BMW X5 dies and then works 🥺

[The_kidddo]

Hello all! New here. But I need y’all opinions.

So, I have a BMW X5 and it keeps dying. I’ve had the car for over a year and first noticed the car dying during the last winter months.

I had to buy a battery pack to keep Jump starting it. Eventually, 4 days later, I got it to a tech and it wasn’t doing what it was doing to me at home to them. So, they tested the battery and said it was good and I may need a key fob. I purchased a key fob and that wasn’t the problem.

Throughout this whole thing, I would see “battery discharged” , tire pressure etc. but the crazy thing is, a few days later, the car cranks right up with no issues and me not having to jump start it. It’s been 7 months since then.

Fast forward to last week, I was having the same issue. Had to jump start the car after it died for like 3 days. The car would not stay charged 30 minutes after turning it off.

Plus, I hear my left headlight clicking and I hear clicking coming through the dash after I jump start the car. This time, the engine light came on and gave me a “Control module communication Bus “G” off” sign.

Two days later, the car is starting regularly 😂😂😂 and the engine light is off, the only question is…when will it die again?

Anybody can give me some answers?

P.s. the battery in the car is still the original battery according to the labeling. It’s a 2014 car. Should I get a new battery? I have two.

Thanks.

[B58 parts]

Here is a good video to diagnose a parasitic draw. Good luck. I have the same thing in front of me with my 05. Once I just left the overhead light on and that was enough to kill it. Not sure what happened the second time.

[BlkGS]

If your battery is truly original to a 2014, you're due for your 3rd battery. Yes, get a new battery.

The intermittent nature of the issue makes me suspect a ground issue. I'd check into that.

[DrVenture]

If you cannot diagnose it yourself, you need a real good private shop. The video above is a starting point. I agree that a 10-yr old battery (or batteries) is the first thing I would replace. I believe you meant that the car has two batteries, not that you are on the second replacement?

Meanwhile, the intermittent nature of the problem suggests a bad connection (ground or power), short, or parasitic draw, but parasitic draw usually doesn't go away for months at a time and then recur. Components also do not usually start working again, then fail, and so forth. You might check your battery after a full charge with a DC VOM, and check it again while running to verify alternator output. Look for something around 14 - 14.5v at 2000 RPM with a good battery.

These sorts of problems can befuddle trained mechanics. You are likely going to need the wiring schematics, to do it yourself. Maybe an ammeter too. If the vehicle has seen use in the rust belt, then corrosion in wiring harnesses is a likelihood.

[DanG]

Note: A new battery needs registration. You should not just replace the battery.