[ontopofm]

This happened since last night. Once the door is opened and this is what my car does even with music on or off. I have no idea what the hell is going on. I did a lil bit of research but people said to check all the connections which I already did. Ground connection is solid. Everything seems fine because I soldered and used heat shrink tubes at all connections. Please tell me what the hell is going on. Bad amp, burned fuse?

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by ontopofm

This happened since last night. Once the door is opened and this is what my car does even with music on or off.

Opening door turns on the accessory circuit and the amplifier.

Originally Posted by ontopofm

Everything seems fine because I soldered and used heat shrink tubes at all connections.

Not sure what that means about the connections being good, just pretty. Did it work for a while and then stop?

Originally Posted by ontopofm

Bad amp, burned fuse?

It could be a few things. It is NOT a blown fuse.

Could be a shorting speaker, could be a wrong input connection or a shorted wire to ground, could be a bad amp, could be a intermittently shorting VC on one speaker.

Disconnect the inputs form the amp, leave the RTO connected. Does the problem still happen?

If so, it's the amp.

If not, if it only happens with signal, it's a shorting speaker or a bad connection, or possibly a bad amp. Try reconnecting inputs one at a time and see which one it is.

If that doesn't do it, disconnect one speaker at a time til it stops.

[ontopofm]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

Opening door turns on the accessory circuit and the amplifier.



Not sure what that means about the connections being good, just pretty. Did it work for a while and then stop?

It has been working for a few months now.

It could be a few things. It is NOT a blown fuse.

Could be a shorting speaker, could be a wrong input connection or a shorted wire to ground, could be a bad amp, could be a intermittently shorting VC on one speaker.

Shorted wire means blown wire?

Disconnect the inputs form the amp, leave the RTO connected. Does the problem still happen?

Inputs from the aftermarker amp or stock amp?

If so, it's the amp.

If not, if it only happens with signal, it's a shorting speaker or a bad connection, or possibly a bad amp. Try reconnecting inputs one at a time and see which one it is.

If that doesn't do it, disconnect one speaker at a time til it stops.

Thanks VP

[ontopofm]

disconnected the RCA input from the aftermarket amp and it still does that

[VP Electricity]

OK, shorting wire means one side or another is touching either ground or the other wire. (Not sure hot to "blow" a wire... but I digress).

Disconnect speaker outputs at the amp 1 at a time, see which makes it stop. Pay attention, easy to lose track. I dis-and-re-connect each speaker channel until I find the bad actor.

If it will do it with any speaker, you have a bad amp, I fear.

[ontopofm]

It's a mono amp and it stops if either a + or - output is disconnected, so bad amp it is, I think it's still under warranty, not too bad i guess

[VP Electricity]

If the amp is mono, pulling the - or the positive is disconnecting all the speakers. Best test now is to hook up a test speaker in place of the others. Also test voltage at the remote wire with a meter, are if it is varying up and down...

[ontopofm]

the stock amp powers the speakers and the mono amp powers to subs, do I still need to perform this test because I can still play music just not getting any bass? thank you so much for going thru this w/ me

[Technic]

Originally Posted by ontopofm

the stock amp powers the speakers and the mono amp powers to subs, do I still need to perform this test because I can still play music just not getting any bass? thank you so much for going thru this w/ me

What aftermarket amp and what OEM system do you have?

Remove that aftermarket amp and let the OEM amp drive those SWS-8 instead... if you do not have any noise then it is the aftermarket amp the culprit.

[ontopofm]

I have alpine mrp-m500 and logic 7

[Technic]

Originally Posted by ontopofm

I have alpine mrp-m500 and logic 7

The Logic7 puts out some 16V max (70W max at 4 ohms) at the underseat woofers inputs, a level that this MRP-M500 is not clear that it can accept for the long term and at sustained high volume levels; its owner's manual does not specify the speaker max high level input, only that it accepts HU "high power and standard power levels".

An aftermarket HU "high power" is commonly 40W-50W max; the Logic7 OEM amp output is 70W max to each underseat woofer.

This is a problem that I've been noticing for some time, so I started recommending a passive or active LOC of at least 100W handling rating before any sub amp for Logic7 and Premium Audio (M3; at least 200W handling rating) systems for long term reliability.

[ontopofm]

Technic, with my current set up, which active LOC do you recommend? If you have time, please browse here and tell me me unit is suitable. Thank you

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewc...s_per_page=100

[Technic]

Originally Posted by ontopofm

Technic, with my current set up, which active LOC do you recommend? If you have time, please browse here and tell me me unit is suitable. Thank you

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewc...s_per_page=100

Because you want just an amp to drive your SWS-8, this passive LOC looks to be a great match to the OEM amp woofer outputs (85W max high level input, 4V max low level output): http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...te+LOC4.2.html

http://www.soundgate.com/upload//pro...ments/0364.pdf

This LOC actually costs around $35.00 so you could make an offer of $35.00 at Sonix or look for another store for cheaper prices...

You can go with an LC6i active LOC, but for your application it will be overkill.

[VP Electricity]

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Gate+LOCX.html

This one is better for your app...

[ontopofm]

VP, I ordered the LOC4.2 last night before you posted. Thanks though
I followed this thread for amp installation http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ight=subwoofer. With the Soundgate LOC, it will replace the Stinger, right?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by ontopofm

VP, I ordered the LOC4.2 last night before you posted. Thanks though
I followed this thread for amp installation http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ight=subwoofer. With the Soundgate LOC, it will replace the Stinger, right?

Yes...

[ontopofm]

thanks Technic

[VP Electricity]

Yeah. I have used both those LOCs. The 4.2 uses a resistor network in a way no one else I know of has ever used it. The X uses transformers in a more common approach. I do not know the input power rating of the 4.2 but if SG says it is OK, I guess it is. Never used either in this application.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

Yeah. I have used both those LOCs. The 4.2 uses a resistor network in a way no one else I know of has ever used it. The X uses transformers in a more common approach. I do not know the input power rating of the 4.2 but if SG says it is OK, I guess it is. Never used either in this application.

It is 85W max as the LOCX...

[ontopofm]

I just received the LOC and there are 8 wires. 4 are "USED WITH 2 CHANNEL PRODUCTS ONLY" and 4 are "NOT USED WITH 2 CHANNEL PRODUCTS". From the install pdf, it's said the 4 wires labeled "NOT USED..." are not used with the LOC4.2. This is to be connected to the Mono amp so Im confused. Thanks

[VP Electricity]

The manual is pretty clear to NOT use the wires labeled "NOT USED".

Looks like the 4.2 2-channela nd 4.4 4-channel LOCs use the same input harness. The NOT USED wires are connected to nothing.

Use the white-white/black and gray-gray/black.

It's all in here: http://soundgate.com/upload//productdocuments/0364.pdf

[ontopofm]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

The manual is pretty clear to NOT use the wires labeled "NOT USED".

Looks like the 4.2 2-channela nd 4.4 4-channel LOCs use the same input harness. The NOT USED wires are connected to nothing.

Use the white-white/black and gray-gray/black.

It's all in here: http://soundgate.com/upload//productdocuments/0364.pdf

thanks VP but those wires are labeled "NOT USED." Did you mean "not to use?"