[Estoril1992]

At the weekend I did a service on my car. I took delivery of this car on the 01/03/2014 and covered 7314 miles. Whilst being the first time having the cover off I had a look around the engine and was surprised to find a rusted bolt. I decided at this point I would get it checked out when the car goes in for a service assuming it isn't much of a issue.

Once the car was on the ramps I went under the car which and having another nosy to my shock finding some part of the drivetrain to be rusted completley.

I'm amazed how a car like this which has costs £40000+ can have rust in 7000 miles. I will be getting this checked hopefully in the next few months

[JustChris]

Have you taken to the dealer for comment?

Edit sorry I see you're going to get it checked. I would not think it was much to worry about, had you not looked would you feel there was anything wrong with the car?

[G30 B58]

Your poor mechanic / dealership. It's a car, made of metals. Metals will rust.

Get over it.

[Estoril1992]

I don't think its a concern at the moment but if you keep the car for a long time as I hope too I'm sure these things will cause problems. I live in Aberdeen where the weather only accelerates the rust effect on cars. I don't feel that a car where you inject so much money into should rust in a matter of 8 months which to me doesn't show good design build.

Originally Posted by ChesterM2

Have you taken to the dealer for comment?

Edit sorry I see you're going to get it checked. I would not think it was much to worry about, had you not looked would you feel there was anything wrong with the car?

[JustChris]

I can understand mate. I would think the time is immaterial though, if the parts in question are ok to show exterior corrosion from BMW they be rusty within a month if not already at delivery. The main worry / issue is usually around wheel bolts etc as this becomes quite visible. Have it checked but I'm sure it within 'tolerance' and part of the vehicles operation....try not to look :

[geordiepaul]

Some parts will require the rust to protect it. Look at the Angel of the North, rusty from day 1 would it wouldn't need looking after.

[Consett Mag]

You call that rust?

Back in the old days, people would pick up their new cars, which were already rusting under the paintwork ... And when buying a used car, we used to take a magnet and check for areas near the wheel arches etc for large lumps of bodge.

Datsuns, and many other makes rotted through in a mega short time compared to today.

[sweels]

I do wonder sometimes why exposed nuts etc (those on the car before anyone gets smutty!) are not better protected, whether through galvanisation or some other process (I'm no expert but appreciate there could be issues with electrolytic corrosion I guess) but assuming it remains as just 'surface rust', then I guess nothing to worry about.

Again, I'm far from expert in this, but is there what looks like a rubber gaitor next to the 'big rusty bit' in your photo that could have broken, this letting water into an area that should remain dry?

[Edinburra]

Originally Posted by Consett Mag

You call that rust?

Back in the old days, people would pick up their new cars, which were already rusting under the paintwork ... And when buying a used car, we used to take a magnet and check for areas near the wheel arches etc for large lumps of bodge.

Datsuns, and many other makes rotted through in a mega short time compared to today.

They, cars back then were made with soluble bodywork just so you changed them more often!

[Buster Blue]

Originally Posted by Estoril1992

I don't think its a concern at the moment but if you keep the car for a long time as I hope too I'm sure these things will cause problems. I live in Aberdeen where the weather only accelerates the rust effect on cars. I don't feel that a car where you inject so much money into should rust in a matter of 8 months which to me doesn't show good design build.

Have a look at you break discs !! also if you have 403s check for blistering around the center BMW cap there probably will be minor corrosion.

[DTP1980]

Brush it off with a wire brush if you're really bothered and give a very light coat of Waxoyl, assuming it's well clear of braking surfaces.

Some surfaces which lightly oxidise can often protect the layers of metal underneath, so may be deliberate on BM's part, especially if the materials is a high grade.

If you've ever worked on British Leyland cars, of which I have many, you have nothing to be concerned about. As someone said - they were soluble!

[....,,,,..,,..]

Originally Posted by Edinburra

They, cars back then were made with soluble bodywork just so you changed them more often!

Lol our backplane had a mix of british LEYLAND types and Datsun types, when it rained there was brown water running down the drains off all the cars.

People changed their cars yearly then, mainly as you had to change it while you still had a car to change

[G82Dude]

It's a piece of metal that is oxidising quite naturally. Don't quite see the problem...

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Estoril1992

I'm amazed how a car like this which has costs £40000+ can have rust in 7000 miles. I will be getting this checked hopefully in the next few months

I don't think the cost/value of a car has much to do with levels of tarnish/oxidization/corrosion.

Your first picture certainly gives the signs of having a lot of wet and/or humidity on the alloy parts as well, for such a short life so far. I guess you've had a couple of poor seasons this year to accelerate the issues.

I see it over this side of the Highlands, can't escape it on any parts that are not given added protection, whatever the marque or value.

Products like Waxoyl are your friend, on parts you want to look a bit better, or last a bit longer, without too much 'wasting' away.

HighlandPete

[Estoril1992]

The reason for emphasis on the cost is that its my first brand new car and buying this car was a big decision for me and I'm just shocked! At the end of the day it is what it is and no amount of moan will change that.

Maybe it would also be good to mention that my hobby has been to detail cars so I like a car to look its best. I have sealed my wheels and the plastic bmw centre caps with a coating so I shouldn't have a problem with rust there.

I also bought some Dynax UC for the wheel arches and am hoping to do the underside in the summer months when its warmer outside

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

I don't think the cost/value of a car has much to do with levels of tarnish/oxidization/corrosion.

Your first picture certainly gives the signs of having a lot of wet and/or humidity on the alloy parts as well, for such a short life so far. I guess you've had a couple of poor seasons this year to accelerate the issues.

I see it over this side of the Highlands, can't escape it on any parts that are not given added protection, whatever the marque or value.

Products like Waxoyl are your friend, on parts you want to look a bit better, or last a bit longer, without too much 'wasting' away.

HighlandPete

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Estoril1992

The reason for emphasis on the cost is that its my first brand new car and buying this car was a big decision for me and I'm just shocked! At the end of the day it is what it is and no amount of moan will change that.

Maybe it would also be good to mention that my hobby has been to detail cars so I like a car to look its best....

Totally understand. Can be quite depressing how quickly a car deteriorates, particularly underneath.

This was my E91 at less than 5-years.






HighlandPete

[Estoril1992]

These photos make my car look brand new with the close to nothing rust.... oh wait

[DTP1980]

Do you garage your pride and joy?

[Estoril1992]

Yep, every night

Originally Posted by DTP1980

Do you garage your pride and joy?

[DTP1980]

Ok - so garages are bad for cars if not we'll ventilated.

Imagine, after a run in the wet, the car is warm, certain parts are toasty. The water turns to vapour, the air temperature in the garage stays relatively warm, and voila, you have a contained area which is as moist as a jungle. This gives moisture a prolonged opportunity to oxidise metals. The same problem exists, to a lesser extent, after washing the car and putting it away straight after. The car really needs to be dry.

So, you could either invest in a ventilation system which brings in new clean air, and removes the old, warm humid air, or you can fit a dehumidifier which is large enough to cope with the garage space, although you really want moving air, so additional fans would be ideal for either of those suggestions. Alternatively, remove the garage doors completely and create a car-port.

This would significantly slow down the oxidising effect without any shadow of doubt.

[Estoril1992]

That's a interesting way to look at it and not one I had considered. I have a double garage and having a greater volume than a single unit hopefully allowing a smaller temperature rise. Usually I notice the garage is normally 2/3 degrees hotter in the winter than the outside but not enough to notice it being any more humid.

In the summer months its like a sauna and maybe I shouldn't park it in the garage straight after it rains. If I wash the car I leave it outside rather than just starting it and moving it in.

I cant remove the garage doors as the garage leads into the house and we also store a lot of things. I do have three air vents in the garage but they don't really seem like much use

Originally Posted by DTP1980

Ok - so garages are bad for cars if not we'll ventilated.

Imagine, after a run in the wet, the car is warm, certain parts are toasty. The water turns to vapour, the air temperature in the garage stays relatively warm, and voila, you have a contained area which is as moist as a jungle. This gives moisture a prolonged opportunity to oxidise metals. The same problem exists, to a lesser extent, after washing the car and putting it away straight after. The car really needs to be dry.

So, you could either invest in a ventilation system which brings in new clean air, and removes the old, warm humid air, or you can fit a dehumidifier which is large enough to cope with the garage space, although you really want moving air, so additional fans would be ideal for either of those suggestions. Alternatively, remove the garage doors completely and create a car-port.

This would significantly slow down the oxidising effect without any shadow of doubt.

[Consett Mag]

Before spending about £10k installing a dehumidification rig, why don't you invest in a pair of humidity testing gauges.