[Ghazikhalaf]

So i bought all new spark plugs and coils, I bough a spark plug socket specifaclly for the n54 since it needs a special socket. Every spark plug came out easy besides the last of course. When i would go put the socket on the plug, the socket wont not go on if it wasnt the right socket but it was. I looked at the 12 point on the plug and it looked rusted and stripped. I took a 11 mm socket and put jb weld in it and slid it into the plug hoping it will bond and let me take the plug out. 24 hours later and i tried to take the spark plug out and right away it snapped free, but not the plug. The top half of the plug broke off. The thing is there is till the center piece left in the bottom, so what is stuck isnt hollow and i dont know how to take it out. please help!

[blueloco]

The Ford community has some experience with broken plugs, maybe look there for some guidance. One trick my mechanic friend taught me is give it a little twist in the tighten direction first. I am still skeptical but he has removed 1000's more plugs that I have so.. respect. The theory is a twist in the clockwise direction breaks free some of the carbon and allows for easier removal.

I have dealt with the ford plugs that just shoot out.. a model year later they just snap off I guess. Haven't had that pleasure personally but here: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/en...8-spark-plugs/

[ckanderson]

I'd see if the Ford solution will work, otherwise I foresee you pulling that head off. Best of luck

[Ghazikhalaf]

Originally Posted by blueloco

The Ford community has some experience with broken plugs, maybe look there for some guidance. One trick my mechanic friend taught me is give it a little twist in the tighten direction first. I am still skeptical but he has removed 1000's more plugs that I have so.. respect. The theory is a twist in the clockwise direction breaks free some of the carbon and allows for easier removal.

I have dealt with the ford plugs that just shoot out.. a model year later they just snap off I guess. Haven't had that pleasure personally but here: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/en...8-spark-plugs/

I see where you're coming from, the thing is, the porcelain (white part of spark plugs) is still stuck in the bottom half, so its acting like a plug

[Ghazikhalaf]

Just like this

[blueloco]

Mercy.. left hand drill bits? easy outs?

[ctuna]

http://www.tigraionline.com/broken_sparkplug.html

good luck

[Ghazikhalaf]

I have the easy out and drill bit ready, the thing is i dont want any debri going into the cylinder, ill try tommorow but i dont think it will work.

[Ghazikhalaf]

Originally Posted by blueloco

The Ford community has some experience with broken plugs, maybe look there for some guidance. One trick my mechanic friend taught me is give it a little twist in the tighten direction first. I am still skeptical but he has removed 1000's more plugs that I have so.. respect. The theory is a twist in the clockwise direction breaks free some of the carbon and allows for easier removal.

I have dealt with the ford plugs that just shoot out.. a model year later they just snap off I guess. Haven't had that pleasure personally but here: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/en...8-spark-plugs/

Autozone actually carrys this as a loaner, so im gonna try the easy out, and if doesnt work, will do the ford method.

[RayLivingston]

I don't see any way you safely fix that without removing the head. If the ceramic came completely out (which is near imposslble, since it is crimped into the steel outer piece), you could use the easy out. With the ceramic still in there, the easy out will not go in. Break the ceramic, and small pieces go into the cylinder, where they WILL do damage to the pistons, rings, and bores, likely trashing the whole engine. Ceramic is very, VERY hard - much harder than steel.

Regards,
Ray L.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by RayLivingston

I don't see any way you safely fix that without removing the head. If the ceramic came completely out (which is near imposslble, since it is crimped into the steel outer piece), you could use the easy out. With the ceramic still in there, the easy out will not go in. Break the ceramic, and small pieces go into the cylinder, where they WILL do damage to the pistons, rings, and bores, likely trashing the whole engine. Ceramic is very, VERY hard - much harder than steel.

Regards,
Ray L.

Aha I know this might be a really dumb question but couldn't you get a vacuum attachment that is as small as the spark plug hole and clean it that way.

Or close the exhaust valves and shoot air and vacuum attachment on the intake valve side?

[ckanderson]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Aha I know this might be a really dumb question but couldn't you get a vacuum attachment that is as small as the spark plug hole and clean it that way.

Or close the exhaust valves and shoot air and vacuum attachment on the intake valve side?

That's a lot of hoping you got everything out

[PichaDis11]

Originally Posted by ckanderson

That's a lot of hoping you got everything out

Not that I like this idea either but possibly the little mini cameras to inspect while vacuuming?

Subbed.

[ctuna]

Vacuuming the area and making sure its clean would be the first thing to
do on . If you get it to spin I would vacuum again before removing all
the way.

https://www.championautoparts.com/Te...park-Plug.html

Gets some knocker loose or crc foam seems to be the conclusion.

[Ghazikhalaf]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Vacuuming the area and making sure its clean would be the first thing to
do on . If you get it to spin I would vacuum again before removing all
the way.

https://www.championautoparts.com/Te...park-Plug.html

Gets some knocker loose or crc foam seems to be the conclusion.

I see where you are coming from but there the bottom half which is stuck isnt hallow

[ckanderson]

Originally Posted by PichaDis11

Not that I like this idea either but possibly the little mini cameras to inspect while vacuuming?

Subbed.

My worry is a chip of porcelain scratching the wall of the cylinder, or getting caught between the valve and the seat. (If you break through the plug)

Might not see it on the camera.

Once again, best of luck. Shitty situation for sure

[Ghazikhalaf]

Im gonna go through with removing the head, is there any tips or intructions on how to do it?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Ghazikhalaf

Im gonna go through with removing the head, is there any tips or intructions on how to do it?

Wow, what an issue. I'd be concerned on why the plug is stuck in the first place, meaning if you get it out what will the threads in the head be like. The best I can tell by the photo is the plug body broke from the threaded section in the head, leaving some of the ceramic insulator. If the plug broke in that fashion, I can't see how trying to extract it with the various screw-extractor methods will have the grip to overcome whatever is mechanically binding the plug threads in the spark plug hole. But I'd try trying to first remove it while the head is on the block is I think the first option. I see no advantage to pulling the head other than getting to the plug end from the cylinder side, but if its locked in the treads in the plug hole, I don't see that is an advantage. Plus you'll have to clamp the head in a vice to keep it from moving; bolted to the block, it's not going to move.

Here's what I'd try first.

- Remove the right-side struct brace to get as much working room as possible. The bolthead on the cowl is a 18 Torx socket IIRC. A 9/16ths 12-point socket works as well.
- Buy a vernier caliper to measure the various diameters you'll need to measure.
- Take an old plug and cut it open in similar fashion to how the broken plug is situated. You can then get the measurements of the inside of the plug body and ceramic insulator, rather than guessing.
- If the ceramic is still in the body, you will probably need to drill it to the proper diameter for the easy out. Used a drill bit meant to drill glass/ceramics, or concrete as a last resort. I'd try to drill out the entire ceramic insulator and get to the metal body that is the remaining threaded plug body.
- Practice. Set the plug you cut up in a vice. Practice drilling the ceramic and getting the easyout to bite into the remaining material.
- Soak the plug in the head for a day with penetrating oil. I prefer Kroil, but you can only order it on line. PB Blaster is pretty good too.
- Once the plug is out, I don't see why TheMidnightNarwhal suggestion of vacuuming the cylinder out would not work as long as the cylinder remains dry. If you vacuum the cylinder either use a rubber/plastic hose attached to a vacuum cleaner or rig up something that threads (plugs in the hole - like a rubber cork drilled in the center to accept the vacuum tubing) in the plug hole to get a real good vacuum on it. As long as you don't rotate the engine any ceramic pieces would hurt anything just sitting in the cylinder.

If that doesn't work, then pull the head and let an automotive machine shop remove the plug.

Good luck with it.

[RayLivingston]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Wow, what an issue. I'd be concerned on why the plug is stuck in the first place, meaning if you get it out what will the threads in the head be like. The best I can tell by the photo is the plug body broke from the threaded section in the head, leaving some of the ceramic insulator. If the plug broke in that fashion, I can't see how trying to extract it with the various screw-extractor methods will have the grip to overcome whatever is mechanically binding the plug threads in the spark plug hole. But I'd try trying to first remove it while the head is on the block is I think the first option. I see no advantage to pulling the head other than getting to the plug end from the cylinder side, but if its locked in the treads in the plug hole, I don't see that is an advantage. Plus you'll have to clamp the head in a vice to keep it from moving; bolted to the block, it's not going to move.

Here's what I'd try first.

- Remove the right-side struct brace to get as much working room as possible. The bolthead on the cowl is a 18 Torx socket IIRC. A 9/16ths 12-point socket works as well.
- Buy a vernier caliper to measure the various diameters you'll need to measure.
- Take an old plug and cut it open in similar fashion to how the broken plug is situated. You can then get the measurements of the inside of the plug body and ceramic insulator, rather than guessing.
- If the ceramic is still in the body, you will probably need to drill it to the proper diameter for the easy out. Used a drill bit meant to drill glass/ceramics, or concrete as a last resort. I'd try to drill out the entire ceramic insulator and get to the metal body that is the remaining threaded plug body.
- Practice. Set the plug you cut up in a vice. Practice drilling the ceramic and getting the easyout to bite into the remaining material.
- Soak the plug in the head for a day with penetrating oil. I prefer Kroil, but you can only order it on line. PB Blaster is pretty good too.
- Once the plug is out, I don't see why TheMidnightNarwhal suggestion of vacuuming the cylinder out would not work as long as the cylinder remains dry. If you vacuum the cylinder either use a rubber/plastic hose attached to a vacuum cleaner or rig up something that threads (plugs in the hole - like a rubber cork drilled in the center to accept the vacuum tubing) in the plug hole to get a real good vacuum on it. As long as you don't rotate the engine any ceramic pieces would hurt anything just sitting in the cylinder.

If that doesn't work, then pull the head and let an automotive machine shop remove the plug.

Good luck with it.

What you suggest will put a TON of ceramic chips and ceramic dust into the cylinder. You might as well just pour in a teaspoon of sand, or ground glass. Shortly after the engine is re-started, that cylinder WILL be trashed, and a complete engine rebuild will be required. There is NO way to ensure no ceramic gets in the cylinder, and NO way to ensure you get it all out after it does. Even a single chip can be enough to do serious damage.

Removing the head is the ONLY safe way to fix this.

Regards,
Ray L.

[ckanderson]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Wow, what an issue. I'd be concerned on why the plug is stuck in the first place, meaning if you get it out what will the threads in the head be like. The best I can tell by the photo is the plug body broke from the threaded section in the head, leaving some of the ceramic insulator. If the plug broke in that fashion, I can't see how trying to extract it with the various screw-extractor methods will have the grip to overcome whatever is mechanically binding the plug threads in the spark plug hole. But I'd try trying to first remove it while the head is on the block is I think the first option. I see no advantage to pulling the head other than getting to the plug end from the cylinder side, but if its locked in the treads in the plug hole, I don't see that is an advantage. Plus you'll have to clamp the head in a vice to keep it from moving; bolted to the block, it's not going to move.

Here's what I'd try first.

- Remove the right-side struct brace to get as much working room as possible. The bolthead on the cowl is a 18 Torx socket IIRC. A 9/16ths 12-point socket works as well.
- Buy a vernier caliper to measure the various diameters you'll need to measure.
- Take an old plug and cut it open in similar fashion to how the broken plug is situated. You can then get the measurements of the inside of the plug body and ceramic insulator, rather than guessing.
- If the ceramic is still in the body, you will probably need to drill it to the proper diameter for the easy out. Used a drill bit meant to drill glass/ceramics, or concrete as a last resort. I'd try to drill out the entire ceramic insulator and get to the metal body that is the remaining threaded plug body.
- Practice. Set the plug you cut up in a vice. Practice drilling the ceramic and getting the easyout to bite into the remaining material.
- Soak the plug in the head for a day with penetrating oil. I prefer Kroil, but you can only order it on line. PB Blaster is pretty good too.
- Once the plug is out, I don't see why TheMidnightNarwhal suggestion of vacuuming the cylinder out would not work as long as the cylinder remains dry. If you vacuum the cylinder either use a rubber/plastic hose attached to a vacuum cleaner or rig up something that threads (plugs in the hole - like a rubber cork drilled in the center to accept the vacuum tubing) in the plug hole to get a real good vacuum on it. As long as you don't rotate the engine any ceramic pieces would hurt anything just sitting in the cylinder.

If that doesn't work, then pull the head and let an automotive machine shop remove the plug.

Good luck with it.

"Plug the hole to get a real good vacuum on it"

Lol what?

Have you ever used a vacuum?

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by PichaDis11

Not that I like this idea either but possibly the little mini cameras to inspect while vacuuming?

Subbed.

Exactly, that's what was I was going to add to.

To confirm your work just look inside with a camera.

You can get bore-scope cameras that won't break the bank.

But as I see from other replies, I didn't realize just sracthing the cyl a bit can cause terrible issues.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by ckanderson

"Plug the hole to get a real good vacuum on it"

Lol what?

Have you ever used a vacuum?

Noooo never. Genius.