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Paint-fading (JB) due to bird-crap?
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04-01-2010, 03:20 PM | #1 |
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Paint-fading (JB) due to bird-crap?
I consider my detailing skills to be decent, but definitely not worthy of any before/after threads on here. Anyway, my car remains covered up for most of the week while it sits in a parking lot at Pepperdine University, but when it gets on the dirty side, I don't cover it because I've heard that it will rub the dust/dirt into the paint and cause little scratches.
Anyway, there were a few days early in the year when I parked under a tree without a cover for the shade factor, but it turned out that a few birds (that must have been HUGE) shat all over my car, notably on the hood. Now, I didn't get to go home to wash it off for a few days, and now there are a few spots on my car where the paint appears grey/faded/glossless where the bird crap had been. I'm obviously really pissed about this because (sadly) one of my biggest fears before enrolling at Pepperdine was the lack of sheltered parking. These spots won't be fixed by polishing or waxing, at least by hand since my Porter Cable hasn't arrived yet. The car has not been clayed since I bought it almost a year ago and it's certainly time to do so, although I'm not sure if this will help. Any suggestions? I can take pictures if necessary. I apologize for the noobish post.
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04-01-2010, 03:25 PM | #2 | |
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04-01-2010, 04:00 PM | #4 | |
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Anyone else?
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04-01-2010, 04:03 PM | #5 |
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Well that's fine as long as if fixes it. Should I be worried whether I do it on high or low speed with the PC? And which pad?
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04-01-2010, 05:13 PM | #6 |
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If you are lucky a PC will do it (depend on how deep the clear coat is etched). As with any time you are doing paint correction, start with minimal cut and work your way up to a higher cut compound until you remove the imperfection. I think with a PC I would just start on a higher speed and a fairly high cut pad and medium compound. Work up to your highest cut compound and pad you have if necessary. Follow up on the high cut with lower cut to remove any hazing you caused. Good luck and hopefully a PC and some decent compound is all you need to remove it!
That said, most bird crap etching will take at least a rotary buffer to remove. It is not uncommon to need to do a wet sand either. If you aren't able to get it out yourself with the PC, I would take it to a professional and have them remove it. Without experience with more powerful tools you could damage your paint more than help it with the tools/process necessary to fix the etch. |
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04-04-2010, 02:48 PM | #7 |
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Thanks man. If I can't get it out with the PC then I'll definitely take it to a pro. I don't want to mess up my paint.
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05-17-2010, 09:24 PM | #8 |
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I was searching the forum, looking for an answer to my bird crap problem.
I found a huge bird shit on my car yesterday and did not get a chance to clean it for 4 hrs. It was on the car less than 5 hrs because I did not notice it before leaving the house. I used my usual method of getting it wet and pulling it out with a wet paper towel(no wiping). It took about 10 minutes, stubborn POS. I noticed a dark spot on top of clear coat after but no scratch marks. It did not come off with mother's wax. I bought off the shelf Mcguires rubbing compound today that was labeled cleat coat safe. I was nervous about it at first and applied very little to small area. After 3 applications with terry towel and muscling it most of the residue came off. Clear coat seems to be fine. |
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05-18-2010, 09:44 AM | #9 |
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When we get it on the car (and wife doesn't tell me for a few days) I go clean it off. The next time I wash the car, I break out the Flex and a yellow pad with some Menzerna IP. Takes more time to get the tools out then to clean the spots. Then I just dab some Z2 over the area I polished and call it a day.
But then I have Arctic, not JB. . . |
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