[nuron]

Earlier today, I drove my car for a bit and then locked it. When I tried to unlock it, the remote wouldn't work and I had to use my key. The car started okay but the heat settings and digital speedo setting was all different. Is there a module that relates to these issues? I had a dipped beam error as well but that might be another problem in itself. This is my most used key so it gets charged a lot by being in the key slot. Thanks

[CantComplain]

Originally Posted by nuron

Earlier today, I drove my car for a bit and then locked it. When I tried to unlock it, the remote wouldn't work and I had to use my key. The car started okay but the heat settings and digital speedo setting was all different. Is there a module that relates to these issues? I had a dipped beam error as well but that might be another problem in itself. This is my most used key so it gets charged a lot by being in the key slot. Thanks

I would guess it's the battery in the key. If it's a comfort access key, the battery is an easy swap and it's cheap. use the other one for a while and see if the same behavior. If it's non-CA, the battery is replaceable if you can solder, but there are a lot of reports of them not not working as a remote afterwards. I'm trying to figure this out myself right now.

Even if it's non-CA and being charged regularly, it's still a battery and it won't last forever. I'd use Key #2 if it's behaving and use the other as an emergency backup.

[nuron]

I guess that makes sense. I'll start using my other key and also see how often this keeps happening. Have you seen this post?

"After reading that your remote wasn't working after replacing the battery, I devised a way to keep power on the circuit board while replacing the battery.

I put two D cell batteries together and connected wires to the positive and negative terminals, I soldered the other ends to the remote circuit board and then used alligator clips to hold the wires to the board. Then I de-soldered the old battery and soldered in a new one. the remote works perfectly, now I just need to clean up the edges of the fob case and glue it back together. The battery was $9.00 on Ebay. Make sure you order the correct mount.

OBTW, the VL2020 is a lithium ion battery; you can't test it like a normal battery. It may show 3.0 volts when you check it with a multi-meter, but it may not be producing any amperage."

[ctuna]

No taking the fob apart for charging with the above.

[CantComplain]

Yes, I did see that post and tried to do that. But I couldn't figure out a way to keep leads from a backup battery connected while removing the other battery. On amazon I read a lot of reviews about it working without doing that and figured I may as well try. I tried to minimize the time with no power and probably kept it under 1 minute.

I had tried to charge with the sonicare with the old battery and it remained about .6v. About 2v with the new battery and 3v after charging it with the sonicare.

Originally Posted by nuron

I guess that makes sense. I'll start using my other key and also see how often this keeps happening. Have you seen this post?

"After reading that your remote wasn't working after replacing the battery, I devised a way to keep power on the circuit board while replacing the battery.

I put two D cell batteries together and connected wires to the positive and negative terminals, I soldered the other ends to the remote circuit board and then used alligator clips to hold the wires to the board. Then I de-soldered the old battery and soldered in a new one. the remote works perfectly, now I just need to clean up the edges of the fob case and glue it back together. The battery was $9.00 on Ebay. Make sure you order the correct mount.

OBTW, the VL2020 is a lithium ion battery; you can't test it like a normal battery. It may show 3.0 volts when you check it with a multi-meter, but it may not be producing any amperage."