My HOME THEATER Setup is Nearly Complete...

[ShopVac]

Originally Posted by TXSTYLE

With a stash like yours at your bar, I'm surprised you're not more active here:
http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1221304

I'm all through there. Just haven't done anything new in a while.

I've been looking for plantation xo or 20 for years now...everyone talks about it, PA doesn't sell it.

Actually in looking, I'm #5 in posting on that thread. How's that for alcoholism. But I can step up my game if needed.

[Zing]

Originally Posted by zx10guy

I find my "lowly" 5.2 system

Originally Posted by NCThreePedals

I have a 5.2.4 Atmos system consisting of:

Where are you guys getting this ".2" from?

[TXSTYLE]

Originally Posted by ShopVac

I'm all through there. Just haven't done anything new in a while.

I've been looking for plantation xo or 20 for years now...everyone talks about it, PA doesn't sell it.

Actually in looking, I'm #5 in posting on that thread. How's that for alcoholism. But I can step up my game if needed.

Oooops LOL! Guess in the last couple of pages I hadn't seen you. Man oh man... PLANTATION XO is my absolute favorite spirit of them all and THAT is saying something! I would seriously go to a local store and have them special order you a bottle. Especially if there are large chain liquor stores there. They can get it. It is seriously that delicious.

[ShopVac]

Originally Posted by Zing

Where are you guys getting this ".2" from?

2 subs. If I did 2 subs it'd rock my house apart. My Onkyo can do it...just don't see the need for more

Actually, I lied on my 7.1 system...it is a 5.2.2 Atmos but can run either way (set as 5.1.2 now). Must he the medication I'm on at the moment...

[Zing]

Originally Posted by ShopVac

2 subs. If I did 2 subs it'd rock my house apart. My Onkyo can do it...just don't see the need for more

Actually, I lied on my 7.1 system...it is a 5.2.2 Atmos but can run either way (set as 5.1.2 now). Must he the medication I'm on at the moment...

I was just looking for clarification.

Some people don't realize that those numbers correlate to the number of discrete channels. And those people often incorrectly think that, because they have two subs, that they now have a 5.2 system. When in reality what they have is a 5.1 system with two subs. But if you're sending a separate and distinct signal to each of your subs, then .2 is valid.

By the way, as long as your house isn't made of paper mache, two subs won't hurt anything. I've got two dual-15" driver subs that I punish with LFE content and I've yet to destroy anything.

[zx10guy]

Originally Posted by Zing

I was just looking for clarification.

Some people don't realize that those numbers correlate to the number of discrete channels. And those people often incorrectly think that, because they have two subs, that they now have a 5.2 system. When in reality what they have is a 5.1 system with two subs. But if you're sending a separate and distinct signal to each of your subs, then .2 is valid.

By the way, as long as your house isn't made of paper mache, two subs won't hurt anything. I've got two dual-15" driver subs that I punish with LFE content and I've yet to destroy anything.

Mine is a .2 or two discrete sub setup. I forget where I have things crossed over and the slope but my Velodyne HGS15II begins to pick up around 80 Hz and I have it cut off at around 40 Hz. From around 40 Hz on down is where my Velodyne DD18 picks up.

[zx10guy]

Since this is turning into another post up your HT/AV system, here's mine.

Pioneer Kuro 141FD Signature (ISF calibrated by D-Nice from AVS Forum)
Oppo Digital BDP-103 Darbee Edition (may replace with UDP-203 I just bought)
Meridian HD621
Meridian G65
Bryston 6B-ST
Emotiva XPA-2

B&W Nautilus N804 (left, right, left rear, and right rear)
B&W Nautilus HTM-1
Velodyne HGS15II w/Velodyne SMS-1 EQ
Velodyne DD18

Equitech 2Q balanced power line conditioner on dedicated 20A circuit
Equitech 1.5BQ wired in balanced power transformer
Equitech 2BQ wired in balanced power transformer

VPI HW19Jr w/ MKIII platter upgrade turntable
Audioquest PT9 tonearm
Sumiko Blue Point Special EVO III HO MC cartridge
Vincent Audio PHO-700 tube phono preamp

Acoustical room treatments from Acoustical Solutions

Room EQ'd via Meridian Room Correction and Velodyne SMS/DD



Balanced power transformers with 100A subpanel added when room was built.

[TXSTYLE]

Originally Posted by zx10guy

Since this is turning into another post up your HT/AV system, here's mine.

Pioneer Kuro 141FD Signature (ISF calibrated by D-Nice from AVS Forum)
Oppo Digital BDP-103 Darbee Edition (may replace with UDP-203 I just bought)
Meridian HD621
Meridian G65
Bryston 6B-ST
Emotiva XPA-2

B&W Nautilus N804 (left, right, left rear, and right rear)
B&W Nautilus HTM-1
Velodyne HGS15II w/Velodyne SMS-1 EQ
Velodyne DD18

Equitech 2Q balanced power line conditioner on dedicated 20A circuit
Equitech 1.5BQ wired in balanced power transformer
Equitech 2BQ wired in balanced power transformer

VPI HW19Jr w/ MKIII platter upgrade turntable
Audioquest PT9 tonearm
Sumiko Blue Point Special EVO III HO MC cartridge
Vincent Audio PHO-700 tube phono preamp

Acoustical room treatments from Acoustical Solutions

Room EQ'd via Meridian Room Correction and Velodyne SMS/DD

Attachment 1847887

Balanced power transformers with 100A subpanel added when room was built.
Attachment 1847888

Nice man! I would LOVE to hear some vinyl playing through that setup!

[zx10guy]

Originally Posted by TXSTYLE

Nice man! I would LOVE to hear some vinyl playing through that setup!

Thanks. If you're ever out in the DC area, hit me up!

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by TXSTYLE

So this has been one of my "most anticipated" projects ever! I have taken my sweet time and boy has it payed off BIGTIME! To say that the PQ and thunderous sound system is impressive, is an understatement...

Current Setup:
The Epson 5040UB is absolutely incredible! I researched projectors for months, scouring the web for reviews, stats, calibration settings, etc. I believe for what it offers overall: PQ and hands-free remote Keystone adjustments, it was an easy decision for me. Everything I have thrown at it: 4K downloads, XBOX One gaming, DirecTV, Blu Ray looks fantastic! I am so happy our home has Cat6 wiring. I went with AT&T Fiber Optics for internet, Our PS4 and XBOX downloads/updates are crazy fast.
I have 1 sub in the rear but plan to add another up front also. The Center channel is not in this pic but present.

Stay tuned for more... ;

Play God Of War on that, and tell us how it is

[NCThreePedals]

Originally Posted by Zing

Where are you guys getting this ".2" from?

Two subwoofers, everyone in the industry uses the ".1" or ".2" as how many subs are in the system so a 5.1 is 5 main channels plus a sub and so forth.

I agree with you, two subwoofers does not mean louder, just means you're covering the whole sweep and making sure the room is pressurized.

[Zing]

Originally Posted by NCThreePedals

Two subwoofers, everyone in the industry uses the ".1" or ".2" as how many subs are in the system so a 5.1 is 5 main channels plus a sub and so forth.

This is all kinds of incorrect. A person could have 8 subwoofers connected but if they're all being fed the same LFE signal, the system doesn't magically become 5.8. That was my earlier point. The numbers are derived from the amount of discrete channels carrying independent audio signals and not the number of speakers.

Let's try this. You have one center channel speaker. Why? Because there's only one center channel. Let's say you split the signal and install a second center channel speaker. Is your system now 6.1? No, it's not. It's still 5.1. Why? Because there is only one center channel and both center speakers are reproducing the exact same signal.

The .1 doesn't change, regardless of how many subwoofers you have, until each of the subwoofers are being fed something different that the others are not.

[TXSTYLE]

Zing is correct.

But the masses including myself generally refer to the sub number after the "."

[Zing]

The masses also write "your" when they should write "you're". That doesn't make them correct.

I'm just trying to help educate. That's all.

[TXSTYLE]

Oh brother... Tried to give you credit and you have to clap back. *sigh

[ShopVac]

Back on track...is there a website that has more codes for setting up remote controls? I can't find a code that allows my main Tivo system remote to work the volume on my Onkyo unit.

Or...is there a really good remote out there that truly runs everything? Running 4 remotes right now cause I can't get one to do everything. Suggestions?

[zx10guy]

I've posted this pic before. It's the actual in room measured response doing a frequency sweep. It's done via Trifield DSP mode on my old Meridian 568.2MM but the sub setup is the same as I've described with each sub getting discrete signals.



I didn't think to take a picture of what the current in room response is with my new G65 processor adding in Meridian Room Correction into the mix. But it's pretty similar.

With the setup this way, the bass goes deep without any boom. The musicality and integration of the subs with the main speakers is extremely transparent. My buddy who managed an A/V store where I got some of my equipment from came over to audition the system when it was completed. He commented on how well everything is dialed in. And this is the reason why I have not bothered to audition anything new...especially speakers. I don't need to go down that financial rat hole....although if I had to do it again...I would have not purchased the HTM-1 center speaker and picked up a N804 floor stander instead to get 100% exact sonic matching across all channels.

[zx10guy]

Originally Posted by ShopVac

Back on track...is there a website that has more codes for setting up remote controls? I can't find a code that allows my main Tivo system remote to work the volume on my Onkyo unit.

Or...is there a really good remote out there that truly runs everything? Running 4 remotes right now cause I can't get one to do everything. Suggestions?

People have a love hate relationship with Harmony remotes. While they're not the most flexible, the system generally works well. If the remote you have is not in their extensive database, you can have the remote learn the functions of the remote. I did this with a Fosmon HDMI switcher. Nothing in the Harmony database but was able to eliminate the remote for the Fosmon by going through the learning process. I think the cool thing is since your configurations are cloud based, any odd ball remote eventually gets pulled into their database.

[TXSTYLE]

Originally Posted by ShopVac

Back on track...is there a website that has more codes for setting up remote controls? I can't find a code that allows my main Tivo system remote to work the volume on my Onkyo unit.

Or...is there a really good remote out there that truly runs everything? Running 4 remotes right now cause I can't get one to do everything. Suggestions?

Great question. Years ago I tried a Harmony (widely considered the best) and although it worked (a few specific detail controls it didn'y) I simply prefer the 4 or 5 remotes. I know them all by touch. And really, once the TV/projector is on, I only use the Receiver remote for volume and sound programs and my Android remote to skim through recordings or to browse.
But if you def want a universal, go with Harmony Elite. It wasn't available back when I used one. Reviews are stellar!

[zx10guy]

In general, I do like the Harmony remotes. But there are some really annoying things about them. Of all the Harmony remotes I've had, the Harmony One was the best in practical use. I don't know who came up with the layout first...whether it was DirecTV or Logitech or someone else. But the layout of the Harmony One or the old school DirecTV remote was just perfect. It was large enough to have all the main buttons you would want to access without scrolling through soft buttons/menus, but small enough to be practical. What I didn't like about the Harmony One was the lack of being able to set the sleep timeout of the remote. I would be in the middle of fast forwarding through a recorded show and miss where I want to stop because I had to wake the remote back up. Plus there seems to be a sensitivity issue as pressing the button is sometimes not enough. You have to press again to get the remote to recognize you pushed that button.

And the most annoying thing about Harmony remotes...the stupid low battery warning. I seem to recall if the remote takes alkaline batteries then it'll just keep going until the batteries lose power without the stupid annoying warning. With the ones which have rechargeable batteries, it'll throw up the annoying low battery warning. You then have to acknowledge the stupid warning before you can use the remote again. The Harmony One is notorious for this. The dumb thing should just throw up the warning once if Logitech is so insistent on having it. But the dumb thing keeps popping up as if to nag you to throw the remote on the charger. At least the Harmony 1100 allows the physical buttons to still work but the touch screen is locked out. Especially when you get the final warning about low battery....you can't click OK to get past it.

While on the Harmony 1100, I want to know what idiot at Logitech thought it was a good idea to make the pause button the largest button in the playback controls and have it dead center while the play button is a small little button that the pause button normally should be. I called support on this and there's no way to change the buttons nor is there a way to reassign the functions where the big pause button is now the play button even though it shows pause.

I have one of the Elite remotes now but haven't had a chance to run it through its paces.

[Dog Face Pony Soldier]

Originally Posted by Zing

This is all kinds of incorrect. A person could have 8 subwoofers connected but if they're all being fed the same LFE signal, the system doesn't magically become 5.8. That was my earlier point. The numbers are derived from the amount of discrete channels carrying independent audio signals and not the number of speakers.

Let's try this. You have one center channel speaker. Why? Because there's only one center channel. Let's say you split the signal and install a second center channel speaker. Is your system now 6.1? No, it's not. It's still 5.1. Why? Because there is only one center channel and both center speakers are reproducing the exact same signal.

The .1 doesn't change, regardless of how many subwoofers you have, until each of the subwoofers are being fed something different that the others are not.

I understand what you're getting at, but you're not using the correct industry-standard terminology. Even though there isn't discrete information being sent to multiple subwoofers, the .x number is used to describe the number of locations. As evidence I'd point to legacy Dolby surround systems from 20 years ago that didn't have discrete surround channels, but we still called them 5-channel systems.

To prove my bonafides, this is what I do for a living. Here is the 7.1.4 room we're building at the moment in Montclair NJ... It actually has 4 subwoofers, but it still can rightfully be called a ".1" as they're all acoustically coupled in one location (lined up below the 2.35:1 acoustically-transparent screen).

This happens to be our first room using SONY's bad ass VPL-VW5000ES LASER (rec.2020 capable) 4K projector. The room will cost ~$100k without equipment, but including custom Cinema Tech seating, Owens Corning custom acoustic treatments, and starlight ceiling.

[TXSTYLE]

Originally Posted by glennQNYC

I understand what you're getting at, but you're not using the correct industry-standard terminology. Even though there isn't discrete information being sent to multiple subwoofers, the .x number is used to describe the number of locations. As evidence I'd point to legacy Dolby surround systems from 20 years ago that didn't have discrete surround channels, but we still called them 5-channel systems.

To prove my bonafides, this is what I do for a living. Here is the 7.1.4 room we're building at the moment in Montclair NJ... It actually has 4 subwoofers, but it still can rightfully be called a ".1" as they're all acoustically coupled in one location (lined up below the 2.35:1 acoustically-transparent screen).

This happens to be our first room using SONY's bad ass VPL-VW5000ES LASER (rec.2020 capable) 4K projector. The room will cost ~$100k without equipment, but including custom Cinema Tech seating, Owens Corning custom acoustic treatments, and starlight ceiling.

That's what I'm talking about and thanks for the clarification.