At my wits end

tmo24 · 12-29-2018, 04:57 PM

About 6 months ago my dash lit up like a Xmas tree. Windshield wipers on by themselves. Overheated. I towed to the dealership and they replaced the alternator and battery. Everything was fine. A couple months later I was at a stop light and the car shut off. Cranked hard but didnt turn over. All lights and radio/screen came on. Battery reads at 12.6v. Car won't crank. It's a 2010 335i with 125k on it. Towed home. Still cranks hard but no start. Codes say DME, fuel pressure loss, crankshaft position sensor. I checked all fuses and replaced a 30 amp fuse and the low pressure fuel pump because the dealer said it seemed like it was on its way out. Cleared codes. Car cranks but no start. So I replaced the crankshaft position sensor. Cleared codes. Finally it barely started. But it surges rpm like crazy. Then all of the error messages came up. Electrical system error, half engine light, dsc malfunction. I shut down the car and noticed that the water pump kept running. It runs as soon constantly as soon as I put the key in and push the start button with the foot off of the brake as well. Ran codes and it shows DME main relay switching delay, DME main relay control, electric coolant pump communication, bit-serial data interface signal, boost pressure control shutdown, fuel pressure after motor stop, and crankshaft intake/exhaust synchronization.

I have a strong feeling there's an issue with the alternator they installed. As I was doing repairs, I noticed that the 6 month old battery was leaking. I took it to get replaced so now it has a new battery. All fuses are good now as well. I guess I can start checking grounds and wires going to the DME. My fear is taking it to the dealer for them to tell me the alternator is fine but I need a new DME and programming etc and end up spending more than the car is worth. I don't have a warranty anymore but I did 6 months ago when they did the alternator and battery. If it's the cause, it will be covered. If not, they will hit me with all kinds of diagnostic fees. What do you guys think? Anyone else have this issue that found a resolution? I know it can be multiple things but I'm hoping the errors are due to one issue. Thanks in advance.

ptpending · 12-30-2018, 02:06 AM

there is bsd bus to which connected following devices
oil sensor, alternator regulator, ibs sensor, electic water pump
when some of these items is bad it can disturb bus and dme cannot communicate with other members
you need to disconnect them from bus by one if you have experience and check dme errors, if some errors will gone

rt7085 · 12-30-2018, 05:24 AM

I would check all the ground connections everywhere. When these break, you get Gremlins living in your car, especially because it is intermittent in nature in the beginning. Such issues cause lotsa KCAN and ECU codes at the same time as well as odd behavior (like your wipers going by themselves). There is a main engine strap is on the driver side between the chassis and the engine mount. There is typically another ignition related strap between the head and chassis on the passenger side. Also inspect (and tighten down) all grounding point junctions, especially near or inside the DME box. Look them all up in https://www.newtis.info. They are known to rot after 100k. Mine are too.

tmo24 · 01-02-2019, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rt7085

I would check all the ground connections everywhere. When these break, you get Gremlins living in your car, especially because it is intermittent in nature in the beginning. Such issues cause lotsa KCAN and ECU codes at the same time as well as odd behavior (like your wipers going by themselves). There is a main engine strap is on the driver side between the chassis and the engine mount. There is typically another ignition related strap between the head and chassis on the passenger side. Also inspect (and tighten down) all grounding point junctions, especially near or inside the DME box. Look them all up in https://www.newtis.info. They are known to rot after 100k. Mine are too.

I really appreciate it. I'll have to take a look here soon when it's not freezing and windy out. I'll report back with what I find.

12-29-2018, 04:57 PM	#1
tmo24 Major 139 Rep 1,271 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW 335i e92 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Las Vegas iTrader: (3)	At my wits end - electrical issues surging idle About 6 months ago my dash lit up like a Xmas tree. Windshield wipers on by themselves. Overheated. I towed to the dealership and they replaced the alternator and battery. Everything was fine. A couple months later I was at a stop light and the car shut off. Cranked hard but didnt turn over. All lights and radio/screen came on. Battery reads at 12.6v. Car won't crank. It's a 2010 335i with 125k on it. Towed home. Still cranks hard but no start. Codes say DME, fuel pressure loss, crankshaft position sensor. I checked all fuses and replaced a 30 amp fuse and the low pressure fuel pump because the dealer said it seemed like it was on its way out. Cleared codes. Car cranks but no start. So I replaced the crankshaft position sensor. Cleared codes. Finally it barely started. But it surges rpm like crazy. Then all of the error messages came up. Electrical system error, half engine light, dsc malfunction. I shut down the car and noticed that the water pump kept running. It runs as soon constantly as soon as I put the key in and push the start button with the foot off of the brake as well. Ran codes and it shows DME main relay switching delay, DME main relay control, electric coolant pump communication, bit-serial data interface signal, boost pressure control shutdown, fuel pressure after motor stop, and crankshaft intake/exhaust synchronization. I have a strong feeling there's an issue with the alternator they installed. As I was doing repairs, I noticed that the 6 month old battery was leaking. I took it to get replaced so now it has a new battery. All fuses are good now as well. I guess I can start checking grounds and wires going to the DME. My fear is taking it to the dealer for them to tell me the alternator is fine but I need a new DME and programming etc and end up spending more than the car is worth. I don't have a warranty anymore but I did 6 months ago when they did the alternator and battery. If it's the cause, it will be covered. If not, they will hit me with all kinds of diagnostic fees. What do you guys think? Anyone else have this issue that found a resolution? I know it can be multiple things but I'm hoping the errors are due to one issue. Thanks in advance. __________________ 2007 335i Jet Black e92 6AT - VRSF Full street exhaust DP, Chargepipe 7.5 FMIC, MHD, XHP, Koni orange/Eibachs, some other stuff 2007 335i Jet Black e90 6MT - Eibachs, magnaflow exhaust, carbon hood, short shift kit, some other random stuff - being sold somewhere sometime soon probably 2010 335i AW e90 6 AT Msport - The GF took this one over... JB4, PE exhaust, Koni yellows/Eibachs, pink badges, fuzzy steering wheel cover ?
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12-30-2018, 02:06 AM	#2
ptpending Colonel 456 Rep 2,749 Posts Drives: e91 Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Poland iTrader: (1)	there is bsd bus to which connected following devices oil sensor, alternator regulator, ibs sensor, electic water pump when some of these items is bad it can disturb bus and dme cannot communicate with other members you need to disconnect them from bus by one if you have experience and check dme errors, if some errors will gone __________________ E81 2007 130i 6cylinder Montego blue Retrofits: Harman Kardon, High-beam assistant, Removable tow hitch. Auto-dim folding exterior mirrors. Lumbar support. Perfomance Brakes.
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12-30-2018, 05:24 AM	#3
rt7085 Private 30 Rep 71 Posts Drives: E91 328xi wagon / Mercedes GTS Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: West Newton, MA iTrader: (0)	I would check all the ground connections everywhere. When these break, you get Gremlins living in your car, especially because it is intermittent in nature in the beginning. Such issues cause lotsa KCAN and ECU codes at the same time as well as odd behavior (like your wipers going by themselves). There is a main engine strap is on the driver side between the chassis and the engine mount. There is typically another ignition related strap between the head and chassis on the passenger side. Also inspect (and tighten down) all grounding point junctions, especially near or inside the DME box. Look them all up in https://www.newtis.info. They are known to rot after 100k. Mine are too.
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