[NathanK24]

I recently replaced rotors and pads with zimmermann/akebono OEM replacements. After that process, I bled the brakes with an actron vacuum pump. Can confirm I never let the level below minimum. My pedal does not feel as firm as before. I do not get the initial bite I had before as well, but guessing that is due to brakes needing to be broken in. The pedal is not super soft and definitely works well (for bed in).

Now, I am guessing I need to bleed my ABS pump. Is there any way I can do this without taking off all my wheels and going corner by corner again? Basically, any way to just activate it like coolant bleed? I have heard INPA, but not sure if that functionality is what I want to do (the route of not removing everything). Also, would bimmergeeks protool do the trick?

Thanks!

[mecheng77]

You shouldn’t need to bleed your abs unless you replace it. I always do gravity bleed then do a few manual bleed operations. Tap the calipers with deadblow to remove any air bubbles

[TGTIW]

Your brakes will always feel slightly soft immediately after bleeding them. If it's been more than a couple of days since you've done the procedure I would look into re-bleeding. Otherwise give it a couple of days and the pedal should firm up.

[mxchris727]

My brakes felt the same way after replacing them with akebonos on my 5 series. My buddy too had the same experience on his M5 and hated it so much that he went with the OEM Pagid pads. No issues after that. I'm thinking of ditching them as well; they make the car feel not nearly as aggressive.

[NathanK24]

Thanks for all your input. I'm gonna give them a few days and see if it gets any better. Definitely not awful at the moment, just not impressed at this point in the break in.

By the way, on my road trip today I kept hearing a clicking noise coming from the driver front wheel well during braking. This got faster/slower with wheel speed. I assumed my pads were rattling, but then halfway through the drive I got minimum pad thickness warning. Could that mean my sensor was clicking against rotor and ultimately came loose or somehow made a ground with an unintended piece of metal, therefore setting the fault? Brake performance did not change and no smoke, smells, etc.

[Fritzer]

Originally Posted by NathanK24

Could that mean my sensor was clicking against rotor and ultimately came loose or somehow made a ground with an unintended piece of metal, therefore setting the fault? Brake performance did not change and no smoke, smells, etc.

I would imagine your sensor got loose, seems to be the only logical answer considering the noise and the fact you just put new pads in. Maybe you forgot to properly clip in back in, or one of the clips just broke and wiggled it loose.

Either way check it, the sensor is grounding on something it shouldn't.

[ric]

Recently changed my rotors and pads on front and bleed, afterwards its not like it used to be. All oem parts.

[alfazrus]

I don't know why are you guys trying to bleed the brakes after a pad and rotor change?

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

INPA will run the pump. Another classic way is by doing a hard stop in a gravel parking lot. I've heard that tends to help.

[NathanK24]

Originally Posted by alfazrus

I don't know why are you guys trying to bleed the brakes after a pad and rotor change?

Before doing my pads and rotors I took some fluid out of the reservoir. It was a bit dirty and around the time my fluid needed to be done. Also, thought it would increase pedal firmness after hardware swap. Really just fell around same time, and had free time because holidays.

[ric]

Originally Posted by alfazrus

I don't know why are you guys trying to bleed the brakes after a pad and rotor change?

after changing rotor and pads brakes where soft. gave it day or two still soft. first car I had to bleed after not opening the system. when I bled the brakes air came out, go figure. buddy said something about a seal rolling or sumthin idk.

[NathanK24]

Originally Posted by TGTIW

Your brakes will always feel slightly soft immediately after bleeding them. If it's been more than a couple of days since you've done the procedure I would look into re-bleeding. Otherwise give it a couple of days and the pedal should firm up.

After a few days and a little ABS in the ice, my pedal is back to normal firmness. Still gotta look into that sensor I mentioned.

[NathanK24]

If anyone was curious, it was the sensor. The part that connects to the pad did not come loose, but the inside of the wheel was hitting the sensor cable. This basically cut it open, and exposed the wiring. Hopefully picking up a new one tomorrow and routing it more carefully.