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08-09-2010, 09:46 AM | #67 | |
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The bike will have at least one (should be two) sets of bosses in the middle triangle of the frame where you can install cages. New bikes come with the hardware, you essentially just need the cages... very easy to do with an allen wrench. F your friends.... you do what you gotta do to loose the weight, etc. In the long run, they'll be admiring you for it. Just use this as motivation to prove them wrong. You might check around for a group ride to get on. Local bike shops will usually have them... might also check craigslist, etc. Being that you are pretty new, you'll want to go to one that is a "no drop" ride so that you don't get lost/left in the dust. Keep in mind though that these rides are typically 25miles + so you might want to do some training on your own first so you can get your stamina where it needs to be. |
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08-09-2010, 10:55 AM | #68 | |
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For the bottles, the bike should come with holes drilled on the down tube and the seat tube for cages. Just remove the bolts, put the cages on and tighten them back down. There should be two sets of holes so you can hold two bottles. They make cages that mount on the back of the seat but I would just ride with the two bottles on the frame for a while. In the beginning, you probably won't be riding long enough distances to need more than two bottles anyway.
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08-10-2010, 12:34 AM | #69 | ||
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i looked closer at the bike nline and it did have 2 sets of bosses on it. should i also buy these at the bike shop? i seen them on amazon and they got horrible reviews. and you are right about the f my friends part. they not doing anything but wasting their money on other useless shit like 26' rims that they cant afford haha. man i wish they would smarten up sometimes.yea i was thinking the same thing about checking a local bike shop fow when the next ride is. Quote:
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08-10-2010, 09:23 AM | #70 |
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Almost any cage will work for you. They are a universal size so if you end up getting them online, don't worry they'll fit your frame just fine. It really comes down to color/style/material, and lastly how much you want to spend.
You can get them at your local shop, but you can probably get them online for less. nashbar.com performancebike.com jensonusa.com treefortbikes.com speedgoat.com are just a few of the sites out there where these types of things are available. |
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08-10-2010, 09:35 AM | #71 | |
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For bottles I use the Camlebak Podiums. You don't have to open and close them which is nice. Just squeeze the bottle and water comes out, stop squeezing and they seal. I have both the insulated and the non-insulated versions. Insulated ones are nice for the really hot summer days so the water stays cold. In the spring and fall though I use the non-insulated ones.
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08-10-2010, 09:51 AM | #72 |
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got the Garmin hooked up last night and did a short loop just to test it out, it should be a helpful tool
http://connect.garmin.com/activity/43890101
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08-10-2010, 10:03 AM | #73 | |
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It is a great tool, it really keeps you honest and motivated. |
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08-10-2010, 11:56 AM | #74 |
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I'm looking at upgrading my computer to a Garmin. I think that it tracks some really useful information.
First though, is a set of Zipp 404s. I've set some goals to meet before I get the zipps (cause they're effin expensive), but next on the list of upgrades will be the Garmin. |
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08-10-2010, 12:15 PM | #76 | |
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08-10-2010, 12:22 PM | #77 |
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Your first purchase beside Helmet, Cages, water bottle, the basics should be Clipless shoes and pedals.
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08-10-2010, 12:23 PM | #78 |
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Tubular or clincher? There are some fire sales on the old clinchers now that the full carbons are finally out. I'm waiting for them to move the 303's to full carbon clinchers, but also need a set of tubies for cx season.
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08-10-2010, 12:37 PM | #79 |
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Clincher actually.... and yes, I'm noticing the price reductions.
Incidentally, have you seen any real specs/photos of the full carbon clinchers? I'd like to check them out. |
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08-10-2010, 12:38 PM | #80 |
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08-10-2010, 12:39 PM | #81 | |
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08-10-2010, 12:44 PM | #82 | |
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The tune up is somethign that you will need at around the 100 mile mark (all new bikes need one). Essentially all of your shifter cables/brake cables will have stretched a bit from use and everything will need to be dialed back in. It should only take a few minutes to adjust everything. The 100 miles is just a average interval. In the weeks after you buy you might notice your bike making noises while shifting/not braking as effectively, etc. This signals that you need the tune-up. Might be only after 50 miles. *shrug* |
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08-10-2010, 12:44 PM | #83 |
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Your brake and shifter cables are going to stretch through use. Things will need to be adjusted afterwards. It's a simple procedure to adjust your own gears, something you should learn how to do, but have the shop do it in the beginning if you're not confident.
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08-10-2010, 12:46 PM | #84 |
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I have a planet protege 9.0 wireless... ~$40. It's honestly a great little computer and has all the info you'd ever really need.
http://ecom1.planetbike.com/8003.html I just want the GPS/HR/Cadence, etc. that comes with the Garmin. |
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08-10-2010, 12:48 PM | #85 |
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so do you get a tune up ever 100 miles? i suppose i could look on youtube on how to do it also. for rest of the tune ups.
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08-10-2010, 12:53 PM | #86 | |
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My issue is that I'm built like a brick shit-house, so I need either the 404 MAX, or a custom built set using some 24/28 505 rims (same rim profile as the 404 series). I spoke with Zipp a couple days ago and they say that there is no difference in the rim, just the lacing, etc. Looks like I can get a custom set built up with DuraAce hubs for about $400 less than retail on the 404 MAX, so I might be going that route. |
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08-10-2010, 12:56 PM | #87 | |
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The first one will be the major one... typically after that tuning things up is semi-rare, but will of course vary depending on how much you ride/how hard you are on your bike. The most common thing (for me anyway) is the occaisional drive train tweak. But again it's always minimal. There are lots of adjustments that you'll figure out how to do along the way that should keep you out of the LBS for everything but the major stuff. When you pick up your bike make sure you talk with the mechanic so he can give you a run down of all the the "trim" adjustments you can make on your own with no tools, etc. |
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08-10-2010, 01:07 PM | #88 | |
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Have you considered the Edge 2.45 rims with Dura Ace hubs? Since Edge has a lot more history with full carbon clinchers, and the 2.45s are super stiff, I think I'd lean this route. A set laced 2x with 24f and 28r should be just about bomb proof. I ride with a few guys on the new 404 cc, but haven't really checked them out too closely. They don't seem to have any issues with them, but I don't know of many issues with any carbon clinchers, Edge, Easton or Reynolds (aside from most Reynolds being a little flexy and their suspect hub quality). |
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