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10-18-2010, 02:42 PM | #23 |
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To clean up your discs, use this:
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...SevTSeSSSSSS-- re-bed your brakes (properly) and you'll be in fine shape. I've used the above method and it revives the hot brake shimmy very nicely.
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10-18-2010, 05:39 PM | #24 | |
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I am trying to recall what pad deposit means... Do I need to switch to a harder or softer compound for the rear pads? |
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10-19-2010, 03:30 AM | #25 | |
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Quote:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
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10-22-2010, 05:48 PM | #26 | ||
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In other words, if you were to go faster and take that same 40mph corner at 50 mph, you wouldn't be necessarilly braking less because since you are faster you must now be approaching that corner at a higher straighaway speed, say 125mph ( a guess). If you do the math on kinetic energy change for those 2 scenarios, you'll see that the faster scenario will result in more kinetic energy loss (as heat). And, I am not sure but what you mean by "heavy" braking. Who would want to decelerate from 120-40 "lightly" on a track? I don't know west coast tracks, but what you describe above does not sound particularly demanding on the brakes. Try Watkins Glen. I suspect the long service life of your rotors has a lot to do with their superior cooling vane geometry (compared to stock), and the resulting increase in the heat transfer coefficient.
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10-22-2010, 06:24 PM | #27 | |
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Most of what you wrote wrt braking, is correct. I over-simplified the concept of "braking" in relation to speed on the learning curve. The physical aspect of going fast is correct, you will have to dissipate X amount of energy for each turn in order to go through it at Y speed. The part about "braking less" makes you go faster, is in relation to the learning curve. I found that, as a driver, most of us tend to brake too much. As we progress, some of us eventually shed that habit and find the optimum amount of braking to use, which is as little as needed for as little time as possible to get to your optimum turn-in speed. Actually, one "sage" once told me, that brakes are actually just another tool to manage weight transfer, once you learn how to use the brakes strictly as a tool to manage weight transfer, you will have found the least amount of braking you need for each turn, and therefore the maximum entry speed that will allow you to carry the highest speed through the turn and therefore maximum entry speed...Which is the secret to go fast. Since on most weekends I'll go through the progression from working with beginners to intermediates to advanced students, this is what I typically see. Car control students who's never activated ABS their entire life, don't brake nearly enough. Then you get beginner track students...They brake either way too much or way too little. Intermediate guys who's learned to control their braking a little more, consistently brake too much. The advance guys brake only as much as they need. As for the "heavy" braking comment, the entry from the banking to the infield is a short little straight where you don't have the luxury to extend your braking zone too far to save your brakes. You're right, nobody brakes "light" for these situations, I meant "heavy" as in all your braking needs to be done in a short compact space and time and there's little room for error and you can't really extend your braking zone much since it's coming off of a long sweeping turn at high speed. Maybe "difficult" would be a better word for "heavy" in reference to braking in this context, in that it's followed by two very tight turns at low speed and therefore you don't get much of an opportunity to let the brakes cool-down before you have to brake for another hairpin.
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10-22-2010, 08:11 PM | #28 |
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Since your post asked about DSC - how long/how often is your DSC light on? I see mine about five to eight times a day on a 'spirited' weekend drive, but rarely for more than a second or three each time. If your car is similar I doubt that DSC-initiated braking is the primary cause of your warped rotors - probably just normal [intense] braking as indicated in this thread.
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10-23-2010, 09:55 AM | #29 | |
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I was using cobalt pads on other cars, switched to carbotech, and I am thinking about going back if I track the Z4M again. They are pretty solid and last longer I think. But I am just sick of paying $400 a set for OEM pad shapes. I'm going to wilwood calipers on the E30 just to cut back on pad expenses (they are more like $150 a set). The other thing about braking less is learning to use the tires to scrub some speed at entry. I improved my lap times significantly when I started doing that better. It helped to ride shot gun with one of the fastest racers in the area to see what was possible.
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10-27-2010, 10:11 PM | #30 | |
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10-28-2010, 06:00 AM | #31 | |
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checking the rotors on the ///M for runout is a royal pain in the a**. |
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11-05-2010, 11:35 PM | #32 |
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