Help with replacing clutch...Can't find DIY.

[waldron80]

Sup Team,

Looking for some guidance here.

I have a 2008 May build 6MT and my clutch is vibrating when starting out in 1st and starting to slip a little in other higher gears when I give the car some gas. I'm at 115k miles.

I'll be installing this Spec Clutch:

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-20...lutch-kit.aspx

I'm trying to find a good DIY but there doesn't seem to be one. I did find a couple for a e39 540 and I'm wondering if it is similar. Everything looks pretty straight forward but just wondering if there is anything tricky about our clutches.

I'm also trying to understand the use of this tool and if I will even need it for the spec clutch:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-M3-...ools/ES199307/

[italyix]

Originally Posted by waldron80

Sup Team,

Looking for some guidance here.

I have a 2008 May build 6MT and my clutch is vibrating when starting out in 1st and starting to slip a little in other higher gears when I give the car some gas. I'm at 115k miles.

I'll be installing this Spec Clutch:

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-20...lutch-kit.aspx

I'm trying to find a good DIY but there doesn't seem to be one. I did find a couple for a e39 540 and I'm wondering if it is similar. Everything looks pretty straight forward but just wondering if there is anything tricky about our clutches.

I'm also trying to understand the use of this tool and if I will even need it for the spec clutch:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-M3-...ools/ES199307/

Not to thread hijack, but which option did u end up going with? Steel or Al flywheel?

My TOB is on its last legs, makes some nasty noises and whines like crazy and since the clutch has 81k miles on it, I was going to replace all with this unit.

Are there weight savings vs stock? TY

[waldron80]

Originally Posted by italyix

Not to thread hijack, but which option did u end up going with? Steel or Al flywheel?

My TOB is on its last legs, makes some nasty noises and whines like crazy and since the clutch has 81k miles on it, I was going to replace all with this unit.

Are there weight savings vs stock? TY

Look at this link:
"http://www.specclutches.com/704831/"

Because I DD and don't track this car I'm leaning towards the SS with the steel fly wheel. The steel fly wheel I've been told is still lighter than our stock dual mass fly wheel but not near as light as the aluminum.

I have not purchased my clutch yet.

As far as a DIY...I will probably make one myself because yet to find one.

[Sered]

I just finished my install.

I did the Spec Twindisc P-trim. I've driven puck clutches before and the P-trim is by far the easiest to modulate for me. I also installed the UCP at the same time so that may have something to do with it.

I'll post a skeleton thread with all the notes I remember and try to fill it in with as many pictures as I can.

[DRK1]

Anyone still looking? I'm in the middle of doing this job on my 2008 6MT.
Taking lots of photos just in case there is interest. Note that a proper hoist is required.

[pbonsalb]

Post up when you are done. I have an 08M3 and will eventually have to do this job. Only 66k now so it may be a while.

[waldron80]

Originally Posted by DRK1

Anyone still looking? I'm in the middle of doing this job on my 2008 6MT.
Taking lots of photos just in case there is interest. Note that a proper hoist is required.

Yes...I'm still looking. I was planning on doing mine this weekend.

What do you mean a engine hoist is needed?

Also, Do you possibly have an online photo album like drop box? Would love to troll your photos of this job.

Did you drain your tranny fluid? When you removed the lines for the tranny fluid cooler did much fluid come out?

Thanks.

[DRK1]

Sorry, I meant a vehicle hoist. I suppose you could do it with the car on jack stands, but it will be difficult to say the least. You will also need a low transmission jack, which I have seen for sale. My new SPEC clutch has not been delivered yet, so I am taking the car apart as time permits, no rush. Just about to drain the trans fluid before pulling the cooler lines tonight, then remove slave cylinder and trans. Apparently you have to tilt the front of the engine to reach the top bolts of the trans, so I will make a tool to do that. I will try to start posting pics as soon as the trans is off. For now, please look at this website which has the procedure outlined including torque values: http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se...raulic_system/

[waldron80]

Anyone know how much our Transmissions weigh?

I'm trying to figure out if I should buy a transmission adapter plate for my jack or if I can just man handle this thing with a buddy?

Also, When removing the transmission cooler hoses did a lot of fluid come out? Do I need to drain the transmission? I ask because I just recently changed the fluid.

Thanks.

[DRK1]

Sorry, I meant to post sooner but my clutch has still not arrived so I suspended my work. I drained the trans fluid into a clean plastic container to re-use since I just replaced it a few months ago. After draining the trans, very little came out from the oil cooler hoses when I disconnected them. There are o-rings on the hoses so remove gently and cover with a plastic bag or clean rag so they don't get scuffed while you pull the trans. Not sure of the weight, but you can easily handle it if you get an adapter for your jack. It must not be removed without some sort of jack, otherwise you are risking bending the input shaft as you disconnect it from the engine.

I will finish this DIY as soon as my SPEC clutch and flywheel arrive - I have been waiting over 2 weeks already!

[waldron80]

I'm getting ready to do this job next weekend but I can't seem to find a good place to purchase a transmission adapter. Anyone know a good place?

Thanks.

[waldron80]

Guys I need some help. I'm doing this job right now and I'm totally stuck. How in the HELL do I get to the top 4 bolts on the top of the bell housing?!?!?!

[javarithms]

See if this trick (for E36) from Pelican works:

"The ones on the side and bottom of the transmission will be relatively easy to remove - those aren't the ones that you need to be concerned about. The two bolts at the top of the engine near the cylinder head are very difficult remove - especially the one at the very top. The reason is that there is no room to easily reach these and apply any significant amount of force. In order to remove this top bolt, I used the following tool combination: 3/8 Torx socket, 3/8 1-ft extension, 3/8 extension u-joint, 3/8 3-ft extension, 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, 3-ft 1/2 breaker bar. This combination of tools was the only way I could reach the topmost bolt and remove it. I found that I could place a smaller tool on the bolt, but then I had no leverage to remove it. With this combination of tools, you basically need to hold the socket in place with your fingers and have an assistant pull on the breaker bar. Somehow I was able to use my feet to push on the breaker bar, but I really wouldn't recommend trying that."

[DRK1]

Damn, my clutch took a month to arrive so I am behind on the DIY.
You need to tilt the engine / trans, then use a 3 ft long 1/2" drive extension with a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter and a 3/8 drive E12 torx socket. Use an impact wrench to remove these bolts easily.

To tilt the engine, you can just use the weight of the trans (after the cross-member is removed), but this will create a problem once you actually start to disconnect the trans. Then engine will want to tilt back and you will bend something for sure.

Here is a pic of the tool which you will have to make yourself (not hard).
Dimensions of the tool are:
block of steel or aluminum - 4.5” x ½ “ x 1.5” with 2 holes drilled 60mm apart, one ½” dia, the other drilled and tapped for a ½” x 6” bolt.

I an still working on the complete DIY. It is quite long.

[DRK1]

What is the status of your job? I may be able to complete the detailed instructions in a couple of days. There is a very important trick to pulling the trans which I will describe in detail. I recommend you wait for the full DIY if you haven't already pulled the trans.

[wheatpaste]

You guys are completely dropping the transmission? Is it possible to disconnect the driveshaft and push the transmission back to gain access to the clutch?

And I don't know about this transmission specifically, but from what I've seen and experienced in the past with other cars, the transmission adapters they make for floor jacks are pretty shitty and you're better off just using two people with two jacks.

Of course, a lift and dedicated transmission jack are the best, but most people don't have access to that type of equipment.

[DRK1]

On this car there is not enough space to simply pull the trans back far enough to be able to remove the clutch. It has to come off completely. And you also can't just pull it straight back then drop it down. I am covering the removal technique in the DIY which is nearly done now.

[waldron80]

Well Team... I did it....I got it done and I'm driving around with my new clutch.

About the few comments above:

This job is a bear. Not for the faint of heart. 9/10 times I am a DIY guy. This was probably the toughest I've done. You definitely need help. Thankfully my dad was helping me the whole time. Even though he is 75 he was up under that car with me doing this job.

Yes...You have to tilt the engine. I didn't use the special tool but shoved a 2x6 up there and jacked it up with my floor jack.

Yes...There is very little room.

Yes...Make sure you disconnect all sensors and the one on top of the trans.

Yes...Make sure you don't forget to disconnect the trans coolant hoses.

Yes...I purchased a floor trans jack from Northern Tool after I dropped the transmission. I dropped this this on my chest and it is about 125lbs. I concluded at this point there was no way I could get it back without a trans jack. I purchased the one at northern tool for $179 and plan on selling it for a loss on Craigslist and just thinking of it as a rental. Wish I would have had this to remove the trans. It's a tilt, push, and level kind of motion that kind of hard to explain with out doing the job.

To get the top 4 bolts I drop the trans brace and tilted the engine. I used the camera on light on my iphone and shoved it up the side of the trans so I could see the bolts. My dad is was in the back of the trans with 3ft worth of extensions and we guided it together to the bolt.

I thoroughly studied youtube vidoes of other folks doing clutch jobs on BMWs. I also used this http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/ and studied it closely. Takes some getting used to navigating through the manual but you figure it out by the time the project is done.

You need a T55 Torx bit to remove the old fly wheel. But it also need to be a longer torx bit. The holes are recessed about 1.5 inches so you need a long stem to reach the bolt.

While I was in there I replaced my rear main seal and trans shaft seals. My shift linkage seal was leaking pretty bad so I replaced that as well.

I replaced all the shift linkage parts and the shift lever feel is like brand new.

I also replaced my motor mounts and trans mounts.

I did this all on the floor.

I'll post pictures later

It was hot outside.

Let me know if you guys have any questions.

Look forward to reading the DIY and offering any additional tid bits.

[waldron80]

Quick readers digest version review of the spec clutch.

It grabs. First gear is still jumpy because I have not gotten used to it yet (I only have 80 miles on the clutch). The clutch pedal I would say is way more stiff to the point that I don't sit at stop signs or stop lights with the pedal engaged anymore.

I'm looking forward to clearing the 500 miles break in period so I can really get on it and feel the difference. Have a new clutch is making me realize just how much my old one was slipping.

[DRK1]

Very impressive that you did it without the car up on a proper hoist. Good for you!