[RWDinWisconsin]

After a lot of reading of posts I went for a Cobb AP. I got it last night and started to play with it on my computer, which instantly made me come up with some questions.

First off, the Cobb website has maps for all sorts of ECUs. How do I know what ECU is in my 2008 335i Sedan?

Secondly, I went with the Cobb because I am looking for as close to plug and play as possible (at least initially until I get my tuning feet under me). To that end, what would those who have more experience recommend I do with this thing in the first few weeks? I looking for guidance on "run X map, look for Y response, make sure z is happening and (inset some bad thing here) isn't happening."

I've also seen other posts recommending certain other items to look at when adding a tune, items like spark plugs, air cleaners, etc. Advice on watch outs there would be appreciated.

The car has about 26k miles on it, It is a CPO so I have a few more years of power train warranty on it. I live in Wisconsin and typically run BP 93 Octane fuel in it. I'm not a street racer, but I do like to drive spiritedly. Really looking forward to some butt dyne runs this weekend.

Thanks in advance for any advice you are willing to share.

I tried to search for a thread like this but didn't find anything. If one exists already, I am willing to take the ridicule for asking an "old question". Just hoping to get a collective response from experienced folks.

[oshusttoley]

read the thread below dude. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472813
i also have a 08 335i sedan.....i was really thinking about buy the cobb. let me know how it turns out! i myself am REALLY new to BMW and to the whole tuning area lol

[marv85]

when you plug in the AP to your car, it will let you know what your ECU ROM revision is.

Since you have no other mods on the car you are stuck with Stage 1 maps only.
Drive/Sport can be run with 91 octane (minimum rating) while Aggressive maps need 93 octane.
You're good for Stage 1 aggressive.

With that said, a tune will bring to light parts that are near their end of life. Spark plugs, coils, injectors and more can be too weak to support the tune. At that point, you would flash stage 0 or just a less aggressive map until you sort out your hardware.

Even if everything is OK, I would always log on the aggressive maps to make sure I'm not getting timing drops....

Enjoy

[rader1]

Originally Posted by marv85

when you plug in the AP to your car, it will let you know what your ECU ROM revision is.

Since you have no other mods on the car you are stuck with Stage 1 maps only.
Drive/Sport can be run with 91 octane (minimum rating) while Aggressive maps need 93 octane.
You're good for Stage 1 aggressive.

With that said, a tune will bring to light parts that are near their end of life. Spark plugs, coils, injectors and more can be to weak to support the tune. At that point, you would flash stage 0 or just a less aggressive map until you sort out your hardware.

Even if everything is OK, I would always log on the aggressive maps to make sure I'm not getting timing drops....

Enjoy

+1 Couldn't have said it better.

[Fun w/N54]

Where in WI are you...I'm in between Milwaukee and Sheboygan.

Used Cobb AP on my 135 last year and now in service on my recently purchased 335.

Only mod I have and $$ well spent in my book.

[skim7x]

I would start with the FAQ on the Cobb website. That should answer about half of your questions. Change your spark plus about every 25k miles and engine oil every 5000 miles.

[RWDinWisconsin]

So I loaded the Cobb and what I can say is "WOW". I first put in the Aggressive map and ran around a bit. It was painful waiting for the temp to come up, but once it did and I had a chance to try out the tune I was very impressed. I then switched to the Sport map and while not as impressive it is still a noticeable difference over the stock configuration. I'll probably leave the Sport map in most of the time (assumption being it is a little "safer" and I don't have to fear my wife putting 91 octane in the car and not knowing it).

Can you help me understand what a "timing drop" is? There is one spot on the log that at about 50% throttle and 300 rpm the cylinder one timing went to negative 14 degrees. The highest timing is in the low thirties.

I live just south of Madison.

Thanks

[marv85]

Originally Posted by RWDinWisconsin

So I loaded the Cobb and what I can say is "WOW". I first put in the Aggressive map and ran around a bit. It was painful waiting for the temp to come up, but once it did and I had a chance to try out the tune I was very impressed. I then switched to the Sport map and while not as impressive it is still a noticeable difference over the stock configuration. I'll probably leave the Sport map in most of the time (assumption being it is a little "safer" and I don't have to fear my wife putting 91 octane in the car and not knowing it).

Can you help me understand what a "timing drop" is? There is one spot on the log that at about 50% throttle and 300 rpm the cylinder one timing went to negative 14 degrees. The highest timing is in the low thirties.

I live just south of Madison.

Thanks

There is a sticky in this section that explains what timing is.

About the drops, you need to log a WOT log preferably in 3rd gear from about 2500-3000 to redline. make sure traction control is completely off. 2nd gear would do but make sure you have decent traction.

It is in the duration of WOT window that you want to look for timing drops which could be due to a lot of things (low octane, bad plugs, high IATs and more).

you can post the logs here

[MB335i]

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=493245

[RWDinWisconsin]

I had a chance to go out this weekend and do a run with the car. Here is a data log running the aggressive stage 1 map, the car was warmed up and I had been running the sport map for a while, then I switched to the aggressive map for this pull. I rolled out to third gear then got on it until redline, shifted a couple times (as seen in the graph). Everything seems normal and consistent in the third gear pull, then in 4th gear the timing values seem to vary, and in 5th gear they go even more haywire. Anyone care to look at the data and tell me what I am looking at?

Thanks.

[Simon76]

You need to start logging about 2000rpm in third, pull until redline(full throttle), shift and stop logging halfway in 4th..

[RWDinWisconsin]

why would I need to stop log gin halfway through 4th gear? Any comments on the existing data?

[crypticc]

Originally Posted by RWDinWisconsin

why would I need to stop log gin halfway through 4th gear? Any comments on the existing data?

cos you'll be more than tonning it by then.

[E90SoFlo]

Usually its for safety reason to wait until you slow down a bit in 4th to stop logging

[Simon76]

I can´t make heads or tails of your data..
You need a wot log in third gear. And i use to keep logging a bit into fourth, to check for timingdrops..

[RWDinWisconsin]

After having the aggressive map loaded for a couple days and about 30 miles of driving I went out last night and did some more pulls. Here is a data set of about the 6th pull I did.

I was having trouble with the Automatic wanting to kick down to 2nd gear, but I found if I rolled onto the throttle until about 3500 RPM it would not kick down on me.

I am still seeing what I saw before, it looks like the timing stays consistent through the third gear pull but then after the shift to fourth gear the timing for individual cylinders goes haywire. I don't think this would be normal, any comments would be appreciated.

/Users/robertschellin/Documents/BMW/Data Logs/April 10 Agressive.pdf

[itsmeek]

When you say "aggressive", which tune (number) are you talking about? If you are running anything besides tune 1 or 5- and you have no other mods, you're welcoming a blown engine.

[Lulz_M3]

Relog and include IAT's, they are probably 140+.

[RWDinWisconsin]

The maps I have been running are all stage 1 maps. The map run for the log above is stage 1 aggressive linear throttle.