Ticking Noise After KWV3 Install

[Marcoose]

Hey, All.

If you (or a friend) have a persistent ticking/clicking noise on the front after installing a KWV3, could you please share what you've done so far to solve the problem? Bonus points if you have actually solved the problem.

Thanks.

[Marcoose]

Bump

[Marcoose]

Bump

[freakystyly]

When does the ticking occur? Parked? Rolling forward, backward? When the wheels are turned? When the wheels are loaded (turning quickly)? More info would help.

[M3SQRD]

Yes. More info is needed to help identify the cause. It could be the springs, the top nut on the strut not fully torqued, the strut top mounts, etc.

Did you use new front strut top mounts when you installed the v3s? If not, what was the mileage on your stock suspension at the time of the swap?

Two fairly common causes are:

1. There’s play between the strut top central nut and top mount. This makes noise when the suspension is moving down and up (switching between compression and rebound).

2. The bearing in the strut top mount is damaged or failed. This can make noise when the suspension is moving down/up and, especially, when turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock.

[Tobster3]

Got a video?

[Marcoose]

Hey, All. Thanks for the inquiries. I already have 3 good indies looking at this. We've looked everywhere, so to speak. An online diagnostic won't cut it. I'm really hoping somebody had the same problem, and even better, solved it. We've already replaced wheelbearing and switched from adjustable to fixed camber plates. It's a mystery.

If one of you are near San Francisco and fancy a closer look, that can be arranged.

I can share this: after balancing, it's all quite for several days. Then the clicks start ever so subtle on turns after some driving. Then turns and some straights. Then backing up too. Then on all turns and straights. Then even from cold, any speed. And it's from both front corners. And not necessarily simultaneously. And it's much more frequent than a turn of tyres. I picked up a rock between in the tyre threads and that rock ticks much slower than the suspension clicks. And you only hear the clicks from outside or with the windows open. And no effect whatsoever on steering, accelerating, braking, turning, etc. The car is otherwise solid. It's a bloody mystery.

[freakystyly]

Could it be coming from your brakes? Do you have slotted, drilled or dimpled brake rotors? Two piece (aluminum hat)? They have been known to click in some odd cases... usually on F chassis models.

There's a "friction disk" that goes between the rotor and hub, some people need it and some don't. Again for F chassis models. Here is the part description: This part is listed by BMW as BMW part number 31108053073 (31 10 8 053 073) and is described as a thin metal spacer that fits between the brake rotor and the wheel bearing hub on F22/F3X M Sport, F8X M2/M3/M4, F10 M5, F06/F13 M6, F85 X5M, and F86 X6M models. BMW may also call it a "Higher Coefficient Of Friction Disc". If you have ticking or clicking noises coming from the front wheels when cornering or braking it's likely caused by shifting movement between the rotor hat and the wheel bearing hub. This shim sits between them and fills in any tiny gaps and interfaces between the aluminum rotor hat and the iron hub. Note: BMW also recommends a thorough cleaning of the backside of the rotor hat and the wheel hub. No lubricant or anti-seize should be used.

[BIGW0RM]

There is a TSB about clicking when you turn side to side. They say its the tie arms. Lowering puts more stress on the tie arms and causes a clicking sound when you turn side to side. BMW offers a fix. But my dealer would not fix mine unless I removed the lowering kit I have. I lived with it. I then got new tires and an alignment many months later and it just magically stopped.

[BIGW0RM]

Link to TSB post.

https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...3&postcount=82

[Marcoose]

Originally Posted by freakystyly

Could it be coming from your brakes?

It's not from the brakes.

Originally Posted by BIGW0RM

Link to TSB post.

https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...3&postcount=82

It's not like that on my car.

Thank you both for offering ideas. Really. Thank you.

[Marcoose]

Bump.

I had a nice interaction with a fellow forum member. He shared an interesting insight. I'm going to try it this weekend.

More good insights are welcome.

[Dasky_spas]

If you reused the same strut tower bolts, highly likely they came loose if no locktite was used. Happened to me in the rear.

[Marcoose]

Originally Posted by Dasky_spas

If you reused the same strut tower bolts, highly likely they came loose if no locktite was used. Happened to me in the rear.

Thanks. It was the trusted indy that installed the KWV3. And he and other 3 indies already took a crack at trying to fix the clicking noise. I imagine at least one of them checked the bolts. But that’s easy to check at home this week. If retightening them doesn’t make the clicking go away, we’ll eliminate it from the list. Thanks again.

[Marcoose]

Update: Tobster3 advised to check the torque of the wheel nuts. I couldn’t check what they're torqued at, but since the car was going to the shop, the indy relaxed the bolts, wobbled the wheels on the discs, and retorqued at 120. What you know, 99.5% of the clicks disappeared. I just heard one random click going down the garage ramp.

The experiment will continue. I’m going to wait for the clicks to return, and if they do, repeat the test at home myself for further confirmation. This time I will check what they’re torqued at as well.

So weird. There’s zero symptom whatsoever the wheel nuts are loose. The car drives solid.

Tobster3, thank you so much !

[breezyrc15]

do you have adjustable outer tie rods for the front?

when lowering the car, these can help prevent clicking noises, in my experience.

[Tobster3]

Originally Posted by Marcoose

Update: Tobster3 advised to check the torque of the wheel nuts. I couldn’t check what they're torqued at, but since the car was going to the shop, the indy relaxed the bolts, wobbled the wheels on the discs, and retorqued at 120. What you know, 99.5% of the clicks disappeared. I just heard one random click going down the garage ramp.

The experiment will continue. I’m going to wait for the clicks to return, and if they do, repeat the test at home myself for further confirmation. This time I will check what they’re torqued at as well.

So weird. There’s zero symptom whatsoever the wheel nuts are loose. The car drives solid.

Tobster3, thank you so much !

Glad I could help and it’s been great chatting with you!

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by freakystyly

Could it be coming from your brakes? Do you have slotted, drilled or dimpled brake rotors? Two piece (aluminum hat)? They have been known to click in some odd cases... usually on F chassis models.

There's a "friction disk" that goes between the rotor and hub, some people need it and some don't. Again for F chassis models. Here is the part description: This part is listed by BMW as BMW part number 31108053073 (31 10 8 053 073) and is described as a thin metal spacer that fits between the brake rotor and the wheel bearing hub on F22/F3X M Sport, F8X M2/M3/M4, F10 M5, F06/F13 M6, F85 X5M, and F86 X6M models. BMW may also call it a "Higher Coefficient Of Friction Disc". If you have ticking or clicking noises coming from the front wheels when cornering or braking it's likely caused by shifting movement between the rotor hat and the wheel bearing hub. This shim sits between them and fills in any tiny gaps and interfaces between the aluminum rotor hat and the iron hub. Note: BMW also recommends a thorough cleaning of the backside of the rotor hat and the wheel hub. No lubricant or anti-seize should be used.

I have same problem with the clicks when turning, I installed the friction disc and it did not disappear, another one needs to be installed between the brake disc and the rim, but I don't think this will solve the problem

[Marcoose]

Bump.

The clicks returned as anticipated, and far sooner than previous times the bolts were re-torqued for tyre change, balancing, etc. At this pace, one day re-torqueing may not help at all.

One more detail: my wheels are coated black. Could the coat not make the wheel sit flush against the hub ? And thus the clicking ?