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Next best thing for handling/suspension after coilovers?
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03-24-2017, 12:36 PM | #4 |
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For handling, tires are everything.
For 'suspension', good luck my friend. This is a god damn minefield of misinformation because it is such a complicated topic. There is an unbelievable amount of math going on in your suspension and modifications tend to have a lot of repercussions. I enjoy the videos from engineering explained. I recommend you start with this one since others are just tossing out random parts like sway bars and spaces, etc. |
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YasF80_SLO233.00 Jarrod72.50 |
03-24-2017, 01:51 PM | #8 |
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03-24-2017, 01:53 PM | #9 |
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03-24-2017, 02:03 PM | #11 |
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Complete agreement on this. Bars come after everything else.
Get the spring rate & dampers sorted for the desired ride height, preferably on scales so you can see how it effects corner balance. If you have a RWD car the best you're gunna be able to find is the Ohlins R&T's from PSI in Sonoma. At just shy of $2k a set with springs, dampers and bump stops, they are a screaming bargain for what they are. The next best option would be an Ohlins TTX setup, but bring real money, and prepare to rebuild them often. They are essentially full race suspension. I'm not even going to compare these to Bilstein, Koni or KW, because these just isn't any comparison. Next thing I'd worry about is all the torn up bushings. These cars OE bushings are garbage, especially on the thrust arms. Once you have all that sorted, then you can consider bars. These cars are set up from the factory to understeer, and even the M3 understeers, so when you hear people talking about front bars, take a deep breath and then laugh hysterically at them. Because surely,once you have your suspension sorted, the next thing to do would be add even more understeer, right? An adjustable REAR bar with rate adjustments from stock upwards would be my advice.
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STR8-6IX537.00 Dan Bilzerian354.50 |
03-24-2017, 02:07 PM | #12 |
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So does getting the spring rate set properly and matching the damper rates.
I've set up race cars for nearly 2 decades and bars are the LAST thing you worry about. They will mask a whole host of other setup issues tat will compromise grip, handling, etc. STR8-6IX is dead right here.
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STR8-6IX537.00 |
03-24-2017, 03:04 PM | #13 | |
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what do you think of aftermarket polyurethane bushings? I've heard that the ride is too stiff, others have said that its only really good for the track, then others say that they are shit quality. (I have a RWD f10 btw) anyways, as of right now I am debating between lowering springs or coilovers. I feel like my stock dampers are decently setup, so I am not sure which to go with. I feel like its best to just opt for the coilovers and do it right the first time, but I am concerned that the ride will be horrendous on toronto roads so i am looking for opinions. It is best to have coilovers tuned and adjusted by someone who knows their stuff right? is it possible to find a set that will have a decent ride over poor roads, or is it best to just leave the stock suspension alone in this regard? as of right now, I am not sure what to do with my suspension. |
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03-24-2017, 03:19 PM | #15 |
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This^^^
And don't do coils until all your bushings are in good shape..
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03-24-2017, 03:25 PM | #16 |
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And coils are last thing after you've freshened all bushings. And OE bushings are best unless you want poly fcabs
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03-24-2017, 03:54 PM | #17 | |
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Forget all the tune stuff until you have completed 1) driving lessons, basic and track 2) tires So you dropped X_k_$ on mods and driving to your max; you just got passed, while I was listening to easy jazz, Sade. . and I didn't notice you! PS: $300 on track day instruction will do far more than $300 of 'modified front air dam / spoiler / splitter / coilovers / whatever' Last edited by 335udm; 03-24-2017 at 04:10 PM.. |
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Dan Bilzerian354.50 |
03-24-2017, 04:10 PM | #18 |
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For a street car, I'd generally advise against these. poly bushings do not age well, and need to be replaced every couple of seasons. what you end up seeing, is that the bushing starts to deform after while, and sticks in the deformed shape, causing play at the center shaft inside the bushing.
People I know that run poly on their race cars tell me they replace them every season. A better solution for a daily driver are harder rubber bushings. |
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03-24-2017, 04:37 PM | #19 |
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corner balance / alignment
tires m3 arms if your control arm bushings are worn sway bars would be last, imo
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03-24-2017, 07:38 PM | #20 |
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Thanks everyone for your opinions and advises! Looks like it's a complicated subject with no easy definitive answer. A lot of contradicting opinions. I have no expertise to judge who is correct and who is not.
Now after reading some advises I'm hesitant to install KW V1 coilovers I bought. On the other hand my bushings should be fine, I'm only at 47k miles and I have zero issues with suspension. It's just very floaty and too soft. I don't track my car guys. I just want my suspension to feel more planted and less body roll and a bit better handling, but I'm not looking to track my car, it's my DD basically |
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03-24-2017, 07:49 PM | #21 | |
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The rear bar has the race, the front bar has the street. I have not put the UUC bar in the rear yet due to availability. Car is awesome, and it's totally comfortable on the street, probably because I have properly matched springs and dampers One thing I will note is that my turn in is much crisper and the car is much more of a precision tool with good bushings. In my opinion comfort is in no way compromised. Use the street ones on the subframes. I'm also on 17" wheels with non-run-flats, they make a huge difference (not to mention the weight!).
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03-24-2017, 07:55 PM | #22 | |
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Performance Shock (aka PSI) at Sonoma Raceway is the best source and I think they sell non-custom tuned street setups for ~1700-1800.00. Which is about what you probably paid for those crap V1's.
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