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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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First thing
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05-18-2011, 07:22 AM | #1 |
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First thing
What was the first thing you did aftermarket-wise to your 335i. Do you recommend getting all the supplementary parts before going with a tune? I have searched but all i really found was wars on GIAC vs this or that. Do you recommend exhuast, IC, intake and so one before getting a tune? I'm looking at trying for around 350-380 to the wheels. I know what tunes and aftermarket parts can get me there but i don't have the funds to do all at one time.
Last edited by jpop8807; 05-18-2011 at 07:24 AM.. Reason: Forgot something |
05-18-2011, 07:28 AM | #3 |
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Iambetter ya thats what I am planning on doing as of now I'm still in korea I come back in July going to Ft. Hood next. I am looking at 2 08 335i one is a all black sedan the other is a black coupe with red interior. I'm just wandering will the tunes automatically react to other parts freer flowing exhuast and so on or will the chip or whatever have to be sent off. Sorry new to the bimmer scene.
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05-18-2011, 07:32 AM | #4 |
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METH, METH and METH.
This car overheat and knock as hell, a METH kit is so required for heat soak, and knock.
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05-18-2011, 07:48 AM | #5 |
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Haha so i'm guessing meth? Will keep that inmind especially seeing texas temps probably aren't that forgiving. Is meth a constant thing does it always run? I'm about to google how meth kits work lol.
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05-18-2011, 07:49 AM | #6 |
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well, you got to have a bit on knowledge with METH before getting it, and you need a tune. I'd get an FMIC then DP first and a TUNE, maybe later METH
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05-18-2011, 07:57 AM | #7 |
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It's up to you. Most people get a tune first. If you dont plan on tracking your car hard or doing pull after pull you won't have to worry about heat soak just yet.
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05-18-2011, 08:28 AM | #8 |
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My strategy would be to maximize the gains even without a tune first.
I would get an intercooler first, it helps even when you are bone stock and the weather is hot. A catless downpipe-back exhaust (only the secondary cats removed) would be next on my list, you get better performance even being stock, not to mention the sound satisfaction. After these mods you maximize the potential of Stage 1 tunes so you can get a Stage 1 tune (Cobb, GIAC Stage 1, JB4 map 1 or Procede autotune). If you want more, add a set of downpipes and you are ready for a Stage 2 tune. A cold air intake with a Stage 2 tune will also help, I would add it together with the intercooler if funds permit. |
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05-18-2011, 08:37 AM | #9 |
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I think manuals are having much less issues on the heat problems, so consider that. I have a 6MT which did come with the factory oil cooler and I have never EVER exceeded 250 degrees. I did add Redline water-wetter to the coolant and I use Redline 5W-30 in my engine (7 quarts per oil change). It is worth the $12 per bottle IMO and it reduced my temps, on average, about 5-10 degrees driving around down here in the hot/humid Alabama summers. I need to do a hard-core track day and see how things hold up!
I believe the tune is going to give you the most power, hands down. Basically just don't run more boost than your supporting mods. Stock DV's don't need more than about 12 or so psi, for example. I had an OCC before I even picked up my car from the dealer and I personally went with SSTT first and even it lost power very quickly due to IAT's, so I replaced the FMIC (went with AMS) and basically solved that problem. Next I replaced the intake filter and added some scoops for good measure (Macht Schnell stage 1) to make sure I have plenty of incoming air flow without adding extra heat like with DCI's. Now, with Cobb AP I also went ahead and replaced the stock DV's and charge pipe (I went with Synapse kit) before actually installing the AP because that is just too much boost for the stock DV's. FMIC and DP's are going to help reduce stress on your turbos and therefore help reduce heat and increase longevity. I am in the process of ordering 3" catless DP's in preparation for AP Stage 2. Keep in mind, these are general everyday mods. Track junkies know what they want anyway but usually opt for LSD, coilovers, slotted rotors, etc. Good luck and happy tuning |
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05-18-2011, 09:32 AM | #10 |
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Engine/oil/water temperature has nothing to do with the Intake Air Temperature which is lowered by an intercooler. The turbos heat the air by compression and the stock intercooler has a hard time cooling the charge air in hot temperatures.
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05-18-2011, 10:11 AM | #11 |
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Procede, Dual Cone Intakes, Meth Kit ... Hello 400whp all day.
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05-18-2011, 10:14 AM | #12 |
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TIRES
Loose the RFT's. No point in adding tons of power if you don't have traction. 2. Tune 3. Meth 4. DCI 5. DP 6. FMIC 7. LSD 8. Suspension 9. Exhaust 10. Turbos
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2008 BMW 335i e90 - Sold - Rob Beck Turbos / PROcede V5 / Aquamist HFS-4 / AR Downpipes / AE Exhaust / ER Comp FMIC / ER CP / TiAL BOV / Custom Intake / RPI Scoops / Quaife LSD / Swift-Koni Coilovers / DSS HS / Morr VS8.2 Sig Black / Michelin PSS / P3 Boost Guage / M3 body / M3 steering wheel / Adam's Rotors / Hawk HPS / SS lines /
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05-18-2011, 11:06 AM | #13 | |
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ONLY my IAT's did with SSTT but then I added the AMS FMIC and basically solved that problem. 2 separate situations for sure, as the transmission and/or oil cooler wouldn't matter in that scenario! |
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05-24-2011, 04:21 PM | #14 |
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Ya on the drivetrain, I'll probably not track the car. I can only afford to get one car and now that I'm newly married I'm looking at the E92 335i. My wife wants either a Z4 like the 05-08 or the same year SLK350. But I have found a few 335i for under 25000. So I'll be looking at a automatic. Thanks for all the advice. I guess I will go for the FMIC first. And as stated max out my upgrades without a tune first. Do you guys like the AMS front mount is AA any good? Hey also what are DCI's sorry not very good with acronyms.
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05-24-2011, 05:07 PM | #15 | |
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05-24-2011, 05:36 PM | #17 |
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I prefer to get a tune first. Without a tune, on stock boost levels, the benefits of most mods are going to be relatively small. If you are like me and like to feel the rewards after each mod, get the tune first, because it will just amplify the affect of each thing you put on the car.
My plan: 0. Oil Catch Can (OCC) 1. Tune 2. DCI (dual cone intake) 3. DPs (downpipes) 4. Meth 5. FMIC 6. Upgraded Turbo 7. Exhaust (stock exhaust with the catless DPs are plenty loud enough for me, plus the gains don't justify the noise for me. I'm getting old, lol) 8. Sell car for a 911 turbo. |
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05-24-2011, 05:44 PM | #18 | |
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05-30-2011, 05:28 PM | #19 |
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Haha nice well thats the thing that confuses me like coming from honda's and toyota's everytime you would add something you would want to get it returned to justify difference in a/f and so on. Especially with like kpro. So how do these tunes work? Do they just adapt to increases in breathing or more airflow in? Or if I do add say DP's or something like that would i have to retune?
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05-30-2011, 06:23 PM | #20 |
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If you look in the dyno section I did a step by step dyno upgrade path. I started with the tune first.. It was an instant 100hp I also have a manual and never hit above 230-240.
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05-30-2011, 07:15 PM | #21 |
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No need to retune with new components for most of the tunes on the market. With Vishnu's Procede(what I run), you can just change between 1/4 maps with the cruise control, Map 0 = stock, Map 1 = 13.5, Map 2 = 14.5, Map 3 = No boost (for better milage), Map 4 = Meth, I think. You can also hook a laptop up to it and choose differant boost settings if the standard ones don't fit. No need to worry about timing and fuel, the tune takes care of that automatically. They also have an autotune functionality that adjusts timing/boost based on how your car is running, but it is not currently available with their latest and greatest maps.
I did this, and don't regret any of it or the order... Performance Mods 1) Tune (JB+, then Proceed, I prefer Procede) 2) Intercooler and secondary oil cooler (CP-e combo) 3) Dinan Stage 1 suspension and M3 lower control arms 4) WaveTrac LSD
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