[M3to335]

The service guys tell me they wont replace the pads under warranty until it's basically on the LIGHT (~2.5mm). Off the top of my head I cant remember how many mm they had brand new, but I do know they have 8mm left on the front and 6mm left on the rears. Should I swap them out before the next track day or just roll with it?

Thanks

[leftcoastman]

I believe it's 16mm new. You'll work the fronts more than the rears, if you turn off DTC/DSC/etc.

I can't believe you still run street pads on the track, though. Two laps and my street pads are absolutely worthless.

[satakal]

personal experience says that you can get 2 track days out of your pads if the iDrive says they are good for only 3000 miles.

I foolishly did 2 days at button willow with the iDrive telling me there were just a few 1000 miles left in the pads. At some point on the first day, the car said it was time to repleace the pads. The word "brake" highlighted in yellow on the dash. Last session of the last day, watch the video in high quality. The yellow light goes to red. And, the iDrive informs that there is pretty much no pad left.

The tech that changed the pads and rotors said there was basically zero pad left.

I think it was the rear pads that were at zero and the fronts still had a bit left. The performance at this amount of wear was acceptable.

I think you will be fine for 1 or even 2 track days with that amount of pad.

[M3to335]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

I believe it's 16mm new. You'll work the fronts more than the rears, if you turn off DTC/DSC/etc.

I can't believe you still run street pads on the track, though. Two laps and my street pads are absolutely worthless.

16mm sounds like quite a bit more than what I have I doubt two laps on any track would make your stock pads worthless. I run the car up to 140-145mph into hard braking 2x on every lap! Knock on wood, I've never had any issues with fade and so forth. Hell, they have 8900mi and 8 track days on them. Granted 7 of those were only 1 day events. According to others, the track I frequent is rather kind to brakes so that may be some of the reason.

Originally Posted by satakal

personal experience says that you can get 2 track days out of your pads if the iDrive says they are good for only 3000 miles.

I foolishly did 2 days at button willow with the iDrive telling me there were just a few 1000 miles left in the pads. At some point on the first day, the car said it was time to repleace the pads. The word "brake" highlighted in yellow on the dash. Last session of the last day, watch the video in high quality. The yellow light goes to red. And, the iDrive informs that there is pretty much no pad left.

The tech that changed the pads and rotors said there was basically zero pad left.

I think it was the rear pads that were at zero and the fronts still had a bit left. The performance at this amount of wear was acceptable.

I think you will be fine for 1 or even 2 track days with that amount of pad.

Sounds good to me. I'd love to just swap them now but cant justify paying out of pocket because they want me to wait. Do either of you have a good direct replacement pad recommendation that wont eat away at my rotors? It would also be nice if they didnt squeel when the wife was in the car. Granted, I could swap them every time I go to the track. Hell, Im already setting up a camera, taping up the front end, installing spacers, throwing a set of race rubber in the trunk and doing a swap out when I get there!

[jbass524]

M3to335, If you're a newish driver you can probably be real effective with the stock brakes. Changing pads would be great. I'm still running on the stocks and made it to the A group with BMWCCA.

Here's the breakdown of my experience with the same situation you're in:
Went to Thunderhill with 8mm on the front and 7mm on the back. Ambient temp was 65 and had 5 sessions. Ran consistent 2:15 speed and 2:15s when laps were clear.

I know that's not real fast but you still have to be aggressive with the brakes at that speed. I just watched them closely all day and wasn't hard on them when I didn't have to be, i.e.: in traffic.

Per leftcoastman: The more you use the DSC and DTC the more the rears wear. Turn it all off if you're comfortable.

At the end of the day I had about 3mm on both.

Took it into the dealer for another issue and they replaced the pads at 2.6mm and 2.8mm. If you've got a good dealer I would stay with the all stock until you absolutely have to go with track pads. Search other threads for why. Good Luck and just watch them.

[LOLrance]

on my girlfriends e90, she had about 5mm left and of course the dealership said it was good for another 6000+ miles before they had to be replaced and wouldn't replace it. She got about 3 sessions before the service light came on because "brake pads are worn to a minimum".

[M3to335]

Originally Posted by jbass524

M3to335, If you're a newish driver you can probably be real effective with the stock brakes. Changing pads would be great. I'm still running on the stocks and made it to the A group with BMWCCA.

Here's the breakdown of my experience with the same situation you're in:
Went to Thunderhill with 8mm on the front and 7mm on the back. Ambient temp was 65 and had 5 sessions. Ran consistent 2:15 speed and 2:15s when laps were clear.

I know that's not real fast but you still have to be aggressive with the brakes at that speed. I just watched them closely all day and wasn't hard on them when I didn't have to be, i.e.: in traffic.

Per leftcoastman: The more you use the DSC and DTC the more the rears wear. Turn it all off if you're comfortable.

At the end of the day I had about 3mm on both.

Took it into the dealer for another issue and they replaced the pads at 2.6mm and 2.8mm. If you've got a good dealer I would stay with the all stock until you absolutely have to go with track pads. Search other threads for why. Good Luck and just watch them.

Im not quite sure what group A means since they are called different names over here. Depending on the club I run with, the groups are different. Some only have 3 levels, others 4. Regardless, Im running advanced or solo right now. Thats neither here nor there. Brakes at this point would make sense to upgrade I suppose.

As far as stability or traction control, I've always hit the button once. Out of the whole 3.27mi track, it only intervenes powering out of T-1 about one out of 15 times. I suppose no harm in turning it completely off

Originally Posted by l4wr3nc3

on my girlfriends e90, she had about 5mm left and of course the dealership said it was good for another 6000+ miles before they had to be replaced and wouldn't replace it. She got about 3 sessions before the service light came on because "brake pads are worn to a minimum".

Typical huh

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by M3to335

According to others, the track I frequent is rather kind to brakes so that may be some of the reason.

WOW~!!!!!


I can't get more than 1 day out of stock pads if I take it easy in the afternoon sessions.

Cool Carbon pads work great.

[Orb]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

WOW~!!!!!


I can't get more than 1 day out of stock pads if I take it easy in the afternoon sessions.

Cool Carbon pads work great.

You should get a full day and bit more out of the pads. They grip like hell when they are warmed up and will max out any street tire. Now you have to watch you don't start melting the calliper dust seals as I have done as your going to brake a lot harder now.

Orb

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by Orb

You should get a full day and bit more out of the pads. They grip like hell when they are warmed up and will max out any street tire. Now you have to watch you don't start melting the calliper dust seals as I have as your going to brake a lot harder now.

Orb

Right on, Orb!

Thanks for the tip and the pad suggestion, the pads delivered as promised.

I'm surprised more people don't run these pads at such a great price/performance point. The rears pads held up great with DTC on, no fade and about 1/3 of the rears and 50% of the front pads remain. When cold these pads are ok, but once warm the pads do a great job.

I'm throwing on some R888's so I'll keep an eye on the dust shields.

[M3to335]

Where did you guys buy those pads from?
Do you run them everyday, or swap for events?

[O-cha]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

I'm throwing on some R888's so I'll keep an eye on the dust shields.

He's talking about the rubber seal that protects the piston if you didn't realize.

And they are going to vaporize fairly quickly if they haven't already. But you know where to go to when that happens

BTW you been changing the pads yourself?



I've got lots of video from today, now if only I could get a good editor that does MP4 <_<


Almost ate shit here, stupid AMG black

[nicknaz]

If I were in your shoes I would try to hammer on the brakes to get them down to the level where dealer would replace them.

[M3to335]

Wow, these are $220 for a set of pads. I've only bought low dust pads in the past and had no idea how much these suckers were.

Nick, I think it would be pretty hard to wear down another 3~4mm on these unless I drove around everywhere slamming on the brakes Dont know if the other people on the road would appreciate that.

[O-cha]

Originally Posted by M3to335

Wow, these are $220 for a set of pads. I've only bought low dust pads in the past and had no idea how much these suckers were.

Nick, I think it would be pretty hard to wear down another 3~4mm on these unless I drove around everywhere slamming on the brakes Dont know if the other people on the road would appreciate that.

You would wear them faster if you just lightly dragged them actually, probably your rotors too though.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by M3to335

Where did you guys buy those pads from?
Do you run them everyday, or swap for events?

I bought the pads from bavarian auto (www.bavauto.com). They priced matched another distributor and shipped the same day. I swapped out the pads a week before the event. The pads are quiet and can be used for daily driving, but they really perform when they heat up. After a full track day, my rotors are still in great shape despite repeated 140-60mph braking and 125mph-40mph braking areas. These pads work period.

Originally Posted by O-cha

He's talking about the rubber seal that protects the piston if you didn't realize.

And they are going to vaporize fairly quickly if they haven't already. But you know where to go to when that happens

BTW you been changing the pads yourself?

I am, BTW your M seems dialed in suspension wise, nice work. BTW those Kumhos corded in the second to last session. I watched the video, where is the AMG?

[M3to335]

I'm assuming throwing just the fronts on would throw off the balance.

[M3to335]

Anyone run Performance Friction pads? Hell, do they even MAKE those for our cars yet?

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by M3to335

I'm assuming throwing just the fronts on would throw off the balance.

Why, for a few extra bucks you'll enjoy more balance.

[O-cha]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

I am, BTW your M seems dialed in suspension wise, nice work. BTW those Kumhos corded in the second to last session. I watched the video, where is the AMG?

This one has more of before that happened, you can see him ALL OVER the fucking track holding me up BIG TIME. I have some other footage I haven't uploaded yet too. I saw him again later and he pulled the same shit, so I went to do the same thing but misjudged and almost actually hit him, then again after I hung back and went around the corner normal only to see him going so dam slow on the exit I had to almost drive off to keep from hitting him. (at that point I just went in and they black flagged him for being a Fing douch)

I should also point out that it shows why I had to take such a fucking tight line, the bastard kept in the gas after pointing me by and didn't let me back on line. WTF is peoples problems when it comes to passing? I mean it risks your own car WAY more then most people realize (if you're right behind someone who's not letting you pass and then they spin you're both fucked)

And yea what I hadn't been thinking about was camber, they were wearing on the sidewalls for sure that day, and to be doing it at that high PSI you definitely need more camber. Maybe it got Fed up some how? Pull the pins and max it out (you wont be able to get too much with the factory strut tops) at an alignment place.

Either that or you'll have to adjust your driving styles, maybe even still have to to not kill your sidewalls.



Heres another of an s2000 to highlight the previous point.

[M3to335]

O-cha...

Eek, there is an enormous lack of run-off on that track. Also, its pretty narrow...where do you politely pass?

[O-cha]

Originally Posted by M3to335

O-cha...

Eek, there is an enormous lack of run-off on that track. Also, its pretty narrow...where do you politely pass?

Straights or the wider bends, it's not that narrow? Maybe the video is throwing you off? I'd say it's pretty standard. And there are runoffs in the critical spots, though there are a few places it could really use some but that would eat into the infield, which you need for spectators.