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135i/335i beginning to tune
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04-07-2011, 06:13 PM | #1 |
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135i/335i beginning to tune
Hey guys i know people get trolled for usually asking these questions but i am going to be getting into a 335i and i have done research on a few mods like procede and Jb3-4 and had a few questions and was interested on if anyone had feedback for the certain amount of whp i wanted to achieve. Anyways i am looking for the range of 350-375whp to put the subby stage 2s asleep This is what i had in mind :
-Jb4 with Dual cone intakes, i basically live 2 mins away from simi and thought since burger motorsports is right there i would support them and run there flash. -Downpipe, was thinking of either RR or AR for a downpipe any suggestions not to good with this aspect -Diverter valve/BOV was thinking of either Hks, Forge.... -Catback Exhaust AMS, Eisenmann... -Methanol Injection kit, Devils own, Snow performance... -Sport Springs H&R, Eibach ... -Rear Sway Bar -Torque Mounts -Short Shift Kit -VMR 19s I hope this seems like a pretty solid build, have yet to drive an steptronic version and this car will be my daily driver, was thinking of the manual for the fun but heard the steptronic shifts and downshifts amazingly. Let me know on some feedback about these ideas and feel free to let me know of any mods you prefer and would not prefer as i continue to research more and more on the forums! BTW i will have a 4-5k budget for tuning and other modifications |
04-07-2011, 07:33 PM | #4 |
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IMO, with bolt-ons get the cheapest you can find. The cheap eBay downpipes work perfectly fine, and there is a DIY intercooler for less than $400 that equals or outperforms the expensive name-brand units.
If you have a manual running high boost (over 16 psi), be wary of the shift bog. It is still an issue that manifests in both piggybacks today. Skip the Short Shift Kit. They all increase shift effort for virtually no benefit. I had one on my 6MT 135i and when I went back to the stock shifter it was the best thing I ever did. Personal preference of course. In regards to upgrading the charge pipe or BOV/DVs, I run upwards of 19 psi on the stock charge pipe and DVs without any issue. I've run Forge DVs before on the stock pipe, and after one of the pistons in the DV got stuck, I decided the stockers are the best fit. With the meth kit, I definitely recommend doing it right and getting the Snow Performance or Aquamist kits. Do NOT skimp on the meth flow sensor. Go with a single M10/CM10 nozzle or dual M5/CM5s. I prefer the simplicity of a single nozzle personally. Having both owned the 6MT and 6AT, I say for drag racing or highway rolls, go with the 6AT. The shorter gearing, faster shifts, the ability to launch in 2nd gear and the amount of boost it holds through the shift make it far superior to a 6MT. If you'll be taking it on a road course, you simply cannot beat the control of a 6MT. And as I said before, 6MTs have that annoying bog issue to deal with as well, especially since you're going piggyback. By the way, with your shopping list, you will make an easy 420-430 whp if not more. Good luck.
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04-07-2011, 07:55 PM | #5 |
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I was told vishnu procede i believe have a good tune, which is around 695 for it. And also i heard of this golf tee mod i was told it is a lot like the flapper mod which i had for the R32 and i loved the sound not sure how it would sound with downpipe and what not. Do not want that really high pitched sound if you know what i mean a nice deep tone with a little highs is nice. Would you rather run charge pipe over bov? And wow 430-450 whp would be nice !
Also found out cobb has a nice tune let me know thoughts on that as well! |
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04-07-2011, 08:02 PM | #6 | |
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the golf tee mod makes your car sound a bit more gurgly (raspy?) I don't have it done, nor do I care for the sound. I have full bolt-ons + meth on stock exhaust. As a daily driver, the drone that comes with a fully catless exhaust would drive me insane. Been there, done that on my 350z. Never again. I don't understand your charge pipe question. You can run a charge pipe designed for a BOV, or one that is designed for DVs. With all of the bolt-ons you listed with meth, you should be a shade under 420whp at 17 psi. At the higher boost levels, you can touch 450whp; however you will need to make sure you have enough fuel to support extremely high boost (19-20 psi).
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04-07-2011, 08:11 PM | #7 |
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Well this is what i want to be running, results seem good:
Cobb Stage 1 / Procede tune ( If i am not mistaken cobb is not a piggyback? ) Stett Charge pipe and intake AR 3" Downpipe Remus Race Exhaust / AMS exhaust Both sound angry =D Snow Performance Stage 2 Methanol Kit Rear Sways H&R Springs H&R Engine mounts? still searching. |
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04-07-2011, 08:16 PM | #8 | |
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Stett makes intakes? Just get a BMS DCI and call it a day. Best bang for the buck. I am not sure if the Snow Stage 2 includes the SnowPerformance SafeInjection failsafe, but if it doesn't, GET IT. You can skip all the other bells and whistles. Why do you need upgraded engine mounts? I don't even think they make them. There are guys pushing north of 500whp on upgraded turbos on the stock engine mounts without issue. Now the halfshafts and clutches, that's another story
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04-07-2011, 08:16 PM | #9 | |
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04-07-2011, 08:19 PM | #10 |
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04-07-2011, 08:22 PM | #11 | |
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SnowPerformance actually sells a boost bypass solenoid which is connected to the 5V output of a failsafe, fine tuned by the trigger delay as necessary. If meth is above the set threshold, it won't interfere. If meth flow is insufficient, my guess is the car will throw a nasty underboost code due to the bypass solenoid doing its thing. I would say that is sufficient as a failsafe for methanol injection. The only issue I'd be concerned about, albeit a minor one, is the fact a flash tune will not account for those split seconds methanol is not flowing.
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04-07-2011, 08:27 PM | #12 | |
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04-07-2011, 08:35 PM | #13 | |
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With your current system there is way to much of a delay after shifts sometimes for mt cars, despite timing and injection correction doing nothing different. |
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04-07-2011, 08:37 PM | #14 | |
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04-07-2011, 08:44 PM | #15 |
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I understand that there is always a work around for any limitation. Mechanically restricting or enabling the tune's boost control system based upon meth control electronic feedback is less desirable unless you prefer a non-integrated solution. But if you are looking for an integrated solution where the tune is controlling the methanol, monitoring the meth flow, and adjusting boost, fuel and timing accordingly, a reflash won't do. There are some advantages to reflashes. But integrated control of supplementary fuel systems isn't one of them.
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04-07-2011, 08:48 PM | #16 | |
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04-07-2011, 08:54 PM | #17 | |
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Monitoring meth flow? Once again, in its current form it does not do this. Flash users can buy add ons from companies to do this. Adjusting boost? Flashes adjust boost as well, you tune for meth Controlling fuel? lol, the stock ecu does that Controlling timing? Actually you run stock timing on meth, so once again the stock ecu does the work. |
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04-07-2011, 09:05 PM | #18 | |
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And as mentioned before, you can implement failsafes in any system. But were they differ from other approaches is on how well the failsafes are integrated into the engine management system as opposed to the methanol controller. The latter of which has little idea of what your engine is doing. Other than if boost pressure is above or below the hobbs switch threshold in many cases. Shiv |
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04-07-2011, 09:12 PM | #19 |
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To my understanding, how progressive meth works on either piggyback is if meth is flowing above the injection mode inputted, it transitions to a higher boost map.
e.g. JB4 if meth is =/>X, Y lbs of boost is added. Procede, if meth is =/>X, switches to map 2. If meth flow is reduced, the Procede targets boost somewhere in between map 1 and 2. I don't think there is any correlation with fuel pressure when it transitions between the two maps, is there? I don't like the idea of tuning for meth personally, but with a mechanical bypass with failsafe, it is possible to run it safely without issue. As I stated before, the whole point of a failsafe is to save you from failure, not having it intervene constantly. BTW Shiv, my car's been running lovely for the first time in months. I'm saving this map and firmware on a flash drive in case my car throws a titty attack on newer firmware updates
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04-07-2011, 09:15 PM | #20 | |
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As for running 2-3 more psi, well yea, you dial in a map that runs whatever boost you want. As for dialing in more timing, same thing applies, instead of worrying about misfire and offset limatations, you simply rewrite the timing tables in that map. As far as the failsafes, you mean the way your system has worked since you released it? lol. As for the new up coming system. Anyone who wishes to have that control, can simply buy the hit directly from HFS and call it a day by running the system as it was intended....of injector cycle. |
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04-07-2011, 09:17 PM | #21 | |
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04-07-2011, 09:19 PM | #22 | |
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