MT and runflats no matter what I do........matter of fact has ANYONE?
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      10-24-2007, 12:59 PM   #19
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I believe a couple people have... can't remember their names on here though.
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      10-25-2007, 02:16 PM   #20
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I know its been done w/ an auto, but I have not seen anyone w a manual do it. Hopefully its possible.
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      10-25-2007, 02:58 PM   #21
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That is a huge improvement in time for a small improvement in the 60'. I would expect to see about a 13.0 with that change in 60' from your initial 13.389. I think the lighter drive wheel and lower psi in the tires might have affected your overall wheel/tire diameter enough to also affect your gear ratio a bit in your favor. Maybe it was just the temperature and track prep that day giving you a bit of an edge on top of everything else. Go on some other days to see if the performance can be duplicated.

Eitherway that is a great time for V1.47 only at your altitude.

High stall torque converter may not be beneficial in this case if you are just going to develope more traction problems without an LSD.

I would buy the front rims too from Kosei because you are saving alot of weight in the rotational mass. Run skinnier drag radials on the front as they are much lighter than most performance tires.

BTW what rpms did you launch from? I know the torque braking should allow at least 1800rpms if not more.
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      10-25-2007, 04:20 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniz View Post
I know its been done w/ an auto, but I have not seen anyone w a manual do it. Hopefully its possible.
If a stock auto can do it, a manual can do it for sure. Stock converters are so mild that it doesn't really multiply torque and it doesn't have a high flash RPM. I'd bet a manual will get better 60' times than autos with high RPMs and clutch manipulation.
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