Bleeding Clutch Help :(

knivez · 05-16-2011, 09:59 PM

So I removed my CDV today and now I can't figure out how to bleed the system. I've read all the DIY's on here, but I still can't unscrew the valve. I'm using a 11 open ended wrench. There's only enough room to turn it about 2cms. I can't do a full rotation.

Also, do I need to turn the plastic nipple too?

Here is a picture for reference. I've already taken out the plastic covering though.

I'm not sure if I even need to bleed though. My clutch feels the same, but I'm sure there is air in there. Any long term consequences of leaving the air?

knivez · 05-17-2011, 01:17 AM

Anybody?

jdbretz · 05-17-2011, 06:53 AM

I never bleed my clutch with I installed the modified Clutch Delay Valve, but if you want to bleed it, removed the rubber cap from the bleeder valve, loosen the nut on the bleeder valve about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and attach a bleeder hose. The next part takes 2 people....one will depress the clutch pedal, after the clutch pedal is in, tighten the the bleeder valve nut. Once its tight again have the other person pull the clutch pedal back up. Repeat until no air bubbles come out of the bleed line. The technique above is taken from where I read somewhere on the forum, so I am not sure if there is a easier way, but since no one else replied I thought I would try and give ya a little help. As far as the consequences of not bleeding the little bit of air out, I'm not sure.

2kaccordocoupe · 05-17-2011, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdbretz

I never bleed my clutch with I installed the modified Clutch Delay Valve, but if you want to bleed it, removed the rubber cap from the bleeder valve, loosen the nut on the bleeder valve about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and attach a bleeder hose. The next part takes 2 people....one will depress the clutch pedal, after the clutch pedal is in, tighten the the bleeder valve nut. Once its tight again have the other person pull the clutch pedal back up. Repeat until no air bubbles come out of the bleed line. The technique above is taken from where I read somewhere on the forum, so I am not sure if there is a easier way, but since no one else replied I thought I would try and give ya a little help. As far as the consequences of not bleeding the little bit of air out, I'm not sure.

This manual method is spot on. You can use other things like power bleeders etc... that are more of a vacuum type bleeder that will do the same thing but with only 1 person.

As for the consequences of having air in your system? You need to compress fluid to release your clutch, if you have air in the system you cannot compress as much fluid so you may find that you are grinding some of your gears when shifting or the clutch pedal may feel a little mushy as opposed to firm.

If your pedal feels fine and your gears are changing smoothly then don't worry about it.

knivez · 05-17-2011, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdbretz

I never bleed my clutch with I installed the modified Clutch Delay Valve, but if you want to bleed it, removed the rubber cap from the bleeder valve, loosen the nut on the bleeder valve about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and attach a bleeder hose. The next part takes 2 people....one will depress the clutch pedal, after the clutch pedal is in, tighten the the bleeder valve nut. Once its tight again have the other person pull the clutch pedal back up. Repeat until no air bubbles come out of the bleed line. The technique above is taken from where I read somewhere on the forum, so I am not sure if there is a easier way, but since no one else replied I thought I would try and give ya a little help. As far as the consequences of not bleeding the little bit of air out, I'm not sure.

Thanks for the info. I know everything you said. I'm just having a hard time loosening the bolt. I can only turn it just a little bit and nothing comes out. I've read that one must also turn the rubber nipple. I need clarification thanks!

Kevin@AKMotorwerk · 05-17-2011, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knivez

Thanks for the info. I know everything you said. I'm just having a hard time loosening the bolt. I can only turn it just a little bit and nothing comes out. I've read that one must also turn the rubber nipple. I need clarification thanks!

remove the rubber nipple, its only there to keep dirt out of the bleed hole

make sure the clutch resiviour is full, its in the back of the brake master cylinder, it doesnt hold very much at all

have someone pump the clutch a few times, and then hold it down, open the bleeder, yes its tight it may take a few repositions with the open end of the wrench, let the air/fluid come out, and repeat until the pedal feels good.

keep in mind during bleeding that the clutch system doesnt hold much fluid, so every two or three bleed cycles check the fluid level

boom · 05-17-2011, 06:05 PM

I tried bleeding my clutch with the above method when i flushed my brake fluid and it never worked. I don't know what kind of shithead designed that valve location but he ought to have his ass removed. Anyway, I ended up just opening it and used a suction bulb to draw the fluid out. I just could never get the clutch pump method to work. I read somewhere that depressing the clutch all the way let's air in and you're only supposed to go half way. Try the suction method. Its much easier.

Sniz · 05-17-2011, 06:07 PM

you can just remove the slave cylinder and do it while its in your hand, easier. Lets you position the bleeder as the high point as well to make sure all air is out.

SSDD · 05-17-2011, 06:13 PM

The problem most people run into, including myself, is just that the resovior isn't actually full. There is a partition inside to seperate the brake and clutch systems. Even if it looks full, make sure to top it off and make a run at pumping/bleeding again. Good luck

knivez · 05-17-2011, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevin@AKMotorwerk

remove the rubber nipple, its only there to keep dirt out of the bleed hole

make sure the clutch resiviour is full, its in the back of the brake master cylinder, it doesnt hold very much at all

have someone pump the clutch a few times, and then hold it down, open the bleeder, yes its tight it may take a few repositions with the open end of the wrench, let the air/fluid come out, and repeat until the pedal feels good.

keep in mind during bleeding that the clutch system doesnt hold much fluid, so every two or three bleed cycles check the fluid level

I removed the plastic cover. The plastic nipple is actually attached to the valve.

knivez · 05-17-2011, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSDD

The problem most people run into, including myself, is just that the resovior isn't actually full. There is a partition inside to seperate the brake and clutch systems. Even if it looks full, make sure to top it off and make a run at pumping/bleeding again. Good luck

If it isn't full why am I am able to press down the clutch? I thought if there isn't any fluid the clutch wouldn't engage?

SSDD · 05-18-2011, 07:37 AM

I am by no means an expert, so I really couldn't tell you. My guess would be enough fluid to still operate, but not enough to displace the air in the lines. If you're still stuck I would send a PM to Matt@Camber-Toe. Great guy and very knowledgeable

dukeandtheland · 10-23-2012, 01:51 PM

Finally somebody is feeling my pain!
I just tried to bleed this MFocker and damn there is no way I can even reach that.
See pictures taken:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=761695

Quote:

Originally Posted by boom

I tried bleeding my clutch with the above method when i flushed my brake fluid and it never worked. I don't know what kind of shithead designed that valve location but he ought to have his ass removed. Anyway, I ended up just opening it and used a suction bulb to draw the fluid out. I just could never get the clutch pump method to work. I read somewhere that depressing the clutch all the way let's air in and you're only supposed to go half way. Try the suction method. Its much easier.

PCA335xi · 10-07-2021, 06:40 PM

Sorry to revive an old thread but there is surprisingly not a lot of traction on the actual resolution. You can definitely bleed the slave cylinder with a manual bleed or pressure bleeder.

After 2 hours of bleeding today we figured out that only the very top right of the master cylinder is the slave cylinder reservoir.

**It holds practically NOTHING.**

We had to refill the entire master cylinder after each bleed to be sure we didn't run it dry again. We did it manually then, once we figured this out about the slave cylinder reservoir, followed it up with a power bleeder to make sure all the air was out.

R3dLeader · 10-08-2021, 11:08 AM

The best and easiest way to bleed the clutch is in the below video and thread. No need to pump the pedal, no need to open and close the bleeder multiple times. Just one time.

You want to pump fluid into the slave cylinder from below so that it pushes all the air UP through the system and out the reservoir (cap open).

If you go the other way (push the air down, against gravity), it is very easy to run the system dry. I do not recommend this. What happens when you pressurize the reservoir is the fluid easily runs down and out of the slave cylinder and then your system is full of air. The air does not get pushed down, only the fluid runs out due to gravity.

Yes, turning the bleeder screw is a bit tough but with the right wrench and angle you can turn about 1/8 at a time. It sucks, but it is not too bad.

You need to get a syringe from autozone or a small oil can, fill it with brake fluid, attach it to the slave cylinder bleed nipple, open the reservoir cap, lower the fluid level in the reservoir, then push fluid into the slave cylinder until your reservoir fills up. This will push all the air up through the system and out the cap of the master reservoir. Easy and foolproof.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256352

bbnks2 · 10-08-2021, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R3dLeader

The best and easiest way to bleed the clutch is in the below video and thread. No need to pump the pedal, no need to open and close the bleeder multiple times. Just one time.

You want to pump fluid into the slave cylinder from below so that it pushes all the air UP through the system and out the reservoir (cap open).

If you go the other way (push the air down, against gravity), it is very easy to run the system dry. I do not recommend this. What happens when you pressurize the reservoir is the fluid easily runs down and out of the slave cylinder and then your system is full of air. The air does not get pushed down, only the fluid runs out due to gravity.

Yes, turning the bleeder screw is a bit tough but with the right wrench and angle you can turn about 1/8 at a time. It sucks, but it is not too bad.

You need to get a syringe from autozone or a small oil can, fill it with brake fluid, attach it to the slave cylinder bleed nipple, open the reservoir cap, lower the fluid level in the reservoir, then push fluid into the slave cylinder until your reservoir fills up. This will push all the air up through the system and out the cap of the master reservoir. Easy and foolproof.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256352

This 100! reverse bleed. You can rent a vacuum hand pump at advance auto for free. Send fluid up from the slave. Works every time. I forget if the pedal should be up or down when doing this...

Use a socket and extension to crack the bleed valve open... then use the wrench once it's loose. I have found that it needs to be open by several threads not just 1/4 turn.

PVE93 · 01-05-2023, 03:01 PM

Just replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder on my 2009 335i. After seeing other DIY's, was concerned about bleeding - this worked like a champ!

Getting that upper slave cylinder nut off the stud was a fun time - Not!

Thanks for the reverse bleed link!

Leanped · 01-08-2023, 01:55 PM

I've had a lot of luck with the standard pump and release method. One thing that seems to help a lot if there is a TON of air in the system is to rapidly jiggle the clutch pedal near the top of its range to try and knock some bubbles loose. I also recommend starting with one of those handheld vacuum pumps that you can fit on the bleed nipple and using it in combination with the pump and bleed method. Once you get some pedal back, ditch the vacuum.

Lastly, to access the bleed nipple better, I usually do this with the transmission mount off, so it hangs down more. This only works if your driveshaft is disconnected, so it's most useful after doing a clutch job.

Be patient and keep the reservoir topped up. It will happen eventually!

05-16-2011, 09:59 PM	#1
knivez Private First Class 12 Rep 151 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: texas iTrader: (1)	Bleeding Clutch Help :( So I removed my CDV today and now I can't figure out how to bleed the system. I've read all the DIY's on here, but I still can't unscrew the valve. I'm using a 11 open ended wrench. There's only enough room to turn it about 2cms. I can't do a full rotation. Also, do I need to turn the plastic nipple too? Here is a picture for reference. I've already taken out the plastic covering though. I'm not sure if I even need to bleed though. My clutch feels the same, but I'm sure there is air in there. Any long term consequences of leaving the air?
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05-17-2011, 01:17 AM	#2
knivez Private First Class 12 Rep 151 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: texas iTrader: (1)	Anybody?
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05-17-2011, 06:53 AM	#3
jdbretz Captain 51 Rep 923 Posts Drives: '18 X5d, '12 M3 ZCP, '12 F30 Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FL Panhandle iTrader: (10)	I never bleed my clutch with I installed the modified Clutch Delay Valve, but if you want to bleed it, removed the rubber cap from the bleeder valve, loosen the nut on the bleeder valve about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and attach a bleeder hose. The next part takes 2 people....one will depress the clutch pedal, after the clutch pedal is in, tighten the the bleeder valve nut. Once its tight again have the other person pull the clutch pedal back up. Repeat until no air bubbles come out of the bleed line. The technique above is taken from where I read somewhere on the forum, so I am not sure if there is a easier way, but since no one else replied I thought I would try and give ya a little help. As far as the consequences of not bleeding the little bit of air out, I'm not sure.
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05-17-2011, 06:05 PM	#7
boom My X5d tows my spec miata to the track. 74 Rep 1,254 Posts Drives: 2010 X5 35d Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: USA iTrader: (0)	I tried bleeding my clutch with the above method when i flushed my brake fluid and it never worked. I don't know what kind of shithead designed that valve location but he ought to have his ass removed. Anyway, I ended up just opening it and used a suction bulb to draw the fluid out. I just could never get the clutch pump method to work. I read somewhere that depressing the clutch all the way let's air in and you're only supposed to go half way. Try the suction method. Its much easier.
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05-17-2011, 06:07 PM	#8
Sniz Lieutenant General 656 Rep 10,587 Posts Drives: e92 335 - gone // e36 M3 turbo Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Ellicott City, MD iTrader: (1)	you can just remove the slave cylinder and do it while its in your hand, easier. Lets you position the bleeder as the high point as well to make sure all air is out. __________________
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05-17-2011, 06:13 PM	#9
SSDD Reading > Posting 20 Rep 220 Posts Drives: 09 E90 335i Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Frederick, MD iTrader: (4)	The problem most people run into, including myself, is just that the resovior isn't actually full. There is a partition inside to seperate the brake and clutch systems. Even if it looks full, make sure to top it off and make a run at pumping/bleeding again. Good luck __________________
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05-18-2011, 07:37 AM	#12
SSDD Reading > Posting 20 Rep 220 Posts Drives: 09 E90 335i Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Frederick, MD iTrader: (4)	I am by no means an expert, so I really couldn't tell you. My guess would be enough fluid to still operate, but not enough to displace the air in the lines. If you're still stuck I would send a PM to Matt@Camber-Toe. Great guy and very knowledgeable __________________
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10-07-2021, 06:40 PM	#14
PCA335xi Enlisted Member 2 Rep 39 Posts Drives: 335xi Join Date: Oct 2021 Location: VA iTrader: (0)	Sorry to revive an old thread but there is surprisingly not a lot of traction on the actual resolution. You can definitely bleed the slave cylinder with a manual bleed or pressure bleeder. After 2 hours of bleeding today we figured out that only the very top right of the master cylinder is the slave cylinder reservoir. It holds practically NOTHING. We had to refill the entire master cylinder after each bleed to be sure we didn't run it dry again. We did it manually then, once we figured this out about the slave cylinder reservoir, followed it up with a power bleeder to make sure all the air was out.
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10-08-2021, 11:08 AM	#15
R3dLeader Second Lieutenant 154 Rep 214 Posts Drives: e92 and e93 335i Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: West Coast iTrader: (0)	The best and easiest way to bleed the clutch is in the below video and thread. No need to pump the pedal, no need to open and close the bleeder multiple times. Just one time. You want to pump fluid into the slave cylinder from below so that it pushes all the air UP through the system and out the reservoir (cap open). If you go the other way (push the air down, against gravity), it is very easy to run the system dry. I do not recommend this. What happens when you pressurize the reservoir is the fluid easily runs down and out of the slave cylinder and then your system is full of air. The air does not get pushed down, only the fluid runs out due to gravity. Yes, turning the bleeder screw is a bit tough but with the right wrench and angle you can turn about 1/8 at a time. It sucks, but it is not too bad. You need to get a syringe from autozone or a small oil can, fill it with brake fluid, attach it to the slave cylinder bleed nipple, open the reservoir cap, lower the fluid level in the reservoir, then push fluid into the slave cylinder until your reservoir fills up. This will push all the air up through the system and out the cap of the master reservoir. Easy and foolproof. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256352
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01-05-2023, 03:01 PM	#17
PVE93 Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: 2009 335i convertible (E93) Join Date: Jan 2023 Location: Florida iTrader: (0)	Just replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder on my 2009 335i. After seeing other DIY's, was concerned about bleeding - this worked like a champ! Getting that upper slave cylinder nut off the stud was a fun time - Not! Thanks for the reverse bleed link!
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01-08-2023, 01:55 PM	#18
Leanped New Member 9 Rep 29 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW 335i ST MT Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Minnesota iTrader: (0)	I've had a lot of luck with the standard pump and release method. One thing that seems to help a lot if there is a TON of air in the system is to rapidly jiggle the clutch pedal near the top of its range to try and knock some bubbles loose. I also recommend starting with one of those handheld vacuum pumps that you can fit on the bleed nipple and using it in combination with the pump and bleed method. Once you get some pedal back, ditch the vacuum. Lastly, to access the bleed nipple better, I usually do this with the transmission mount off, so it hangs down more. This only works if your driveshaft is disconnected, so it's most useful after doing a clutch job. Be patient and keep the reservoir topped up. It will happen eventually!
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