[Bubbles]

Ran water wetter and 2:1 ratio of distilled water/BMW coolant. Temps never rose pass 207F and hovered around 200F. Oil temps are a different story.

Air intake temps are a problem in the high RPM range.

[leftcoastman]

So you flushed the system first? Don't you have to remove the IC to do that?

And what were your temps prior?

[O-cha]

207 is not hot.

[leftcoastman]

Originally Posted by O-cha

207 is not hot.

I think that's his point.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

So you flushed the system first? Don't you have to remove the IC to do that?

And what were your temps prior?

I used a vacuum extractor via the coolant fill reservoir. Added the above mentioned mix and ran the car with the heater on (10+ minutes) and cycled the fluid through the system to eliminate air bubbles. Prior to this flush, temps were +230-240F, so the mix alone reduced temps +25F degrees in ambient temps of 85F+. This kept the car in the "safe range" and power lasted much longer until, oil temps and air intake temps became an issue. Oil temps would jump with high rpms --> 280F+, so using 3rd gear instead of 2nd gear and 4th instead of 3rd (surprisingly did not negatively impact times as much as you would expect) would drop temps back below 250F very quickly.
Air intake temps would not drop off no matter how the car was driven (110+mph straights), so this may be the power limiting factor. Granted this occurred during 45-50 minute sessions chasing a Carrera S. FYI those NT-01s (255 all around) with some alignment tweaks transform the car's turn in. Great tires.

Originally Posted by O-cha

207 is not hot.

Yep, which is why the power loss is due to something else ---like air intake temps.

[O-cha]

Oh I thought you were LOOKING for a cheap solution and you were thinking that had not worked.

I'll try and remember to bring the computers next event and see what's up. But I'm guessing you're losing timing or boost and the question is why?

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by O-cha

Oh I thought you were LOOKING for a cheap solution and you were thinking that had not worked.

I'll try and remember to bring the computers next event and see what's up. But I'm guessing you're losing timing or boost and the question is why?

Sounds good.

[Rugs]

I see you were running a 2:1 ratio of distilled water/BMW coolant, but how many ounces (or how many bottles) of water wetter did you put in?

[M3to335]

I'll be the first to admit that I am a complete water wetter noob. Im a little confused, what was the exact amount of each? So you sucked out what was in the tank and left what else was in the system (or was it complete evacuated) then added back the water and the water wetter?

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by Rugs

I see you were running a 2:1 ratio of distilled water/BMW coolant, but how many ounces (or how many bottles) of water wetter did you put in?

Originally Posted by M3to335

I'll be the first to admit that I am a complete water wetter noob. Im a little confused, what was the exact amount of each? So you sucked out what was in the tank and left what else was in the system (or was it complete evacuated) then added back the water and the water wetter?

I took a gallon jug of distilled added a full bottle of water wetter and 20% coolant. Basically, I put the same amount of liquid in as I took out with the vacuum. Then I performed a coolant bleed prior to staring car.

Install the cap on the reservoir. Turn on the ignition, set the heat to maximum and the blower on the lowest setting. Begin by pressing the accelerator pedal to the floor for at least 10 seconds; be sure NOT to start the engine. Release the accelerator pedal and within a moment, the pump can be heard during activation. While the bleed procedure is being performed, inspect for leaks. The procedure can be repeated several times as needed, turning off the ignition off for 5 minutes between each bleed procedure.

[Hit_Apex]

On track what octane do you run? Also, do you drive with the heater on full? I might do a session in the 335i this Friday and want to be prepared. I have waterwetter in it but I know it's not effective when used with coolant. Basically want to take some BT logs at different boost settings (JB3 maps) running 100 oct. If it behaves in the first session I might drive it more.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by Hit_Apex

On track what octane do you run? Also, do you drive with the heater on full? I might do a session in the 335i this Friday and want to be prepared. I have waterwetter in it but I know it's not effective when used with coolant. Basically want to take some BT logs at different boost settings (JB3 maps) running 100 oct. If it behaves in the first session I might drive it more.

I split the tank with either 100 octane or 98 octane whatever is available. I find the car maintains power longer with the 50/50 split especially as ambient temps begin to rise (anything more than 50% provides no benefit to me). I also run the heater on low and mid/high towards the tail end of my sessions. I hate having to do that, but I find it keeps the car cooler. It is a bit ridiculous that I run the heater in mid 80 degree temps.

[M3to335]

Bubbles, check your PM's

Im still lost as to what you said about evacuating it. If you just suck out the resevoir that leaves everything else in the system. I'm assuming there's a drain somewhere on the radiator and you let it out there as well?

[leftcoastman]

A couple more notes for you guys:

1) I have tried to add WW to the existing coolant mix and recorded zero change in temps on track. WW isn't supposed to change bulk temps anyways, only localized temps.

2) Yes, you can drain the coolant. The plug is under the IC, so you have to remove that first.

[M3to335]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

A couple more notes for you guys:

1) I have tried to add WW to the existing coolant mix and recorded zero change in temps on track. WW isn't supposed to change bulk temps anyways, only localized temps.

2) Yes, you can drain the coolant. The plug is under the IC, so you have to remove that first.

Seriously? What a pain to drain that thing. Im interseted to hear what Bubbles responds with in regards to the other questions.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by M3to335

Bubbles, check your PM's

Im still lost as to what you said about evacuating it. If you just suck out the resevoir that leaves everything else in the system. I'm assuming there's a drain somewhere on the radiator and you let it out there as well?

I have the item pictured below and with it I can pull at least a gallon of coolant mix from the reservoir. I ran the tube deep through the reservoir opening, I can't remember, but I pulled at least a gallon of the coolant mix out with ease. You don't need to flush the entire system to see temp improvements.

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

A couple more notes for you guys:

1) I have tried to add WW to the existing coolant mix and recorded zero change in temps on track. WW isn't supposed to change bulk temps anyways, only localized temps.

2) Yes, you can drain the coolant. The plug is under the IC, so you have to remove that first.

LCM is correct adding water water without changing the coolant mix will do little to improve temps.

[M3to335]

I just looked and there's no way to run the tube any deeper than the bottom of the reservoir tank. There are 2 tight bends in the pipe immediately under the tank. So unless it pulls a vacuum on the system, pulling everything against gravity, the entire radiator and lines are still full of coolant. Would you agree?

Or does that pump actually create a vacuum and pull some out of the system as well? I should be able to grab one of those evacuator pumps from work.

Originally Posted by Bubbles

I have the item pictured below and with it I can pull at least a gallon of coolant mix from the reservoir. I ran the tube deep through the reservoir opening, I can't remember, but I pulled at least a gallon of the coolant mix out with ease. You don't need to flush the entire system to see temp improvements.





LCM is correct adding water water without changing the coolant mix will do little to improve temps.

[leftcoastman]

The coolant capacity is only 8.5 litres. If you suck out a gallon, you're almost halfway there.

[M3to335]

That sound more reasonable. Its odd that running THAT much coolant vs the wetter and distilled water had a good result.

[leftcoastman]

No, let's make for simple math and assume the whole system is 2 gallons and he sucked out half the stock coolant mix. (system is actually 2.25 gallons, but math gets harder)

So stock coolant mix is 50/50 (I think). Bottle of WW is 12 oz, roughly 10% of a gallon.

He then sucks out a gallon of that stock mix and replaces it with a 70% water / 20% coolant / 10% WW Bubbles-Special-Dinan-is-my-hero-despite-making-me-limp mix.

That gives him a final 60% water / 35% coolant / 5% WW mix.

If I was doing it, I'd suck the gallon of stock mix out, add the WW and top it off with distilled water.

My LCM-Voodoo-Dinan-Killer-Mix would give you 70% water / 25% coolant / 5% WW. So not only would I devour the Dinan guy on the straights, I would also go longer before going limp!

[M3to335]

+1, thats what Im going to do. Replace everything sucked out with WW and Distilled H20. Id like to replace EVERYTHING with distilled H20 and WW but honestly Im not patient enough to pull the IC out to get to the fricken drain plug. That's rediculous if you ask me.

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

No, let's make for simple math and assume the whole system is 2 gallons and he sucked out half the stock coolant mix. (system is actually 2.25 gallons, but math gets harder)

So stock coolant mix is 50/50 (I think). Bottle of WW is 12 oz, roughly 10% of a gallon.

He then sucks out a gallon of that stock mix and replaces it with a 70% water / 20% coolant / 10% WW Bubbles-Special-Dinan-is-my-hero-despite-making-me-limp mix.

That gives him a final 60% water / 35% coolant / 5% WW mix.

If I was doing it, I'd suck the gallon of stock mix out, add the WW and top it off with distilled water.

My LCM-Voodoo-Dinan-Killer-Mix would give you 70% water / 25% coolant / 5% WW. So not only would I devour the Dinan guy on the straights, I would also go longer before going limp!

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

No, let's make for simple math and assume the whole system is 2 gallons and he sucked out half the stock coolant mix. (system is actually 2.25 gallons, but math gets harder)

So stock coolant mix is 50/50 (I think). Bottle of WW is 12 oz, roughly 10% of a gallon.

He then sucks out a gallon of that stock mix and replaces it with a 70% water / 20% coolant / 10% WW Bubbles-Special-Dinan-is-my-hero-despite-making-me-limp mix.

That gives him a final 60% water / 35% coolant / 5% WW mix.

If I was doing it, I'd suck the gallon of stock mix out, add the WW and top it off with distilled water.

My LCM-Voodoo-Dinan-Killer-Mix would give you 70% water / 25% coolant / 5% WW. So not only would I devour the Dinan guy on the straights, I would also go longer before going limp!

LCM has math skills, who knew? I actually pulled close to a gallon and half. I pulled out about a half gallon after doing the first mix and replaced it with straight distilled water.

I was concerned with pulling too much fluid out at once and causing the pump to seize. So I erred on the side of caution.

When I had the turbos replaced, I'm convinced the tech refilled the I/C with nearly straight coolant. So I suppose diluting with straight distill water won't hurt if your live in a mild climate.

Originally Posted by M3to335

+1, thats what Im going to do. Replace everything sucked out with WW and Distilled H20. Id like to replace EVERYTHING with distilled H20 and WW but honestly Im not patient enough to pull the IC out to get to the fricken drain plug. That's rediculous if you ask me.

I can pull almost all the fluid from the I/C, but I'd rather keep the oil where it is.