[jgalaxy]

Did another track event last week and really enjoyed myself. A lot less sliding around, and improved my times - but the staggered F1 GS-D3 19's have to be replaced.

Esteemed track vets, if I go to 17's over 18's I'll certaily save some bucks. What am I giving up or losing using a square settup on 17's for the 335?

[S4to335]

The decision was made quickly for me..the 17" wheel options cannot handle my Alcon big brake upgrate..I had no choice but to do 18" wheels for track. The 18s might have a little bit more quicker turn in..but you might not notice it at all. The 17"s would be cheaper..that is for sure.

[tintivilus]

I'm hardly a track vet, but I know a lot of people prefer 17s. Going square reduces your understeer, and going smaller on the wheel helps keep the weight down.

You'll see a little more sidewall flex than with equal tires of larger size, but the advantages should outweigh the disadvantages. With 17's you might be able to afford better tires.

[Chowbow]

If you're worried about the difference in tire profile you can just go with a lower profile 17" wheel, and run the same "series" tire as you would have with 18s. You would run out of gear faster as it's similar to running a shorter final drive ratio... Whether this is good or bad for you would be your own judgment though.

[nicknaz]

Personally, I think with the OEM sport package run flat tires, R compound, or very aggressive street tires (RT615, RE01R, etc) the sidewalls are already so stiff the difference in turn between a 17" and 18" size is negligible. I have no experience with less aggressive street tires like Pilot Sport PS2

If you don't have brakes that require 18" I think the cost and weight savings of 17" make it an obvious choice

[jgalaxy]

Well at the very least going to a square setup seems to be my direction. Seems like 17" would innocuous and the way to go. Now to settle on a reasonable tire. Thanks to all that replied here. I appreciate the feedback.

[leftcoastman]

Originally Posted by westwest888

I just read in the Roundel about the 322mm Performance Friction Brakes that Bimmerworld (in VA) used on their 135i. Do those fit inside 17" wheels? They said they saved 40 pounds of unsprung weight for the fronts only!

I gotta imagine it would.

The STOCK front brakes on a 335i are 347mm.

[longodj]

Originally Posted by jgalaxy

Well at the very least going to a square setup seems to be my direction. Seems like 17" would innocuous and the way to go. Now to settle on a reasonable tire. Thanks to all that replied here. I appreciate the feedback.

Street:
Bridgestone RE01R ( first hand experience )
Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec ( soon to have first hand experience )

Competition:
Toyo R888 (heard nothing but good things)
Nitto NT-01 (heard nothing but good things)

[jahwerx]

FWIW, I'm running R888 255/35/18 all around on 18x9 LTW-5.

The Proxes weigh almost the same as the OEM 18" runflats (although they are LARGER)

Installed, 4 tires cost me $1,300 - that is not too bad and they are wearing great - 5 track days and I drive em on the street as well. They feel very good and in discussion with a 'vette driver who also runs the R888's he says they are the best non-slick tire he's run so far (he's got a lot more track experience than me)

the R888's in the size I purchased also come with a stiffer sidewall (they come in 2 varients based on size) - maybe that's why they are on the heavyish side.


My wheels weigh 18lb and cost under $1,300 for all 4.

This may be on of the lightest/cheapest setups out there for the 335. (have to run 5mm spacers in the front, and get slightly larger lug bolts to go un-staggered)

cheers,
-j

[leftcoastman]

Is the spacer due to rubbing on the front struts...or front fender lip?

Originally Posted by jahwerx

FWIW, I'm running R888 255/35/18 all around on 18x9 LTW-5.

The Proxes weigh almost the same as the OEM 18" runflats (although they are LARGER)

Installed, 4 tires cost me $1,300 - that is not too bad and they are wearing great - 5 track days and I drive em on the street as well. They feel very good and in discussion with a 'vette driver who also runs the R888's he says they are the best non-slick tire he's run so far (he's got a lot more track experience than me)

the R888's in the size I purchased also come with a stiffer sidewall (they come in 2 varients based on size) - maybe that's why they are on the heavyish side.


My wheels weigh 18lb and cost under $1,300 for all 4.

This may be on of the lightest/cheapest setups out there for the 335. (have to run 5mm spacers in the front, and get slightly larger lug bolts to go un-staggered)

cheers,
-j

[nicknaz]

Originally Posted by longodj

Street:
Bridgestone RE01R ( first hand experience )
Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec ( soon to have first hand experience )

Add Falken RT615 to that list!

[Chowbow]

I got to race the Z1SS and RE01R nearly back to back on similarly setup Evos. I would say they are pretty close, and if I were using my own money, I would buy the Z1SS. They really kick butt for the price and I don't think they turn in and stick quite as nice as the RE01Rs, but the difference is really quite small. I would buy a set for sure if they made them in the size I need.

[jgalaxy]

Originally Posted by longodj

Street:
Bridgestone RE01R ( first hand experience )
Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec ( soon to have first hand experience )

Competition:
Toyo R888 (heard nothing but good things)
Nitto NT-01 (heard nothing but good things)

Thanks my man. I was looking specifically at the RE01R and Z1 Star Spec. I'll likely go for the Z1 due to the pricing.

Originally Posted by jahwerx

FWIW, I'm running R888 255/35/18 all around on 18x9 LTW-5.

The Proxes weigh almost the same as the OEM 18" runflats (although they are LARGER)

Installed, 4 tires cost me $1,300 - that is not too bad and they are wearing great - 5 track days and I drive em on the street as well. They feel very good and in discussion with a 'vette driver who also runs the R888's he says they are the best non-slick tire he's run so far (he's got a lot more track experience than me)

the R888's in the size I purchased also come with a stiffer sidewall (they come in 2 varients based on size) - maybe that's why they are on the heavyish side.


My wheels weigh 18lb and cost under $1,300 for all 4.

This may be on of the lightest/cheapest setups out there for the 335. (have to run 5mm spacers in the front, and get slightly larger lug bolts to go un-staggered)

cheers,
-j

Great info. Spacers due to the offset of the rims you have?

Originally Posted by Chowbow

I got to race the Z1SS and RE01R nearly back to back on similarly setup Evos. I would say they are pretty close, and if I were using my own money, I would buy the Z1SS. They really kick butt for the price and I don't think they turn in and stick quite as nice as the RE01Rs, but the difference is really quite small. I would buy a set for sure if they made them in the size I need.

Thanks CB. You guys are making it easier.

Appreciate the advice from everyone.

[jahwerx]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

Is the spacer due to rubbing on the front struts...or front fender lip?

struts

[jahwerx]

Originally Posted by jgalaxy

Great info. Spacers due to the offset of the rims you have?

Bingo:

OEM: Style 162 Wheel/ Bridgestone RFT
F: 18x8.0 ET34 (30 lb) 225/40R18 88W (26 lb) = 56 lb
R: 18x8.5 ET37 (32 lb) 255/35R18 90W (27 lb) = 59 lb
Going to: D-Force LTW5/ Toyo R888
F: 18x9.0 ET41 (18 lb) 255/35ZR18 94Y (26 lb) = 44 lb
R: 18x9.0 ET41 (18 lb) 255/35ZR18 94Y (26 lb) = 44 lb

Notice the 18.0X8.0 ET34 versus the 18X9.0 ET41
5mm spacer is as small as it gets, but that is all that is needed - leaves a couple mils between the strut and the rim, and ABSOLUTELY NO RUBBING - even smashing through chicanes - I realize this ain't good for the old wheel bearings, but a guys gotta do, what a guys gotta do

This is on the OEM sport suspension, NOT coilovers, so YMMV.

[nicknaz]

Originally Posted by jahwerx

Bingo:

OEM: Style 162 Wheel/ Bridgestone RFT
F: 18x8.0 ET34 (30 lb) 225/40R18 88W (26 lb) = 56 lb
R: 18x8.5 ET37 (32 lb) 255/35R18 90W (27 lb) = 59 lb
Going to: D-Force LTW5/ Toyo R888
F: 18x9.0 ET41 (18 lb) 255/35ZR18 94Y (26 lb) = 44 lb
R: 18x9.0 ET41 (18 lb) 255/35ZR18 94Y (26 lb) = 44 lb

Notice the 18.0X8.0 ET34 versus the 18X9.0 ET41
5mm spacer is as small as it gets, but that is all that is needed - leaves a couple mils between the strut and the rim, and ABSOLUTELY NO RUBBING - even smashing through chicanes - I realize this ain't good for the old wheel bearings, but a guys gotta do, what a guys gotta do

This is on the OEM sport suspension, NOT coilovers, so YMMV.

Great info thanks. That's a lot of rubber, must be fun!

[ToddPhilly]

I'm running 17x8.5 Kosei K1 wheels and Direzza Z1 Star Specs. They work great on track. The Koseis are about $140/piece on tirerack, and I believe I paid about $130/tire on tirerack as well for the Z1's. Great combo in my opinion!

[nicknaz]

Originally Posted by ToddPhilly

I'm running 17x8.5 Kosei K1 wheels and Direzza Z1 Star Specs. They work great on track. The Koseis are about $140/piece on tirerack, and I believe I paid about $130/tire on tirerack as well for the Z1's. Great combo in my opinion!

Todd, what is your suspension setup? Any spacers? Is there any rubbing under compression? How much clearance do you have from the fender lip and the strut?

Thanks,
Nick

[leftcoastman]

I've been using the Kosei 17x8.5 setup for a while. Even with 255s (r-comps, even), it doesn't rub.

There is about 6mm of clearance from inside wheel lip to strut tube, for both stock setup and also TC Klines. You cannot lower the hell out of the car, or it will rub on the spring perch, but then again, I'm setup for track use, so overlowering the car is detrimental.

Even with stock camber, the 255s didn't rub on the outside fender lip. With negative camber, obviously there is no rub.

The caveat is that there is one instance where I rub: full lock in the parking lot. It rubs on the inner fender liner.

[nicknaz]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

Even with stock camber, the 255s didn't rub on the outside fender lip. With negative camber, obviously there is no rub.

The caveat is that there is one instance where I rub: full lock in the parking lot. It rubs on the inner fender liner.

Sweet. Thanks for confirming the Kosei fitment.

I'm pretty stupid when it comes to wheels.. Do you know if I would be able to take a set of rear sport package wheels (style 161, ET37 18x8.5) and use 255 tires in front? If I understand offset correctly I would only have 3mm of clearance to the strut tower (since ET40 kosei have 6mm clearance). This seems insufficient. Any thoughts?

[ToddPhilly]

Originally Posted by Nick Nazareno

Todd, what is your suspension setup? Any spacers? Is there any rubbing under compression? How much clearance do you have from the fender lip and the strut?

Thanks,
Nick

Nick,

I have stock suspension and 245 z1's on the Kosei's. There is absolutely NO rubbing under compression or otherwise. Haven't measured the clearance, but it sounds like leftcoastman did running 255's. If you're really concerned you could run 235's, but 245's seem to be perfect with this setup.

Good luck!

Todd

[longodj]

Originally Posted by ToddPhilly

Nick,

I have stock suspension and 245 z1's on the Kosei's. There is absolutely NO rubbing under compression or otherwise. Haven't measured the clearance, but it sounds like leftcoastman did running 255's. If you're really concerned you could run 235's, but 245's seem to be perfect with this setup.

Good luck!

Todd

Same report here on K1s with 245 tires.