[rich123321]

Just installed some new bulbs. Coded out the cold and warm checks and I can see the LEDs very dimly lit. I am not sure if they shut off after a while when the car goes to sleep but I am not sure what the issue is. My E90 never did this with any of the LED bulbs I put in

[Billfitz]

For whatever reason fogs require a resistor even with coding. Mine didn't stay dimly lit, instead they flickered at a very low intensity. Only the fogs, not the high or low beams. I added 15 ohm 50 watt resistors parallel to the fogs before the LED drivers, end of flickering.

[rich123321]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

For whatever reason fogs require a resistor even with coding. Mine didn't stay dimly lit, instead they flickered at a very low intensity. Only the fogs, not the high or low beams. I added 15 ohm 50 watt resistors parallel to the fogs before the LED drivers, end of flickering.

Any harnesses that are around? I don't want to tap or solder anything

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by rich123321

Any harnesses that are around?

All the ones I've seen use 6 ohm resistors. Those suckers get hot, and stress the wiring, because a 6 ohm resistor at 12 volts burns 24 watts. I tested a few resistors, found that even 30 ohms stopped the flickering, went with these 15 ohm because they were readily available:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They only drop 10 watts, so they stay cool and don't stress the wiring.

Creating a harness isn't rocket science. I used these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[rich123321]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

All the ones I've seen use 6 ohm resistors. Those suckers get hot, and stress the wiring, because a 6 ohm resistor at 12 volts burns 24 watts. I tested a few resistors, found that even 30 ohms stopped the flickering, went with these 15 ohm because they were readily available:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They only drop 10 watts, so they stay cool and don't stress the wiring.

Creating a harness isn't rocket science. I used these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I see. So strip the two wires from each extension cable and attach these exposed wires to two free wires from the resistor. Any recommendations on what gauge of wire to use to connect the resistor? It says it is 16 gauge wire on the harness

Edit- Set it up like this for each harness?

[evdok]

Mine do the same & ive tried 2 different LED's.

[rich123321]

Originally Posted by evdok

Mine do the same & ive tried 2 different LED's.

So I am assuming you just let it be? I guess it isn't too noticable

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by rich123321

I see. So strip the two wires from each extension cable and attach these exposed wires to two free wires from the resistor. Any recommendations on what gauge of wire to use to connect the resistor? It says it is 16 gauge wire on the harness

Edit- Set it up like this for each harness?

That's how it's done. Since the resistor only drops 10 watts even 24 gauge wire is sufficient, but to use solderless connectors it's best that the gauge be the same as that of the harness wire. Done as in the picture with soldered connections and shrink wrap tubing is more secure. Find a bit of metal near the fogs with a hole already in it to bolt the resistor to, use long enough leads to it to leave some slack. I doubt the resistor would even approach being warm enough to melt a plastic mounting spot, but there's no point in tempting fate.

[evdok]

They all go out after a few minuites when the car shuts down complete power.

[rich123321]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

That's how it's done. Since the resistor only drops 10 watts even 24 gauge wire is sufficient, but to use solderless connectors it's best that the gauge be the same as that of the harness wire. Done as in the picture with soldered connections and shrink wrap tubing is more secure. Find a bit of metal near the fogs with a hole already in it to bolt the resistor to, use long enough leads to it to leave some slack. I doubt the resistor would even approach being warm enough to melt a plastic mounting spot, but there's no point in tempting fate.

Thanks man. I don't have any soldering skills well enough to do something like this (even though its fairly basic). I ordered the parts and my dad is going to help with the assembly and show me the ropes

[Billfitz]

Soldering is beyond simple.There's only one rule: heat the work, not the solder. If you heat the solder and drip it onto cold wire it won't bond. Heat the wire, then touch the solder to the hot wire.

[Mwahab]

I do not understand whats the problem of dimming you are talking about, can you please show us a video or sth?

i already coded and LED bulbs for the fog lights on mine and alot of other cars, removed flickering and errors.
there are alot of various regarding dimming that we can play with, just illustrate for me whats ur problem

[Billfitz]

There's no need for a video. For whatever reason there's a low level current going to the fogs even when the ignition is off. It eventually goes off, so it must be controlled by the same timer circuit as the auxiliary outlets. Depending on the specific LED/canbus driver configuration in some cases the fogs run at a low level, in some cases they flicker at a low level, and coding doesn't stop it, adding a resistor does. If you haven't experienced it then you're using different LED/canbus drivers than those of us who have experienced it.

[Mwahab]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

There's no need for a video. For whatever reason there's a low level current going to the fogs even when the ignition is off. It eventually goes off, so it must be controlled by the same timer circuit as the auxiliary outlets. Depending on the specific LED/canbus driver configuration in some cases the fogs run at a low level, in some cases they flicker at a low level, and coding doesn't stop it, adding a resistor does. If you haven't experienced it then you're using different LED/canbus drivers than those of us who have experienced it.

Got the picture now!

Have you ever tried to play with dimming values?

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by Mwahab

Have you ever tried to play with dimming values?

No. I only coded off the cold and warm checks and made LED active. It only does this with the fogs, not the headlights, nor the reverse lights, and since adding a resistor fixed it I didn't bother to investigate further.

[rich123321]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

No. I only coded off the cold and warm checks and made LED active. It only does this with the fogs, not the headlights, nor the reverse lights, and since adding a resistor fixed it I didn't bother to investigate further.

Just an update, I built the harness using the parts you linked above. It was my first solder job ever and I am happy to report so far so good! I used some black RTV silicone to seal the exposed wires so it is drying overnight. Upon some quick tests using spare bulbs and pulling the wiring harness from outside the fender liner, the LEDs no longer appear to be dimly lit when the car is off and locked. After removing the built harness and plugging directly into the stock harness, the dimming returns! Will report back with final images tomorrow

[Levanius]

I've got led bulbs also. Dimming goes off after a while.

[Billfitz]

Originally Posted by Levanius

I've got led bulbs also. Dimming goes off after a while.

Eventually the power management system will shut it down, just as it does with the power outlets. But since fixing it is so easy there's no reason not to.

[Levanius]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Eventually the power management system will shut it down, just as it does with the power outlets. But since fixing it is so easy there's no reason not to.

Done.

[Billfitz]

If that's a 15 ohm resistor it probably won't get hot enough to melt that plastic tie, but if it's 6 ohm it will. Even though I used 15 ohm I bolted them to a metal tang that already had a hole in it, because the only way I'd find out that they got hot enough to melt plastic ties would have been after bad things happened.

[Levanius]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

If that's a 15 ohm resistor it probably won't get hot enough to melt that plastic tie, but if it's 6 ohm it will. Even though I used 15 ohm I bolted them to a metal tang that already had a hole in it, because the only way I'd find out that they got hot enough to melt plastic ties would have been after bad things happened.

It's a 15 ohm. I will check that.
Thanks

[Aria97]

I have changed my f30 fog lights to f32 led fog lights and done the coding, there is no error on the car and also no flickering, but there is just one problem, one little LED of the fog lights is always one even when the car is off, as you can see in the picture. and in another picture I have shown the amount of light it has at night.

I was wondering is there any way to make this little LED off?! maybe by coding?!

and If there is nothing I can do about it, doesn’t it drains the battry that i should worry about?!


the coding i have done is this:

FEM_BODY

3061 NSW_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG -> nicht_aktiv : LED Foglights front right
3061 NSW_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG -> nicht_aktiv : LED Foglights front right
3061 NSW_R_IS_LED -> aktiv : LED Foglights front right
3062 MAPPING_ABBIEGEL_R_PWM_LEVEL_1 -> 100% : LED Foglights front right
3061 NSW_R_UE_SPG_SCHUTZ -> dimmed : LED Foglights front right
3063 MAPPING_NEBELSCHW_R_PWM_LEVEL_1 -> 100% : LED Foglights front right

3061 NSW_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG -> nicht_aktiv : LED Foglights front left
3061 NSW_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG -> nicht_aktiv : LED Foglights front left
3061 NSW_L_IS_LED -> aktiv : LED Foglights front left
3061 NSW_L_UE_SPG_SCHUTZ -> dimmed : LED Foglights front left
3063 MAPPING_NEBELSCHW_L_PWM_LEVEL_1 -> 100% : LED Foglights front left
3062 MAPPING_ABBIEGEL_L_PWM_LEVEL_1 -> 100% : LED Foglights front left