12-01-2018, 01:59 AM | #1 |
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How to get M2 onto jack stands?
I'm looking to buy a jack and jack stands so that I can do some routine maintenance, such as oil changes and brakes, on my 2018 M2.
I can not seem to find a low profile jack that has a long enough chassis to reach the front center lift point shown in another post I found on this forum (e.g. https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1306220 ), that would allow me to put jack stands under the lifting points along the side rockers. I have measured from the front lip of the bumper to that front center lift point and it measures almost 38 inches, but the longest jack chassis I can find is the Arcan XL2T Black Low Profile Steel Service Jack which only has a 32 inch chassis (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007G83T16..._t5_B00FN9F69I ). Another thread in this forum had a link to a Compac model jack listed at $625 that might work ( http://www.reverselogic.us/jacks---l...tegory=6233010 ), but there is no way I'm paying that much for a car jack... Can any of you guys give me some tips on how to get this car up off the ground and onto some jack stands without shelling out ridiculous cash for QuickJacks? Brian L 2018 MG M2 - Dinan STG1, Fabspeed DP, Wagner EVO Comp II FMIC |
12-01-2018, 04:49 AM | #2 |
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Ok here are a few methods to get your car on jack stands that I can think of if you dont have a super low profile jack, a lift, or quick jacks. Just be cautious as this can be risky and I will not be responsible for any bad out comes.
1) Jack the car up on the side jacking points like usual and put a few blocks of wood under the front tires or bricks, something sturdy and strong. Then the car will be high enough at the front for the jack to reach the center jack point. Do the same for the rear then you can use a circle or square pad jack to put a jack pad adapter on it and then place it under the jacking point. After that use the front center jacking point to lower the car onto the jack stands. For the rear use the control arm/subframe link spot (cant think of the word but here is the thread that shows ithttps://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1036675) 2) Jack the car up using the jack points, and instead of using jack stands place the car onto a ramp which are pretty cheap at local auto parts stores like canadian tire, autozone, auto value, princess auto etc. (Most of these places are canadian so go to a parts store local to you if these arent available.) 3) This may not be optimal but there are shops where you can rent a bay for cheap if the above options are not feasible. I hope I was able to help out! |
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12-01-2018, 06:00 AM | #3 |
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Not sure if this will help you but I do it with two jacks - one small and one large.
I have a low profile jack (short like you mentioned) and another low profile jack that is long and rated for 3000kg - but it is not low enough on its own to reach the centre jack point in the front. I use the smaller jack on the front side to lift the front, enough to slide my larger jack under to the centre point. Once I get that under, I jack it up and put in the jack stands on the front two points. I then use large jack on the rear differential bar to lift up the rear, and put the next two jack stands on. |
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12-01-2018, 07:48 PM | #4 |
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Is driving the front wheels on a couple 2x6s or 2x8s enough clearance to get a non-low-profile jack under the car?
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12-01-2018, 08:40 PM | #5 |
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Maybe, but it depends on how thick your jack is. Best way to figure it out is measure the height of your jack, and the height of the m2 + the thickness of the wood in this case 2".
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12-01-2018, 09:59 PM | #6 |
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For oil changes or down pipe changes, I just jack each side up and put a ramp under each front wheel. Nice and stable.
I have also drove onto a couple 2x6’s under the fronts, then jack from Center jack point and carefully lowered onto stands that were on the side points (which is a terribly unstable process as my jack releases quite fast). I don’t do this anymore. Wheel swaps I just jack one side at a time and do it while car is on the jack. The jack lifts the whole side of car, so both wheels at the same time. I swap one wheel at a time. I break the torque of the lugs first before lifting. |
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Karlosm2c290.50 |
12-02-2018, 01:23 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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12-02-2018, 01:39 AM | #8 |
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I bought safe jacks:
You can jack and use jack stands under the same jack point. |
12-02-2018, 02:32 AM | #9 | |
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I know the guy in the video said each bolt had a 900lbs sheer strength but man that seems super sketchy how the bolts only slot in. Does it feel stable when you're really working on the car? |
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chief1richard381.00 |
12-02-2018, 02:39 AM | #10 |
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This was the other option I saw that looked alot sturdier as it's all 1 solid piece and has four legs. http://www.jackpointjackstands.com
But at $300/piece it's quick jack money for a set of four. |
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chief1richard381.00 |
12-02-2018, 11:50 AM | #11 | ||
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Quote:
Pins are really strong- it's the sheer strength that matters. Stable as any other jack stands. One of the biggest benefits over quickjacks is that these are portable and come handy to the track. |
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12-02-2018, 02:31 PM | #12 | |
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What I meant is if the pins are tight and not loose, so when the car is moving slightly from you working on it, it won't eventually work itself out. How high did it go again? I look at a YouTube video and it didn't look high enough to crawl under. Maybe it was because the guy didn't out it high enough. I couldn't use this on my track because the pits are either grass or gravel and the parking lot is too far from the main track. That's also why quick Jack's are great especially if you have a support truck. (For use on gravel of course because they'd be more stable, grass is pretty much useless for jacking up the car) |
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12-02-2018, 02:56 PM | #13 |
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Not sure how you got these under your car to fit. I bought a pair and they're useless because they're too tall.
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?16 M2 Long Beach Blue/Black, 6MT
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12-02-2018, 04:45 PM | #14 |
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12-02-2018, 08:41 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
Not sure why they didn't work for you. I have used these a few times already and did not have any issues with the height. |
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12-02-2018, 09:24 PM | #16 |
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What's the difference between the red ones and black and silver? Maybe thicknesses for different weight classes? It could be the reason it didn't work.
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12-03-2018, 12:14 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
Stats from the page: height adjustable from 11.5 to 16.5 inches. Supports 3 tons. |
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12-04-2018, 03:58 PM | #18 |
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I have the arcan jack and 4 esco stands. I use another jack on one of the side jacking points to get the front high enough so i can get the arcan jack far enough under the car to hit that front point without damaging my bumper. I reverse the process on the way back down.
Getting the back up with the arcan jack is a bit tricky, I've learned to rotate that plate on the saddle around so that the subframe sits in the valley between the raised portions. It's a tight fit as the diff and exhaust are right there. To be honest with you, I really wish I had just put the funds towards a quickjack - the jack and stands probably got me near halfway there $$-wise, half my time swapping wheels is devoted to getting this car in the air, and even then I've never felt super safe with the rear center jacking point (you can see my post in that first thread you linked to). |
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12-05-2018, 02:56 PM | #20 |
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12-06-2018, 12:17 PM | #21 | |
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I got myself a QuickJack so that's my approach now. In the past, I lifted the car at the side lift points and then just put a jack jack stand under suspension components and lowered. That's not really ideal since it probably won't be as stable and choosing the right suspension part to use for jacking can be a challenge. |
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Karlosm2c290.50 |
12-08-2018, 04:08 AM | #22 |
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I watched some BMW techs swapping wheels from side to side at Brands Hatch last summer. They put the big trolley jack under the rear point and lifted until there was clearance to but an axle stand under the front point. Then did the same on the other side.
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