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      06-13-2020, 12:18 AM   #1
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Drilled/slotted rotor brake set recommendations

Im dying to replace my M-Sport brakes setup, im getting a horribleeeee squeak as soon as i hit the brakes. Ive brought it to three different dealerships and they have all given me different excuses for why they cant fix it. Frankly, im over it and would rather put on a good replacement set. Im not going the brembo route, would like to keep costs low. Id love some recommendations!!! I found these, wasnt sure if they are worth putting on. Its a daily driver, judt want the squeaking to endddddd
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      06-13-2020, 02:15 AM   #2
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grease the pads where you have metal to metal contact (obviously not where it contacts the rotor)
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      06-13-2020, 07:37 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chowser51 View Post
grease the pads where you have metal to metal contact (obviously not where it contacts the rotor)
I would definitely love to save money already. I finally lost it on the third dealership. They told me the pads looked fine but the rotors are kinda at the end. They weren't pitching their rotors, in fact she even told me aftermarket are prefect cause they aren't covered with the extended warranty. I will not resurface the rotors. Is changing the pads worth it? Ive also been told hard vs. cold pads are night and day. Thsnk you!
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      06-13-2020, 09:33 AM   #4
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FWIW, I tried a set of PowerStop pads and they squeaked a lot. Not sure if they're the same pads that come with the set you posted pics of though. You could always piecemeal a set. It's not uncommon to find posts for rotors in the classifieds here. Pair them with quality pads that are low-noise and you'll be set.
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      06-13-2020, 09:37 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
FWIW, I tried a set of PowerStop pads and they squeaked a lot. Not sure if they're the same pads that come with the set you posted pics of though. You could always piecemeal a set. It's not uncommon to find posts for rotors in the classifieds here. Pair them with quality pads that are low-noise and you'll be set.
Ive also heard you could sandpaper the pads n rotor really light to scuff them up?
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      06-13-2020, 11:03 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a404freedom View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
FWIW, I tried a set of PowerStop pads and they squeaked a lot. Not sure if they're the same pads that come with the set you posted pics of though. You could always piecemeal a set. It's not uncommon to find posts for rotors in the classifieds here. Pair them with quality pads that are low-noise and you'll be set.
Ive also heard you could sandpaper the pads n rotor really light to scuff them up?
How many miles do you have and are these the original pads and rotors?

Mechanics tick me off when they give opinions rather than measurements. If some says you need new rotors ask them what your rotors measured. The wear material on BMW rotors is 1.6mm. No one can eyeball that and tell you anything.

Don't fall for the "feel the ridge at the edge of the rotor" nonsense. Meaningless! Tactic used to sell new rotors! The procedure is to measure rotor thickness with a millimeter caliper at 8 random spots on the wear surface and take the lowest number. Obviously if the lowest number is way different then the caliper was probably held at an angle or something that provided an incorrect measurement. If a mechanic is showing you 8 thickness measurements of your rotor then he is a keeper who you can trust!

Squeaks are most commonly caused by poorly greased brakes. The brake grease is an integral component in the brake system. The procedure is in Bentley manual and on newtis website. See photo.

If you are going to start replacing components then:

Brake pads are most critical component. Get Hawk 5.0. Best street pads by far. Best bite, instant warm up and light dust that washes right off. See photo for part numbers. If you have a 435i with blue M Sport brakes then you have 370mm front and 345mm rear brakes.

Avoid slotted or dimpled rotors. They are noisy and provide little performance value.

Plain rotors are fine for the street. If you want a rotor upgrade get crossdrilled. (Not crossdrilled and slotted. Avoid slotted for street use!)

Crossdrilled rotors provide the best bite by far and the best performance in the rain because water can't trap between rotor and pad surfaces. There is a reason why Porsche, Mercedes and McLaren all install crossdrilled rotors on their street performance cars.

If you can only afford to upgrade one axle then put crossdrilled rotors on the front which do the most work. The rear helps too, if you can afford it.

Plain rotors- get Zimmermann. Same high quality as BMW but also zinc coated against rust, and much less expensive.

ZIMMERMANN
Front 370mm plain 2-piece
150.2911.32
Upgraded Front 370mm crossdrilled
150.2911.52
(Recently ~$113 each)

Rear 345mm plain 2-piece
with 185mm handbrake
150.2919.32
With older 160mm small hat handbrake
150.2921.20
See photo for handbrake sizes. You must install a rear rotor that matches the size of handbrake that came with the car from the factory.

STOPTECH CROSSDRILLED
StopTech are a more expensive crossdrilled option because they are designed with specific left/right sides for best vane cooling. Not sure how much it really matters for daily street performance over Zimmermanns but they look nice. StopTech have black rotor hats. $325/pair is an excellent price

Front 370mm Crossdrilled
128.34144L
128.34144R

Rear 345mm Crossdrilled with 185mm handbrake
128.34147L
128.34147R

Ultimate front rotors are StopTech 370mm full floating crossdrilled with rust coating part# 81.B39.9941

Upgrade your rubber brake hoses to stainless steel brake lines for much more solid brake pedal feel. StopTech is ~$107/ set of four

Hope this helps!
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      06-13-2020, 12:48 PM   #7
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If you want cross drilled rotor there a cheaper option than stop tech. R1Concept nLine rotor. They are sponsor here.

There rotor is not that bad...you can actually change your rotor every time you change your pad.
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      06-13-2020, 01:17 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
If you want cross drilled rotor there a cheaper option than stop tech. R1Concept nLine rotor. They are sponsor here.

There rotor is not that bad...you can actually change your rotor every time you change your pad.
IMO you aren't comparing apples to apples when you attempt to compare R1 rotors to StopTech rotors. R1 appear to be a cheap one-piece rotor, which is lower quality than stock rotors. Even plain BMW M Sport rotors are two piece with aluminum hats.

Zimmermann drilled is a high quality 2-piece German rotor with zinc coating, so its higher quality than BMW stock rotors. StopTech is at a higher lever than that, with 2-piece and a true engineered left/right airflow design.
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      06-13-2020, 07:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
IMO you aren't comparing apples to apples when you attempt to compare R1 rotors to StopTech rotors. R1 appear to be a cheap one-piece rotor, which is lower quality than stock rotors. Even plain BMW M Sport rotors are two piece with aluminum hats.

Zimmermann drilled is a high quality 2-piece German rotor with zinc coating, so its higher quality than BMW stock rotors. StopTech is at a higher lever than that, with 2-piece and a true engineered left/right airflow design.
I did say they are cheap

Okay DD.... they not going to disintegrate on you. Replace together with pad... brand new everytime
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      06-13-2020, 10:02 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
IMO you aren't comparing apples to apples when you attempt to compare R1 rotors to StopTech rotors. R1 appear to be a cheap one-piece rotor, which is lower quality than stock rotors. Even plain BMW M Sport rotors are two piece with aluminum hats.

Zimmermann drilled is a high quality 2-piece German rotor with zinc coating, so its higher quality than BMW stock rotors. StopTech is at a higher lever than that, with 2-piece and a true engineered left/right airflow design.
I did say they are cheap

Okay DD.... they not going to disintegrate on you. Replace together with pad... brand new everytime
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by a404freedom View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
FWIW, I tried a set of PowerStop pads and they squeaked a lot. Not sure if they're the same pads that come with the set you posted pics of though. You could always piecemeal a set. It's not uncommon to find posts for rotors in the classifieds here. Pair them with quality pads that are low-noise and you'll be set.
Ive also heard you could sandpaper the pads n rotor really light to scuff them up?
How many miles do you have and are these the original pads and rotors?

Mechanics tick me off when they give opinions rather than measurements. If some says you need new rotors ask them what your rotors measured. The wear material on BMW rotors is 1.6mm. No one can eyeball that and tell you anything.

Don't fall for the "feel the ridge at the edge of the rotor" nonsense. Meaningless! Tactic used to sell new rotors! The procedure is to measure rotor thickness with a millimeter caliper at 8 random spots on the wear surface and take the lowest number. Obviously if the lowest number is way different then the caliper was probably held at an angle or something that provided an incorrect measurement. If a mechanic is showing you 8 thickness measurements of your rotor then he is a keeper who you can trust!

Squeaks are most commonly caused by poorly greased brakes. The brake grease is an integral component in the brake system. The procedure is in Bentley manual and on newtis website. See photo.

If you are going to start replacing components then:

Brake pads are most critical component. Get Hawk 5.0. Best street pads by far. Best bite, instant warm up and light dust that washes right off. See photo for part numbers. If you have a 435i with blue M Sport brakes then you have 370mm front and 345mm rear brakes.

Avoid slotted or dimpled rotors. They are noisy and provide little performance value.

Plain rotors are fine for the street. If you want a rotor upgrade get crossdrilled. (Not crossdrilled and slotted. Avoid slotted for street use!)

Crossdrilled rotors provide the best bite by far and the best performance in the rain because water can't trap between rotor and pad surfaces. There is a reason why Porsche, Mercedes and McLaren all install crossdrilled rotors on their street performance cars.

If you can only afford to upgrade one axle then put crossdrilled rotors on the front which do the most work. The rear helps too, if you can afford it.

Plain rotors- get Zimmermann. Same high quality as BMW but also zinc coated against rust, and much less expensive.

ZIMMERMANN
Front 370mm plain 2-piece
150.2911.32
Upgraded Front 370mm crossdrilled
150.2911.52
(Recently ~$113 each)

Rear 345mm plain 2-piece
with 185mm handbrake
150.2919.32
With older 160mm small hat handbrake
150.2921.20
See photo for handbrake sizes. You must install a rear rotor that matches the size of handbrake that came with the car from the factory.

STOPTECH CROSSDRILLED
StopTech are a more expensive crossdrilled option because they are designed with specific left/right sides for best vane cooling. Not sure how much it really matters for daily street performance over Zimmermanns but they look nice. StopTech have black rotor hats. $325/pair is an excellent price

Front 370mm Crossdrilled
128.34144L
128.34144R

Rear 345mm Crossdrilled with 185mm handbrake
128.34147L
128.34147R

Ultimate front rotors are StopTech 370mm full floating crossdrilled with rust coating part# 81.B39.9941

Upgrade your rubber brake hoses to stainless steel brake lines for much more solid brake pedal feel. StopTech is ~$107/ set of four

Hope this helps!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
If you want cross drilled rotor there a cheaper option than stop tech. R1Concept nLine rotor. They are sponsor here.

There rotor is not that bad...you can actually change your rotor every time you change your pad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
If you want cross drilled rotor there a cheaper option than stop tech. R1Concept nLine rotor. They are sponsor here.

There rotor is not that bad...you can actually change your rotor every time you change your pad.
IMO you aren't comparing apples to apples when you attempt to compare R1 rotors to StopTech rotors. R1 appear to be a cheap one-piece rotor, which is lower quality than stock rotors. Even plain BMW M Sport rotors are two piece with aluminum hats.

Zimmermann drilled is a high quality 2-piece German rotor with zinc coating, so its higher quality than BMW stock rotors. StopTech is at a higher lever than that, with 2-piece and a true engineered left/right airflow design.
Many thanks you guys! Sorry for not getting back so quickly, its been a crazy day.

I to no degree really know the total ins and outs with my car, i just know quality costs money. I haven't really shortsided anything on my car and id prefer not to, but some of these brake systems are veryyyyy expensive. My car is an m-sport but not quite sure if there is or isnt the upgraded brake system. If I replace one axle id prefer to do both but id also prefer not to spend $2k. At the end of the day im not tracking the car, its a daily driver, id just like to stop without squeaking. Cosmetics are always nice, i just compromise efficiency for looks. I just drive the damn thing lol.

If i were to go with R1, would the Carbon GEO be a good set to buy or am i going a bit too dramatic? Im not opposed with going e-ljne instead, a difference of $300 is still saving $300.

I have learned a lot on this forum and im continuing to, in baby steps. I appreciate all of your knowledge very much!
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      06-14-2020, 11:44 AM   #11
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Any pros/cons to this combo from the gurus on this thread?

I have a 2016 F25 with original OEM brake/rotor setup.

I don't track/autocross my SUV........er .....SAV.

BMW Brake Kit - Zimmermann/Akebono 34106879122KTFR from FCP Euro

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...4106879122ktfr
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      06-14-2020, 12:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a404freedom View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
IMO you aren't comparing apples to apples when you attempt to compare R1 rotors to StopTech rotors. R1 appear to be a cheap one-piece rotor, which is lower quality than stock rotors. Even plain BMW M Sport rotors are two piece with aluminum hats.

Zimmermann drilled is a high quality 2-piece German rotor with zinc coating, so its higher quality than BMW stock rotors. StopTech is at a higher lever than that, with 2-piece and a true engineered left/right airflow design.
I did say they are cheap

Okay DD.... they not going to disintegrate on you. Replace together with pad... brand new everytime
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by a404freedom View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
FWIW, I tried a set of PowerStop pads and they squeaked a lot. Not sure if they're the same pads that come with the set you posted pics of though. You could always piecemeal a set. It's not uncommon to find posts for rotors in the classifieds here. Pair them with quality pads that are low-noise and you'll be set.
Ive also heard you could sandpaper the pads n rotor really light to scuff them up?
How many miles do you have and are these the original pads and rotors?

Mechanics tick me off when they give opinions rather than measurements. If some says you need new rotors ask them what your rotors measured. The wear material on BMW rotors is 1.6mm. No one can eyeball that and tell you anything.

Don't fall for the "feel the ridge at the edge of the rotor" nonsense. Meaningless! Tactic used to sell new rotors! The procedure is to measure rotor thickness with a millimeter caliper at 8 random spots on the wear surface and take the lowest number. Obviously if the lowest number is way different then the caliper was probably held at an angle or something that provided an incorrect measurement. If a mechanic is showing you 8 thickness measurements of your rotor then he is a keeper who you can trust!

Squeaks are most commonly caused by poorly greased brakes. The brake grease is an integral component in the brake system. The procedure is in Bentley manual and on newtis website. See photo.

If you are going to start replacing components then:

Brake pads are most critical component. Get Hawk 5.0. Best street pads by far. Best bite, instant warm up and light dust that washes right off. See photo for part numbers. If you have a 435i with blue M Sport brakes then you have 370mm front and 345mm rear brakes.

Avoid slotted or dimpled rotors. They are noisy and provide little performance value.

Plain rotors are fine for the street. If you want a rotor upgrade get crossdrilled. (Not crossdrilled and slotted. Avoid slotted for street use!)

Crossdrilled rotors provide the best bite by far and the best performance in the rain because water can't trap between rotor and pad surfaces. There is a reason why Porsche, Mercedes and McLaren all install crossdrilled rotors on their street performance cars.

If you can only afford to upgrade one axle then put crossdrilled rotors on the front which do the most work. The rear helps too, if you can afford it.

Plain rotors- get Zimmermann. Same high quality as BMW but also zinc coated against rust, and much less expensive.

ZIMMERMANN
Front 370mm plain 2-piece
150.2911.32
Upgraded Front 370mm crossdrilled
150.2911.52
(Recently ~$113 each)

Rear 345mm plain 2-piece
with 185mm handbrake
150.2919.32
With older 160mm small hat handbrake
150.2921.20
See photo for handbrake sizes. You must install a rear rotor that matches the size of handbrake that came with the car from the factory.

STOPTECH CROSSDRILLED
StopTech are a more expensive crossdrilled option because they are designed with specific left/right sides for best vane cooling. Not sure how much it really matters for daily street performance over Zimmermanns but they look nice. StopTech have black rotor hats. $325/pair is an excellent price

Front 370mm Crossdrilled
128.34144L
128.34144R

Rear 345mm Crossdrilled with 185mm handbrake
128.34147L
128.34147R

Ultimate front rotors are StopTech 370mm full floating crossdrilled with rust coating part# 81.B39.9941

Upgrade your rubber brake hoses to stainless steel brake lines for much more solid brake pedal feel. StopTech is ~$107/ set of four

Hope this helps!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
If you want cross drilled rotor there a cheaper option than stop tech. R1Concept nLine rotor. They are sponsor here.

There rotor is not that bad...you can actually change your rotor every time you change your pad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
If you want cross drilled rotor there a cheaper option than stop tech. R1Concept nLine rotor. They are sponsor here.

There rotor is not that bad...you can actually change your rotor every time you change your pad.
IMO you aren't comparing apples to apples when you attempt to compare R1 rotors to StopTech rotors. R1 appear to be a cheap one-piece rotor, which is lower quality than stock rotors. Even plain BMW M Sport rotors are two piece with aluminum hats.

Zimmermann drilled is a high quality 2-piece German rotor with zinc coating, so its higher quality than BMW stock rotors. StopTech is at a higher lever than that, with 2-piece and a true engineered left/right airflow design.
Many thanks you guys! Sorry for not getting back so quickly, its been a crazy day.

I to no degree really know the total ins and outs with my car, i just know quality costs money. I haven't really shortsided anything on my car and id prefer not to, but some of these brake systems are veryyyyy expensive. My car is an m-sport but not quite sure if there is or isnt the upgraded brake system. If I replace one axle id prefer to do both but id also prefer not to spend $2k. At the end of the day im not tracking the car, its a daily driver, id just like to stop without squeaking. Cosmetics are always nice, i just compromise efficiency for looks. I just drive the damn thing lol.

If i were to go with R1, would the Carbon GEO be a good set to buy or am i going a bit too dramatic? Im not opposed with going e-ljne instead, a difference of $300 is still saving $300.

I have learned a lot on this forum and im continuing to, in baby steps. I appreciate all of your knowledge very much!
I'm not sure if R1 would necessarily be an upgrade from your OEM rotors. Alternatively, you could try to get the M Performance brake rotors, just be aware they are dimpled and slotted and might make some noise.

Otherwise, Brembo or StopTech would be a step in the right direction. Zimmerman I believe is OE. Money no object: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...09607ecs01akt/
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      06-14-2020, 12:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by a404freedom View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
IMO you aren't comparing apples to apples when you attempt to compare R1 rotors to StopTech rotors. R1 appear to be a cheap one-piece rotor, which is lower quality than stock rotors. Even plain BMW M Sport rotors are two piece with aluminum hats.

Zimmermann drilled is a high quality 2-piece German rotor with zinc coating, so its higher quality than BMW stock rotors. StopTech is at a higher lever than that, with 2-piece and a true engineered left/right airflow design.
I did say they are cheap

Okay DD.... they not going to disintegrate on you. Replace together with pad... brand new everytime
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by a404freedom View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jh_f30 View Post
FWIW, I tried a set of PowerStop pads and they squeaked a lot. Not sure if they're the same pads that come with the set you posted pics of though. You could always piecemeal a set. It's not uncommon to find posts for rotors in the classifieds here. Pair them with quality pads that are low-noise and you'll be set.
Ive also heard you could sandpaper the pads n rotor really light to scuff them up?
How many miles do you have and are these the original pads and rotors?

Mechanics tick me off when they give opinions rather than measurements. If some says you need new rotors ask them what your rotors measured. The wear material on BMW rotors is 1.6mm. No one can eyeball that and tell you anything.

Don't fall for the "feel the ridge at the edge of the rotor" nonsense. Meaningless! Tactic used to sell new rotors! The procedure is to measure rotor thickness with a millimeter caliper at 8 random spots on the wear surface and take the lowest number. Obviously if the lowest number is way different then the caliper was probably held at an angle or something that provided an incorrect measurement. If a mechanic is showing you 8 thickness measurements of your rotor then he is a keeper who you can trust!

Squeaks are most commonly caused by poorly greased brakes. The brake grease is an integral component in the brake system. The procedure is in Bentley manual and on newtis website. See photo.

If you are going to start replacing components then:

Brake pads are most critical component. Get Hawk 5.0. Best street pads by far. Best bite, instant warm up and light dust that washes right off. See photo for part numbers. If you have a 435i with blue M Sport brakes then you have 370mm front and 345mm rear brakes.

Avoid slotted or dimpled rotors. They are noisy and provide little performance value.

Plain rotors are fine for the street. If you want a rotor upgrade get crossdrilled. (Not crossdrilled and slotted. Avoid slotted for street use!)

Crossdrilled rotors provide the best bite by far and the best performance in the rain because water can't trap between rotor and pad surfaces. There is a reason why Porsche, Mercedes and McLaren all install crossdrilled rotors on their street performance cars.

If you can only afford to upgrade one axle then put crossdrilled rotors on the front which do the most work. The rear helps too, if you can afford it.

Plain rotors- get Zimmermann. Same high quality as BMW but also zinc coated against rust, and much less expensive.

ZIMMERMANN
Front 370mm plain 2-piece
150.2911.32
Upgraded Front 370mm crossdrilled
150.2911.52
(Recently ~$113 each)

Rear 345mm plain 2-piece
with 185mm handbrake
150.2919.32
With older 160mm small hat handbrake
150.2921.20
See photo for handbrake sizes. You must install a rear rotor that matches the size of handbrake that came with the car from the factory.

STOPTECH CROSSDRILLED
StopTech are a more expensive crossdrilled option because they are designed with specific left/right sides for best vane cooling. Not sure how much it really matters for daily street performance over Zimmermanns but they look nice. StopTech have black rotor hats. $325/pair is an excellent price

Front 370mm Crossdrilled
128.34144L
128.34144R

Rear 345mm Crossdrilled with 185mm handbrake
128.34147L
128.34147R

Ultimate front rotors are StopTech 370mm full floating crossdrilled with rust coating part# 81.B39.9941

Upgrade your rubber brake hoses to stainless steel brake lines for much more solid brake pedal feel. StopTech is ~$107/ set of four

Hope this helps!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
If you want cross drilled rotor there a cheaper option than stop tech. R1Concept nLine rotor. They are sponsor here.

There rotor is not that bad...you can actually change your rotor every time you change your pad.
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Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
If you want cross drilled rotor there a cheaper option than stop tech. R1Concept nLine rotor. They are sponsor here.

There rotor is not that bad...you can actually change your rotor every time you change your pad.
IMO you aren't comparing apples to apples when you attempt to compare R1 rotors to StopTech rotors. R1 appear to be a cheap one-piece rotor, which is lower quality than stock rotors. Even plain BMW M Sport rotors are two piece with aluminum hats.

Zimmermann drilled is a high quality 2-piece German rotor with zinc coating, so its higher quality than BMW stock rotors. StopTech is at a higher lever than that, with 2-piece and a true engineered left/right airflow design.
Many thanks you guys! Sorry for not getting back so quickly, its been a crazy day.

I to no degree really know the total ins and outs with my car, i just know quality costs money. I haven't really shortsided anything on my car and id prefer not to, but some of these brake systems are veryyyyy expensive. My car is an m-sport but not quite sure if there is or isnt the upgraded brake system. If I replace one axle id prefer to do both but id also prefer not to spend $2k. At the end of the day im not tracking the car, its a daily driver, id just like to stop without squeaking. Cosmetics are always nice, i just compromise efficiency for looks. I just drive the damn thing lol.

If i were to go with R1, would the Carbon GEO be a good set to buy or am i going a bit too dramatic? Im not opposed with going e-ljne instead, a difference of $300 is still saving $300.

I have learned a lot on this forum and im continuing to, in baby steps. I appreciate all of your knowledge very much!
I'm not sure if R1 would necessarily be an upgrade from your OEM rotors. Alternatively, you could try to get the M Performance brake rotors, just be aware they are dimpled and slotted and might make some noise.

Otherwise, Brembo or StopTech would be a step in the right direction. Zimmerman I believe is OE. Money no object: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...09607ecs01akt/
And that is essentially what i want to get rid of lol. Im guessing is stop tech is the only option??
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      06-14-2020, 12:23 PM   #14
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I recommend R1 concept because the OP want to keep cost low.... and his post had question about opinion on power stop.

I put both company on the same category.
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      06-14-2020, 12:28 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
I recommend R1 concept because the OP want to keep cost low.... and his post had question about opinion on power stop.

I put both company on the same category.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
I recommend R1 concept because the OP want to keep cost low.... and his post had question about opinion on power stop.

I put both company on the same category.
What attracts me to R1 is i could replace both front and rear. I just dont want to regret it. Ultimately im going purely off experience.
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      06-14-2020, 12:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
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What attracts me to R1 is i could replace both front and rear. I just dont want to regret it. Ultimately im going purely off experience.
The main reason for squeak and noise is the pads... I have change my pads to akebono still using the stock rotors and no more noise but it could vary how bad the rotors to begin with.

Result could vary😏

Last edited by Gen13 F36; 06-14-2020 at 12:44 PM..
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      06-14-2020, 12:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by a404freedom View Post
What attracts me to R1 is i could replace both front and rear. I just dont want to regret it. Ultimately im going purely off experience.
The main reason for squeak and noise is the pads... I have change my pads to akebono still using the stock rotors and no more noise but it could vary how bad the rotors to begin with.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
I recommend R1 concept because the OP want to keep cost low.... and his post had question about opinion on power stop.

I put both company on the same category.
Thats kinda what i would prefer. If it could be the pads it is probably going pads first, if no change than rotors second
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      06-14-2020, 03:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a404freedom View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by a404freedom View Post
What attracts me to R1 is i could replace both front and rear. I just dont want to regret it. Ultimately im going purely off experience.
The main reason for squeak and noise is the pads... I have change my pads to akebono still using the stock rotors and no more noise but it could vary how bad the rotors to begin with.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen13 F36 View Post
I recommend R1 concept because the OP want to keep cost low.... and his post had question about opinion on power stop.

I put both company on the same category.
Thats kinda what i would prefer. If it could be the pads it is probably going pads first, if no change than rotors second
Replacing the pads will solve a vast majority of squeaking issues, so long as they are installed correctly. Rotors generally won't be the culprit unless they are super glazed. If your rotor thickness is within spec, there's no need to replace them.
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      06-22-2020, 03:26 PM   #19
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I cannot for the life of me find cross drilled zimmerman rotors for my 2015 435i xdrive gran coupe with the blue msport brakes.

Do they exist?
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      06-22-2020, 05:30 PM   #20
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Quote:
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I cannot for the life of me find cross drilled zimmerman rotors for my 2015 435i xdrive gran coupe with the blue msport brakes.

Do they exist?
If you aren't partial to the Zimmerman rotors I would recommend the Stoptech Drilled rotors. Just installed a set on my 2015 435 GC M sport and am very pleased with them.
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      06-22-2020, 07:01 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozymandias435 View Post
If you aren't partial to the Zimmerman rotors I would recommend the Stoptech Drilled rotors. Just installed a set on my 2015 435 GC M sport and am very pleased with them.

Not necessarily partial to the Zimmerman. I was looking at them more so because I'm having trouble finding a place with the Stoptechs in stock. Where did you buy yours? How long did it take to get them?

I am getting a shudder felt in my steering wheel when I brake. I am assuming it's the rotors. Anything you thing could cause this? Wheels are aligned and balanced. Shudder only when braking.

I'd rather not wait a month to receive new rotors if they're the culprit.
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      06-22-2020, 07:19 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 435gc View Post
Not necessarily partial to the Zimmerman. I was looking at them more so because I'm having trouble finding a place with the Stoptechs in stock. Where did you buy yours? How long did it take to get them?

I am getting a shudder felt in my steering wheel when I brake. I am assuming it's the rotors. Anything you thing could cause this? Wheels are aligned and balanced. Shudder only when braking.

I'd rather not wait a month to receive new rotors if they're the culprit.
It sounds like something with the rotors from my perspective. Hopefully someone more knowledgable can chime in.

I bought mine at https://www.buybrakes.com/

Took about a week to receive them.
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