[Lucian009]

Hey guys, I know this is a perennial question, but your take will be appreciated.
I'm looking at getting a '08-10' 335xi coupe but, in MT, the offering is not great so one would need to settle for a high-mileage car (unless you're ready to shed a lot of $ for a rare low-mileage find).

1. Do you think that (assuming average maintenance was done) 110-120k miles is a lot on these cars, and coming with a host of looming issues?

2. The HPFP issue is really making me hesitate. I heard that a recall was issued but my mechanic says otherwise. In any case, is the new-design pump all safe once installed?

3. Given #2 above, would a 328xi be a more reliable, better buy?

Many thanks!

[BayMoWe335]

1) I wouldn't buy a 335i over 60k miles.

2) I wouldn't own a 328i.

3) If you can't afford a lower mileage 335i, you an't afford a high mileage one that will need tons of maintenance.

[jt335i]

FWIW, I have a 2010 E92 335i I bought new. Just rolled into the 70K mark on the ticker and I haven't had any major mechanical or electrical issues with it. The HPFP was replaced as part of the recall, but it didn't have any problems with the original nor with the replacement.
Kept up with all the maintenance and it has been reliable as the first day I drove it home. Have some minor wear and tear things I need to replace after 6 years and 4 months of ownership, but I know that's normal.

[Navy Doc]

Over 100k miles on any car is a lot. Expect to carry out a lot of maintenance as well as replace parts such as starter, alternator, water pump etc. and if your not mechanically inclined it will cost you a good deal. The n54 is a solid power plant and will withstand a lot of miles. My e93 335i is going on 180k and have had many failures. Just recently had to replace the logic 7 amp.

Don't know what your top limit is on the car but there are plenty of 335s with under 60k for under $25k.

Good luck in your search and purchase.

[ritzzzzzwik]

What ever has to go wrong would have gone wrong on the 335i by 120K miles. so after that its probably ok, provided the seller can provide all maintenance history. Mines sitting at 116K miles, and had major organ transplant right around 110K. That said my HPFP is still going strong (knocking on all kinds of wood), and I log on a monthly basis.
If you can look for a 09 or later. Earlier models also had issues with the DME, well mine took a dump at 110K. Mind you till that point everything this was intact, I mean everything. So contrary to popular belief my 07 N54 I'd say was pretty reliable. Just that for a second owner, that may not be the case. A car that has a good maintenance history should server well.

[Kyler522]

Originally Posted by BayMoWe335

1)

2) I wouldn't own a 328i.

Is this because of the lack of power, or is there another reason? I'm curious as I am currently looking for a 328i and want to make sure there isn't some huge problem (ex: HPFP in the 335) that I have missed.

[natedog7700]

Originally Posted by BayMoWe335

1) I wouldn't buy a 335i over 60k miles.

2) I wouldn't own a 328i.

3) If you can't afford a lower mileage 335i, you an't afford a high mileage one that will need tons of maintenance.

I would disagree.

I bought mine with 100k because a couple years ago i couldn't "afford" a lower miles one. Im at 125k. Mine was well taken care of and had all maintenance up to date so one might say i "got lucky". Ive had no major issues besides regular maintenance (knock on wood). It all depends on how it was taken care of and what maintenance was done IMO. Playing "catch up" is no fun...

[puppydax]

Originally Posted by Kyler522

Is this because of the lack of power, or is there another reason? I'm curious as I am currently looking for a 328i and want to make sure there isn't some huge problem (ex: HPFP in the 335) that I have missed.

I wouldn't own a 328 for the lack of power. I'm sure the maintenance cost is less than a 335i, but the performance from a 328 isn't worth the maintenance cost IMO.

[katatonia]

I've heard from a few people that the 2010's are pretty solid compared to the early ones, and that they should be about the same maintenance wise as a 2011 n55. Can anyone weigh in on this?

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Kyler522

Is this because of the lack of power, or is there another reason? I'm curious as I am currently looking for a 328i and want to make sure there isn't some huge problem (ex: HPFP in the 335) that I have missed.

328 has a solid a solid engine (N52) with no major issues.

Most issues affecting 328 are related to the platform and are common between 28 and 35 models, such as: water pump failing (same issue as 335), coils going bad at about 80-100k miles (vs 335 every 40k), leaking gaskets (same as 335). I might be forgetting something, but that should be mainly it.

You will not have to deal with failing turbos, carbon buildup, fuel pump failures, frequent coil and plug changes, etc.

Yes, you will not have same power and tuning potential, but 328 is fun machine and it's not bad by any means, especially if it has a stick. If you do ever start wanting more power, it will cost you $$$ (from $400 to $5000), unlike cheap stuff for 35's (~$500).

Handling on both cars is equal (if not slightly better on 328 due to slightly lower weight).

In conclusion: If you want solid reliable fun car, get 328. If you want power and don't care about reliability, get 335.

[Lucian009]

Originally Posted by W37V

328 has a solid a solid engine (N52) with no major issues.

Most issues affecting 328 are related to the platform and are common between 28 and 35 models, such as: water pump failing (same issue as 335), coils going bad at about 80-100k miles (vs 335 every 40k), leaking gaskets (same as 335). I might be forgetting something, but that should be mainly it.

You will not have to deal with failing turbos, carbon buildup, fuel pump failures, frequent coil and plug changes, etc.

Yes, you will not have same power and tuning potential, but 328 is fun machine and it's not bad by any means, especially if it has a stick. If you do ever start wanting more power, it will cost you $$$ (from $400 to $5000), unlike cheap stuff for 35's (~$500).

Handling on both cars is equal (if not slightly better on 328 due to slightly lower weight).

In conclusion: If you want solid reliable fun car, get 328. If you want power and don't care about reliability, get 335.

Well said, which is exactly my dilemma. I'm really split. I just need a better grip on what kind of issues and repairs costs would the turbo department bring in for the 335. Can anyone clarify exactly what you should expect with the hpfp and the turbo itself please (as far as occurrences and repairs cost)? If you replace them, can you think you're trouble free for, say, another 60k-x miles?

[trixdout]

If you want a high mileage 335i then go for it. Make sure the maintenance was done. So ask if the suspension was replaced. Check for regular oil changes at more frequent intervals than what the dealer recommends. They should be done anywhere from 5k-7k miles. Even 3k miles intervals is perfect but 5k is ideal. Make sure brakes were replaced if they were worn. If they are worn and need replacing soon then get the price reduced for that repair cost. Also make sure the clutch was changed and have that in written form from the person you are buying the car from. Easiest thing to lie about in any manual car, that they changed the clutch. Receipt to prove the job was done is what you need to see to believe them. That job alone not including the parts is $900-$1200. Also fluid changes in all diffs (pending if you go with an xdrive or not [transfer case fluid]), tranny fluid and brake fluid.

After you address all those with the car and it checks out, a high mileage 335 will not give you issues. JUST MAKE SURE THOSE THINGS WERE DONE ALONG WITH THE WASTEGATE RATTLE AND HPFP RECALL/REPAIRS!

[Johnny Boost]

Originally Posted by BayMoWe335

1) I wouldn't buy a 335i over 60k miles.

2) I wouldn't own a 328i.

3) If you can't afford a lower mileage 335i, you an't afford a high mileage one that will need tons of maintenance.

Question answered. Close this thread please.

[BravoJohny33]

Originally Posted by trixdout

If you want a high mileage 335i then go for it. Make sure the maintenance was done. So ask if the suspension was replaced. Check for regular oil changes at more frequent intervals than what the dealer recommends. They should be done anywhere from 5k-7k miles. Even 3k miles intervals is perfect but 5k is ideal. Make sure brakes were replaced if they were worn. If they are worn and need replacing soon then get the price reduced for that repair cost. Also make sure the clutch was changed and have that in written form from the person you are buying the car from. Easiest thing to lie about in any manual car, that they changed the clutch. Receipt to prove the job was done is what you need to see to believe them. That job alone not including the parts is $900-$1200. Also fluid changes in all diffs (pending if you go with an xdrive or not [transfer case fluid]), tranny fluid and brake fluid.

After you address all those with the car and it checks out, a high mileage 335 will not give you issues. JUST MAKE SURE THOSE THINGS WERE DONE ALONG WITH THE WASTEGATE RATTLE AND HPFP RECALL/REPAIRS!

Oil changes has nothing to do with things failing on these cars. Just flushing money down the drain

[Lucian009]

Originally Posted by Johnny Boost

Question answered. Close this thread please.

For some reason, a less than obscure carmaker decided the 328 is a viable vehicle to put out.

As far as a high mileage 335, is there an argument for lowering your upfront risk and then doing the possibly needed repairs/replacements fresh, and known, by yourself with that money balance?

[csu87]

nothing wrong with a higher mileage 335 as long as it has been properly maintained and repaired.

Think of it this way, the majority start having failures in the 80-100k range that cost thousands to fix. If you get a car that has had these problem spots replaced, you should be clear for a while.

And I would not get a 328 but i value performance

[puppydax]

If it follows a majority of BMW engines, it'll last quite a while. It's the components that are questionable. Most people make it sound like these cars do not last. They do and will last, but has a higher than usual maintenance record that needs tending to.

[Fundguy1]

Originally Posted by Lucian009

Hey guys, I know this is a perennial question, but your take will be appreciated.
I'm looking at getting a '08-10' 335xi coupe but, in MT, the offering is not great so one would need to settle for a high-mileage car (unless you're ready to shed a lot of $ for a rare low-mileage find).

1. Do you think that (assuming average maintenance was done) 110-120k miles is a lot on these cars, and coming with a host of looming issues?

2. The HPFP issue is really making me hesitate. I heard that a recall was issued but my mechanic says otherwise. In any case, is the new-design pump all safe once installed?

3. Given #2 above, would a 328xi be a more reliable, better buy?

Many thanks!

1. Mines over 226k. No issues in the second 100k I didn't have in the first. Depends on how the previous owner maintained it and what if anything you want to do. For example, may need struts. Not an issue if you plan to do coil overs.
2. Hpfp has been a non issue for 6 yrs since it was redesigned. Shouldn't be an issue.
3. No. It's a different car. It has all the same issues as the 335 bit the 335 has additionally Hpfp and waste gate issues. Those are under warranty or replaces with the revised stuff by now. But if you drive the 2 side by side you'll see how much faster the 335 is and then you can decide if the extra speed is wOrth it. It is for me by a long shot. The 335s also typically have many more options as standard or added that aren't on 328 cars so more car for the money.

[Lucian009]

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

1. Mines over 226k. No issues in the second 100k I didn't have in the first. Depends on how the previous owner maintained it and what if anything you want to do. For example, may need struts. Not an issue if you plan to do coil overs.
2. Hpfp has been a non issue for 6 yrs since it was redesigned. Shouldn't be an issue.
3. No. It's a different car. It has all the same issues as the 335 bit the 335 has additionally Hpfp and waste gate issues. Those are under warranty or replaces with the revised stuff by now. But if you drive the 2 side by side you'll see how much faster the 335 is and then you can decide if the extra speed is wOrth it. It is for me by a long shot. The 335s also typically have many more options as standard or added that aren't on 328 cars so more car for the money.

1. Thanks. Refreshing to hear. [When]Did you change the suspension, clutch, hpfp, or anything major?
2. So, you're saying that the redesigned hpfp was installed standard starting with '09 models? How sure are you on this info? Thanks again.

[Fundguy1]

Suspension refresh at 100k is nice but not necessary. I did at 210k. Hpfp 7, but all were before last redesign but one that had 120k on it. Swapped clutch now. It still had meat on it. Waste gates blew at 70k and I was never covered by warranty. First time I was over original warranty. By the time it was extended I was over that too. Wheel bearing at 120k. Water pump at 199k. Couple gaskets. That's it.

[BayMoWe335]

Originally Posted by katatonia

I've heard from a few people that the 2010's are pretty solid compared to the early ones, and that they should be about the same maintenance wise as a 2011 n55. Can anyone weigh in on this?

No, I have a 2010 and it's still had issues. If it has an N54, you will have problems.

[dannyhavok]

They're both nice to drive. The 328i is more reliable and marginally cheaper, the 335i is dramatically more powerful with huge modding potential. That said the 328i is a reasonably quick car, it's only slow compared to it's big brother (and others in the same price range like a G37 or 5.Bro Mustang)

You won't have trouble speeding, merging, overtaking, or driving like an asshole if you prioritize reliability over power. That's what I ended up doing after driving both fairly thoroughly. I could use more speed, but I'll probably just buy a bike for that.