[kpgray]

I performed a DIY spring change on my F32 last weekend. I never performed this task on a BMW previously, it took a full Saturday including prep and cleanup in my garage. While researching how to perform this task, I found information scattered, incomplete or sketchy on the subject in this forum and other sources as YouTube. To help others, I am posting one of the most comprehensive DIY videos for spring change I have ever seen! This 30 minutes video is courtesy of Farkle, who I want to personally thank for the great support! From his comprehensive video, I put together a tool check off list (under the video) with tools required and torque values. I validated the tools during my spring swap out, so the list should be complete. This will help the DIY person to perform a spring change on any F2x/F3x and hopefully prevent the missing item that frustratingly stalls your task. Good luck!

If you copy and paste on a Word Document, should fit on two pages to print off:

Sockets:
□ Ratchets (1/2” & 3/8”)
□ Breaker Bars (1/2”)
□ Extensions (1/2” & 3/8”)
□ 10 MM - Standard 3-Bolt Shock Tower / Front Plastic Cover Cam Studs
□ 13 MM - Standard 5-Bolt Front Shock Tower Top Strut
□ 16 MM - Front Strut Clamp Knuckle Nut
□ 16 MM - Pass Through Rod Ends / Rear Upper Shock Nut
□ 17 MM - Wheel Studs
□ 18 MM - Front Strut Clamp Knuckle Bolt / Rear Shock Bolt
□ 18 MM - Pass Through Shock Mount Strut / Rear Shock Bolt & Nut
□ 21 MM - Rear Camber Arm Nut / Bolt (Could be 20MM)
Combination Wrenches:
□ 13 MM - Front Shock Tower Top Strut
□ 16 MM - Strut Clamp Knuckle Nut
□ 18 MM - Strut Clamp Knuckle Bolt / Rear Shock Bolt & Nut
□ 21 MM - Rear Camber Arm Knuckle Bolt or Nut (Note: Could be 20MM)
□ ¾” - Pass-Through Sockets (This is dependent on set)
Optional if you have headlight leveling:
□ 8 MM - Optional Front/Rear level indicator Lever
□ 9 MM - Optional Front/Rear level indicator Lever
Torx Center-hold:
□ T30 - Rod End (for 16 MM Pass Through Socket above)
Torx Socket:
□ E12 - Rear Upper Shock Bolts
□ E18 - Front Strut Brace Stud / Rear Camber Arm Bolt
□ E20 - Rear Camber Arm Nut (Note: Could be 22 MM)
Hex Allen Wrench:
□ 5 MM - Rear Shock Upper Mount (for 16 MM Pass Through Socket above)
□ 6 MM - Front Shock Mount Strut (for 18 MM Pass Through Socket above)
Special Tools:
□ Outside Spring Compressor
□ 1/2” & 3/8” Torque Wrenches for ranges 10-150 ft. lbs.
□ Knuckle Spreader (to open strut clamp) (1 required **ESC # 2652181)
□ Trim Tool for Front Strut Rubber Cover Expand Rivet Removal
□ Crows Foot for Pass Through Sockets (optional due to your personal tools usage)
□ 2 Ton Floor Jack (minimum)
□ Jack Stands (2 minimum)
Optional xDrive wheel nut removal (if doing the BMW way) *:
□ 17 MM Male Hex Socket for xDrive Front Axel Wheel Nut (xDrive BMW way)
□ Pick Tool to remove BMW Wheel Center Cap (if removing 17MM Front Axle Wheel Nut)
Front Torques***(SEE NOTES):
Rod End = 32.5 ft. lbs. (16MM)
Strut Clamp Knuckle = 41.5 ft. lbs. (18 MM)
Shock Damper = 47 ft lbs. (18 MM)
Shock Tower Bolt: 5-Bolt = 22 ft. lbs. (8 MM) -OR- 3-Bolt = 41.5 ft. lbs. (10 MM)
Shock Tower Strut Brace = 41.5 ft. lbs. (E18)
Rear Torques***(SEE NOTES):
Camber Arm = 122 ft. lbs. (E20 / 21 MM (Note: Could be E22 / 20 MM))
Shock Bolt = 75 ft. lbs. (18 MM)
Top Shock Mount = 28 ft. lbs. (16 MM)
Upper Shock Mount = 20.65 ft. lbs. (E12)
Wheel Torque***(SEE NOTES):
103.25 lbs. 17MM Wheel Studs
NOTES:
*IMPORTANT NOTE: If removing the Front Axle Wheel Nut DO NOT REUSE (2 required: **ECS # 2859492)
** Special Note: ESC is ESC Tuning: https://www.ecstuning.com/
***IMPORTANT NOTE DISCLAIMER: The torque values are as of early 2020 and if any OEM changes were made by BMW, I would recommend validation of torque values on your part!
Additional OEM information in PDF can be found at the forum post F32 Suspension Torque Values as a "Sticky" at the top of the "Suspension | Chassis | Brakes" section but may not be the most recent

[x328x]

Fantastic. hope to tackle this one day

Front Torques***(SEE NOTES):
Rod End = 32.5 ft. lbs. (16MM)<-----do you mean 16NM newton meters

[Gen13 F36]

Originally Posted by x328x

Fantastic. hope to tackle this one day

Front Torques***(SEE NOTES):
Rod End = 32.5 ft. lbs. (16MM)<-----do you mean 16NM newton meters

I think he meant the bolt or nut is 16MM

[kpgray]

Originally Posted by x328x

Fantastic. hope to tackle this one day

Front Torques***(SEE NOTES):
Rod End = 32.5 ft. lbs. (16MM)<-----do you mean 16NM newton meters

These were the hex bolt/nut sizes, I updated the descriptions.

Originally Posted by Gen13 F36

I think he meant the bolt or nut is 16MM

Correct

[haagm58]

Wow, incredibly detailed and well-documented list of tools and specs. I agree that FaRKle! video is excellent. Thank you for putting this together!

[x328x]

Originally Posted by kpgray

These were the hex bolt/nut sizes, I updated the descriptions.



Correct

Thanks. In Australia we use the the newton measure than pounds most of the time so wasn't sure if you were trying to state the equivalent

thanks

[Ahanix]

I’ve been watching a lot of videos and have been trying to figure out why everyone removes the Tophat for the front springs. Isn’t it just as easy / safe to swap the springs and dampers by removing the nut on the top and then pulling the springs out the way they do it in this video?

https://youtu.be/DZcwKY0SIXs


Anything I’m missing here?

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by Ahanix

I’ve been watching a lot of videos and have been trying to figure out why everyone removes the Tophat for the front springs. Isn’t it just as easy / safe to swap the springs and dampers by removing the nut on the top and then pulling the springs out the way they do it in this video?

https://youtu.be/DZcwKY0SIXs


Anything I’m missing here?

That method doesn't work for all F2x/F3x. F2x/F3x front springs can be much longer than F8x. Also, xDrive vehicles can't lower the knuckle assembly as much as RWD due to the drive shaft.

[Ahanix]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

That method doesn't work for all F2x/F3x. F2x/F3x front springs can be much longer than F8x. Also, xDrive vehicles can't lower the knuckle assembly as much as RWD due to the drive shaft.

Well that answers that, thank you so much for the info! Given that I’m trying to swap for Dinan springs on xdrive I’ll plan on the video you pulled together.

[anom3]

I believe one of these is incorrect:

Top Shock Mount = 28 ft. lbs. (16 MM)

From what I can see this should be 28 nm not ft lbs.

[Markyboyt]

Originally Posted by anom3

I believe one of these is incorrect:

Top Shock Mount = 28 ft. lbs. (16 MM)

From what I can see this should be 28 nm not ft lbs.

The top mount is correct, it’s the 2AZ figure 38Nm on the 16mm, the 28Nm figure is for the E12 bolts holding the top mount to the body.

[anom3]

i stand corrected. i appoligze!

diving into this next week, just did the rears yday.

Originally Posted by Markyboyt

The top mount is correct, it’s the 2AZ figure 38Nm on the 16mm, the 28Nm figure is for the E12 bolts holding the top mount to the body.

[bytterga]

Question:
I did my rear shocks today and just noticed my shocks have the bolt opposite from yours, it is pushed from the back with the nut towards the front. I took pics to be sure that i got the direction correct when i put it back together.
Well i did as the manual says, put it back the same way it came off but i find it strange that the bolt is pushed in from the back.
Is this something to thinking about or i am overthinking things? the manual states "Note direction of insertion of screw"
Well i did that… sort of.

[RbBugBitMe]

I followed the directions but can't think of a reason this really matters other than maybe tool clearance. You should torque the nut and hold the bolt steady and I think there is more clearance for the torque wrench at the rear of the arm as your picture shows.
The bolt isn't rusting the same as the others so its possible someone else already did some maintenance and put a new non-OEM bolt in backwards.