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      08-18-2008, 04:56 AM   #1
esscolab
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Oil Change

My garage wanted to charge £160 for oil change with new oil filter. I thought I would do it myself so was in for a big shock when I went to pay for the synthetic oil. Needed 6 litres costing around £60!! for the 0W30 fully synthetic stuff. The oil filter costs around £8 and comes with all the fittings. Bought a pair of ramps for £25 and an oil tray for £3.50. So all in all it comes to around £100, so still cheaper than the garage and at least peace of mind you know it's really been done.

Just need to find the time now to actually do it.

Anyone else done their own oil change ?
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      08-30-2008, 06:38 PM   #2
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Not done oil change yet. I have done 3500 miles. Out of interest has your mileage for when you need a service gone down from its original mileage which i think was 15k?
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      08-30-2008, 07:09 PM   #3
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What's your suggestion for first change? Andy Flintoff? (I can see the Americans struggling with that one). Seriously, I was thinking around now - which is 8000 miles for me. There's that quite useful video on YouTube about changing a 135's oil so I might copy you essco.
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      08-30-2008, 07:31 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeDoc? View Post
There's that quite useful video on YouTube about changing a 135's oil so I might copy you essco.
link?
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      08-31-2008, 02:10 AM   #5
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Funny you mention it, I am about to attempt it this morning. I too watched that U tube video. I'll let you know how I got on.

Mines done 5,600 miles now. Using the 0W30 Oil as that's my local BMW garage uses. I think the 5W30 that's recommended in the states is for use in colder climates.
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      08-31-2008, 05:32 AM   #6
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lanny:


This fella's done a few DIY vids in the DIY section of this forum - nice guy!
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      08-31-2008, 11:59 AM   #7
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Decided to put it off until I can get another jack. Attempted to jack up one side but the opposite front wheel was protesting taking on the strain. A mate is dropping round his jack next week so will do both sides at the same time.

For anyone wanting to do this, it's advisable to jack up both sides of the car.

You live and learn..............
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      08-31-2008, 12:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esscolab View Post
Decided to put it off until I can get another jack. Attempted to jack up one side but the opposite front wheel was protesting taking on the strain. A mate is dropping round his jack next week so will do both sides at the same time.

For anyone wanting to do this, it's advisable to jack up both sides of the car.

You live and learn..............
anyone else have this experience? I been working on cars 15 years and never heard of that in my life. You can jack up just one side of the car..
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      08-31-2008, 08:44 PM   #9
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Hello from Alabama! There is a jack pad under the front of the car. It is right in front of the little door you open to get to the drain plug. It is a rubber pad mounted on the front crossmember. They left a round hole in the undertray so you can see it.
I had to drive the front wheels onto a couple boards to get enough room for my jack.
Ramps are probably easier and safer than two jacks.
After you remove the filter housing, the filter just pulls off.
When you take out the drain plug, oil will shoot out and go on top of the undertray if you do not deflect it down.
I did my 1st change at 1500 miles with designer oil.
I hope this helps in some small way.
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      09-01-2008, 03:29 AM   #10
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I had to cut a small block of wood to fit into the jack pad socket under the passenger door so that the jack didn't damage the jack socket. Once I jacked up the car about a foot the opposite wheel was making strange creaking sounds. I decided that I'd prefer to jack up both sides which is a purely a personal choice. I am sure you can jack the car up without any issues,

I too had to drive the front wheels onto boards to give clearance for the hydraulic jack to go underneath.

I'll attempt the oil change next weekend now.
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      09-01-2008, 04:56 AM   #11
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I read somewhere that according to a BMW tech, at the factory they add something to the oil to break the engine in going an early oil change obviously removes the additive that protects the engine until the 1st service
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      09-01-2008, 06:22 AM   #12
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Whiteone, That sounds like what i'm after, I'll check that out as it sounds like the answer!
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      09-01-2008, 08:44 AM   #13
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I read somewhere that according to a BMW tech, at the factory they add something to the oil to break the engine in going an early oil change obviously removes the additive that protects the engine until the 1st service
Thats not the case on the diesels atleast. Asked the dealer about the oil change, and they would be happy to do it anytime.
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      09-01-2008, 09:54 AM   #14
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Please just get yourself some jackstands, you should never get under a car held up by jacks, I'm sure we have all gotten under cars with jacks, I know I have, but that was when I was younger and stupider
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      09-01-2008, 09:59 AM   #15
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I have a couple of ramps that the car won't go up as the front spoiler hits it. I am going to jack it up then shove these underneath with wooden boards on top. The plan is, if the jacks fail (both), then the stands will take the strain and I won't be made into a human pancake.

If you don't hear from me next week, you'll know the whole thing failed and I should have listened to the advice on here.
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      09-01-2008, 10:40 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endre View Post
Thats not the case on the diesels atleast. Asked the dealer about the oil change, and they would be happy to do it anytime.

They would say that though wouldn't they, all money to them.
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      09-01-2008, 06:54 PM   #17
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I folded a shop rag and placed it on top of each jack stand before I lowered the car onto them. Not a scratch.
Using boards to get on ramps sounds like the safest method.
If you furnish the oil and filter, how much would the local oil change place charge to do it for you?(a very safe way to do it)
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      09-02-2008, 05:06 AM   #18
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What's the justification for the early oil change?

If you are doing 99% urban / city driving with loads of small journeys I can kinda understand, but otherwise I don't get it?
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      09-02-2008, 05:42 AM   #19
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In all honesty, peace of mind that it's done, at least that's my excuse.
You can read articles that some people recommend you do it at 1200, 5000 miles, others at 12000. I've read t reports that metal deposits from the manufacture process can remain in the oil on new engines. Probably more scare stories than reality. I seem to remember on the M3 it was compulsory to do an oil change at 5000 miles for some reason.

Without the traditional dip-stick approach, you cannot see the state/colour of the oil any more. That with the added fact that it's useful to know how to change the oil yourself is a bonus.

These are my reasons, probably complete crap to most ppl.

Anyone care to comment on their reasons ?

Essco
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      09-02-2008, 09:13 AM   #20
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Just checked my oil level and it's halfway at 5000 miles, so looks like it will need a drink soon!
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      09-02-2008, 09:24 AM   #21
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If you are getting your car officially dealer stamped in your service book for each oil change, is there a spot for them to sign for these intermittent oil changes in between major ones? Or are the more often oil changes "under the table" and not recorded by the dealer if they do it?
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      09-02-2008, 12:16 PM   #22
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Direct injection is very hard on oil.(gas gets in the oil)
Turbochargers are very hard on oil.(excessive heat)
Silica is used in the casting process.(releases into oil)
BMW doesn't have a special oil for the N54 engine.(same old oil)
So owners change their oil more often to protect it.
There are oils that work well with turbos and DI.(BITOG.COM)
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