[SMA335i]

I have a 09 Jet Black E92 with light swirls and "spiderweb" scratches from washing (very careful washing I might add.....). I had thought that a single step with 106FA would do the trick to remove these minor defects. After reading a few threads, I have been lead to believe that PO85RD might be needed afterwards or can 106FA finish down enough (without holograms) on BMW's jet black paint? Hopefully someone can shed some light on this matter...Thanks in advance.

[JohnL135I]

I used 106FA with a white pad and had great results. I also compared FA with 85rd with a blue pad and I liked the results of the FA better. This was on Jet Black.

I think with a white pad, FA will finish the way you want it to.

[SpecC]

on jet black, not vital but needed imo

[Detailers Domain]

I would have to say on a jet black PO85RD will finish out better.

[SMA335i]

Thank you all for your input....I think I will just stick with 106FA and do the "Zaino" routine for LSP.

[BayMoWe335]

I know this is old, but this is my exact situation (Jet Back w/ these products).

I have both 106 and 85rd and did some test panels.

My plan this weekend is:

1) 106fa w/ white pads
2) 85rd w/ black pads
3) Blackfire Wet Diamond on Blue pads
4) Natty Blue Carnuba.

[jopa489]

Originally Posted by BayMoWe335

I know this is old, but this is my exact situation (Jet Back w/ these products).

I have both 106 and 85rd and did some test panels.

My plan this weekend is:

1) 106fa w/ white pads
2) 85rd w/ black pads
3) Blackfire Wet Diamond on Blue pads
4) Natty Blue Carnuba.

Good plan, tried and true combination. On just about any other color, I'd say the 85RD is optional. But JB is very soft, and the 85RD really makes it pop. As long as your paint is in good enough condition where the 106FA will get the job done, you will be happy with the results.

[Detailed Image]

It's generally not necessary but it certainly can help.

[BayMoWe335]

Originally Posted by jopa489

Good plan, tried and true combination. On just about any other color, I'd say the 85RD is optional. But JB is very soft, and the 85RD really makes it pop. As long as your paint is in good enough condition where the 106FA will get the job done, you will be happy with the results.

Thank you sir. Will report back with results. I just have some water spots and very minor clear coat hairline scratches/swirls (the normal wear for a car nearing 2 years on the road). The car has never been polished, not even prepped by the dealer when it was new!

[BayMoWe335]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

It's generally not necessary but it certainly can help.

And thanks to Detailed Image for helping me get the right stuff.

[Detailers Domain]

not necessary at all to finish down with PO85RD if you are using 106

[BayMoWe335]

Originally Posted by phil@detailersdomain

not necessary at all to finish down with PO85RD if you are using 106

Any benefit at all, or just a waste of my time? Even your website mentions a 3 step process of 106 followed by 85rd.

Popular 3 Step Combinations:
Step 1: Menzerna Super Intensive Polish on orange pads
Step 2: Menzerna PO106FA on white pads
Step 3: Menzerna PO85RD on black pads

I was advised because my car is Jet Black and has a very soft clear, the 85rd would give me better results.

[autoaesthetica]

85RD's abrasive(if you can call it that) starts out much much smaller and is self refined to a very very fine finish. On solid colors as DD stated, 85RD is going to give (i would bet) a noticeable difference compared to stopping at just 106.

Since you should be progressing from the least aggressive method to start, you might want to try 85RD on white and see where it gets you. The white pads are only a 10-15 PPI difference to the black and really help the abrasives in menzerna breakdown and work very nicely.

Another option if time is tight would be to do 3 dots of 85RD and 1 dot of 106FA which is a common "cocktail" I like to use on ultra-finishing on soft dark colors.

If you are truly dealing with only light wash induced marring on your JB, disregard(respectfully) what the site says as its just a very general template for those who are unfamiliar. Concentrate on getting a good combination going that will yield the elimination of the marring without creating a ton of excess work for that really fine finishing work. Less time spent correcting is more time spent refining.

If need be you can do "spot" heavier polishing as you said you have some water spots and possibly some things left from the dealer not doing anything to it.

Above all else, see where a pass of 85RD on black pads(least aggressive first) gets you - to start it off before you even try 106. If the marks are light enough you may not even need it, or may only need it in a few areas. Hopefully this helps and makes some sense.

Mike

[BayMoWe335]

Originally Posted by autoaesthetica

85RD's abrasive(if you can call it that) starts out much much smaller and is self refined to a very very fine finish. On solid colors as DD stated, 85RD is going to give (i would bet) a noticeable difference compared to stopping at just 106.

Since you should be progressing from the least aggressive method to start, you might want to try 85RD on white and see where it gets you. The white pads are only a 10-15 PPI difference to the black and really help the abrasives in menzerna breakdown and work very nicely.

Another option if time is tight would be to do 3 dots of 85RD and 1 dot of 106FA which is a common "cocktail" I like to use on ultra-finishing on soft dark colors.

If you are truly dealing with only light wash induced marring on your JB, disregard(respectfully) what the site says as its just a very general template for those who are unfamiliar. Concentrate on getting a good combination going that will yield the elimination of the marring without creating a ton of excess work for that really fine finishing work. Less time spent correcting is more time spent refining.

If need be you can do "spot" heavier polishing as you said you have some water spots and possibly some things left from the dealer not doing anything to it.

Above all else, see where a pass of 85RD on black pads(least aggressive first) gets you - to start it off before you even try 106. If the marks are light enough you may not even need it, or may only need it in a few areas. Hopefully this helps and makes some sense.

Mike

Thanks for the sound advice. I will definitely try the black and 85rd first. The water spots do worry me a bit...perhaps I might even need 203 with an orange pad to get those out.

[MuttGrunt]

I'd also like to add that you can try 106 on black followed by 85 on blue. On ultra-soft paint, we often finish down with a blue pad and either 106, 85, or Ultrafina.

While you can read all you want online - test sections are what's going to truly make sure whatever combo you pick works well for your situation.

[White_335I]

Originally Posted by MuttGrunt

I'd also like to add that you can try 106 on black followed by 85 on blue. On ultra-soft paint, we often finish down with a blue pad and either 106, 85, or Ultrafina.

While you can read all you want online - test sections are what's going to truly make sure whatever combo you pick works well for your situation.

+1 to this. on the JB, try using 106 with a black pad. This will give you some correction and will finish down.

[EuroCar]

it can be different for everyone.. depending on the machine and speed used as well. For me, on a JB I prefer finishing with 85rd and a blue/black pad for that special gloss a JB can bring.

Just a teaser on a 328 done recently

[autoaesthetica]

I think solid colors like JB are one of colors where if the detailer has time(and the service calls for it), extra refining with 85RD can make get even more serious crispness from the paint that is already in flawless shape.

[tomob63]

Just bought a 2009 Jet Black E90 and I have a TON to learn.
Sure... I can go buy the 2-3 products on the DI site , but do I know the technique and have the tools to put it all together? No, not yet.
From here, need to know a fast track way of getting the proper tools and how to learn the technique with the correct pads and compounds.
Are there any How to's or videos anyone may have links to on buffing techniques?
I'm talking minor correction that will be incurred from weekly washing. Hairline scratches and swirls.

Thank you

[Envious Eric]

go talk to Ivan with Lustrdetailing and have him give you some hands on training/how-to

www.lustrdetail.com

you should just need powerfinish and 85rd once you have the major correction finished on your car if you maintain it. Mainly 85rd on a black pad, but if you need more powerfinish will remove a good amount of defects and finish off pretty well, but not good enough for me on JB. All JB cars whether its porsche, BMW, Mercedes, whatever gets finished off with 85rd