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      01-11-2024, 07:19 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000cs View Post
With good use (don’t put things down that don’t biodegrade, no bleach, no grease, etc), it can be a long time, or never, to need pumping.

I’ve had two houses with septic systems, both for 4 bedrooms, both occupied before us by a couple with occasional visitors, and neither needed pumping when we bought (5 years after last pump).
I understand that if you have a 4 bedroom system w/2 people that the system can go longer between pumps but eventually, you need to or at least should have someone pump the scum and sludge. But never?

Are you saying the sludge will eventually biodegrade?

Last edited by omasou; 01-11-2024 at 07:37 AM..
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      01-11-2024, 07:32 AM   #24
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I actually went 14 years (!) without getting the septic pumped -- it was overdue to be sure. More recently went 5 years.

I did a large addition to the house in 2010, adding a bathroom (taking the count to three) but not a bedroom (my setup is three bedrooms + disposal but only two persons) and the county insisted upon adding a second septic tank for the addition but without a leach field. Instead, they specified a line that pumps from the new tank to the old tank, thereby integrating the two tanks. Talk about $$$...
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      01-11-2024, 07:48 AM   #25
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OP I cannot find anything information about never having to pump the DBox. What I did find is what can happen if you don't.


A concrete D-box can typically last up to 20 years. However, in the event of sludge buildup, tree root invasions, improper maintenance, heavy machinery on top of the box or other issues that can cause unrepairable damage to your distribution box, you may need to replace it. Some signs of a failed box could look very similar to a septic tank system blockage or a leach field issue.
https://www.kulksplumbing.com/what-i...tribution-box/


Frequency
The cost to get a septic tank pumped can rise drastically when property owners aren't keeping up with having a tank pumped every three to five years.

Not pumping a tank on schedule will cause solids to build up until a tank's holding capacity is diminished, which results in a clog.

See #4 & #5, in the section 5 Ways to Save on Septic Tank Pumping Costs.

https://www.angi.com/articles/how-mu...mping-cost.htm


BTW, the prices listed on the link above seem high, as a reference my last pumping cost was $240, so shop around. Public sewage in my area is ~$300 yearly vs. my $240/3 years.

Last edited by omasou; 01-11-2024 at 08:18 AM..
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      01-11-2024, 08:02 AM   #26
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The bedroom based thing is important if you buy an older home with a septic system. The original system was probably sized according to the number of bedrooms. If you expand the house by adding a dormered upstairs area or add a bedroom over a garage, for example, you can run into issues with the local authorities about your now undersized septic system. Can cause problems if you try to sell the house.
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      01-11-2024, 08:11 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omasou View Post



The picture you included is basically how it works. The waste exits the house, into the first holding tank to let the solids settle. This is what needs to be pumped. The waste water rises until it floats over the divider into the second tank. A pump pumps the water into the leaching field/sand mound through perforated PVC pipes and leaches/filters downward through the sand into the earth until it hits the water table. Sounds like M_Six has a slightly different system.
My small neighborhood is built on a finger of land that slopes down on two sides. Like a ridge. My land, like most of the houses in the hood, is largely a hill sloping down from the front of the house. We have a walkout basement. Our back yard is maybe 25' of grass and then the woods, which is on the side of a hill. So there's no place for a leaching field. Hence the outfall pipe. There is one house in our neighborhood that had a failed system and when they had it repaired, they replaced the tank/outfall pipe system with a leaching field system. But they had a large side yard area, so they were able to do that.
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      01-11-2024, 08:14 AM   #28
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I've lived in my house since 2007 and it was built in 2005 and my septic system has given me zero troubles. I have it cleaned out every 4-6 years just to make sure, but it has never given me any issues at all. *KNOCKS WOOD*

Best thing about a septic system??? It usually mean you are far enough away from other asshole people that you can't connect to a sewer system - which is well worth it to not have annoying ass neighbors which will FOR SURE be a problem - far worse than a septic system. LOL
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      01-11-2024, 01:17 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omasou View Post
I understand that if you have a 4 bedroom system w/2 people that the system can go longer between pumps but eventually, you need to or at least should have someone pump the scum and sludge. But never?

Are you saying the sludge will eventually biodegrade?
If you only put in biodegradable stuff, then yes that should be true. If you put in feminine products, grease, etc. then it won’t degrade. We are not perfect, lots of stuff goes down that I would probably prefer not, especially when we have visitors.

I get mine inspected every 5 years, and pumped if necessary. Usually just a couple of inches in there, plenty of capacity available.

I have never had a problem with the D-Box, but if the tank overflowed it would run into the dbox and then the leach lines - which could be a very expensive problem (dig the whole system up and repair/replace). Maintenance of the system, like our cars, keeps long-term costs down. Having no trees or invasive roots near the d-box or leach lines is really a good thing.
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      01-11-2024, 01:29 PM   #30
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I currently have septic and basically it's been just like living in the city other than making sure I get the annual maintenance done and then a 5 year re-inspection. The only major thing to make sure you don't do is put feminine hygeine products or other non-dissolvable items in there. You're just asking for trouble. You might think you have crude oil bubbling up but the smell will tell you otherwise lol. Eventually the city will make it out to me and it won't be that big a deal to hook up at that time.

Main thing to check if you're buying a house with septic is to ensure it meets code for the number of rooms/occupants the house was built to. Older houses are more likely to have a problem since an addition may have been built while the septic system was overlooked and then too small for the now bigger home and more people.
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      01-11-2024, 01:31 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranquility View Post
Oh, silly question: so water supply is from the city but sewers are not because it's harder to build the latter's infrastructure? Someone mentioned that they have a well, so they only get their water there? I just assume that those new houses I was looking at has city water supply, don't tell me it could be something else haha.
I have city water and home septic. It's common. They can run the water to you but it's more difficult to handle/filter the sewage, plus they need capacity. Water and sewer are completely separate as you'd expect in a residential area.
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      01-11-2024, 02:41 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unluky View Post
Best thing about a septic system??? It usually mean you are far enough away from other asshole people that you can't connect to a sewer system - which is well worth it to not have annoying ass neighbors which will FOR SURE be a problem - far worse than a septic system. LOL
LOL (note to self: septic system=less aholes, ok, got it!)
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      01-11-2024, 04:05 PM   #33
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Wells and septic systems are pretty common around me but we chose to prioritize buying in a neighborhood on city water and sewer to bypass any real concerns about maintenance, well water or septic problems. I lived in a house with a septic system when I was a kid and remember problems, but not specifically what they were. I also have a friend who had a problem with their septic system because the builder installed a septic system that was too small for their house once they had kids and was costly and difficult to repair. If I recall they ended up spending many thousands of dollars to connect to the sewer system years later because they never got it straightened out, probably because they kept getting sold on “easy” solutions doomed to fail because the system was too small.
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      01-13-2024, 01:21 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranquility View Post
...

I'm analyzing this diagram and am confused about some things:
1. why are there 2 lines, plumbing (why is there a 'vent'?) and septic?
2. I guess the drainer/maintenance guy accesses the tank where the scum/sludge is located? How can he possibly check the whole system for prbs?
3. is this setup ideal or would it be better on a slope where the house is higher elevation, then the septic tank, then the leachfield?
4. someone mentioned electricity loss being a prb, what did they mean since I don't see any moving parts?


Totally new question: what happens in cases where there is no city water access? I guess one needs to install a well? How does that work and what are the concerns? I would imagine the biggest ones being limited supply and if the quality if good enough?
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      01-13-2024, 01:45 PM   #35
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I've lived with septic systems for most of my life and honestly I would not have it any other way. Here are a few things I know or have learned
The system must be properly designed, sized and constructed.
I really recommended pea stone under the tanks and connecting pipes with proper compaction to eliminate setting. Have risers on the tanks to ground level rather than letting some lazy contractor bury the lids.
The only system that is legal in most area's uses a dosing tank before the leach field. If your codes don't require that do it any way. The field will last a lot longer.
The field should have clean outs on the ends of the runs. I cut mine to ground level and I fit screw on caps. It makes mowing easier and when I need to flush the leach fields it is easy to find the clean outs.
Keep heavy equipment off the system.
Read up on what you can put down the system. I do use a garbage disposal but it is seldom used as I use a composter most of the time.
The best part of having a septic system is having a well. Have the water tested and treat as required. I do have to run a water softener. When I go to friends who are on city water, I can't stand the taste of their water. Well water makes a much better cup of coffee IMO
Last but not least know that the cost in maintaining a septic and well pale by comparison to the monthly cost of most water/sewage bills and if you are ever in a sewer assessment you will rue the day you got hooked up.

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      01-13-2024, 01:54 PM   #36
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We have a $175 annual maintenance contract with the septic company that installed our system. Sometimes it feels a bit like extortion. (That's a nice septic system you got there. Be a shame if something happened to it.) They supposedly come around once a year to inspect the system and they'll pump it free of charge if it needs it. In 22 years of living here, I've never seen them come by. But I have asked about it before and they always come up with a date and time they were here.

That said, the contract also covers labor should the system need repair. Last year our aerator died, so we had to have it replaced. We paid for the new one, but the septic company pumped and cleaned the tank and installed the new aerator and alarm system free of charge. I guess we're good to go for another decade or so.
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      01-13-2024, 09:39 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranquility View Post
Totally new question: what happens in cases where there is no city water access? I guess one needs to install a well? How does that work and what are the concerns? I would imagine the biggest ones being limited supply and if the quality if good enough?
There are unknowns. Could be going 150 ft, could be drilling 450 ft. Could encounter rock. Could be dry and have to drill again elsewhere.

You’ll pay by the foot to drill, and you’ll want a minimum, adequate flow for the house size. No guarantees on finding water or enough of it. Water testing may result in a variety of needs to purify - some just need a softener, other need UV and other items.

If you lose electricity, you lose water. Gotta have it for the pump.

All told, I think it tastes better and at least I know what’s in it!
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      01-13-2024, 10:10 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spazzyfry123 View Post
There are unknowns. Could be going 150 ft, could be drilling 450 ft. Could encounter rock. Could be dry and have to drill again elsewhere.

You’ll pay by the foot to drill, and you’ll want a minimum, adequate flow for the house size. No guarantees on finding water or enough of it. Water testing may result in a variety of needs to purify - some just need a softener, other need UV and other items.

If you lose electricity, you lose water. Gotta have it for the pump.

All told, I think it tastes better and at least I know what’s in it!
Tx. Wow, that sounds precarious, well going dry and having to drill again? I also heard about the ground 'dropping elevation' (I dunno the correct term) if too much water is pulled up

How does well water compare to city water in terms of health safety?

Needing a well seems there will be way more potential prbs vs needing a septic tank.
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      01-14-2024, 07:18 AM   #39
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Once you’ve got a well, you’re pretty set. Just maintain the system.

Feel free to search for images of the inside of municipal water systems!
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      01-14-2024, 08:03 AM   #40
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Usually the drillers have a good idea of the depth and rock so will guide you on drilling. Well water should be tested, can have a funny taste or odor which bothers some and others don’t mind. I have friends on wells who use it for everything except drinking - buy bottled water for that. Others just filter it.

Wells are located outside of the septic field, etc so they don’t get contaminated.

We are on city water and septic, and that is the arrangement we had in KY too.
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      01-14-2024, 08:50 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000cs View Post
Usually the drillers have a good idea of the depth and rock so will guide you on drilling. Well water should be tested, can have a funny taste or odor which bothers some and others don’t mind. I have friends on wells who use it for everything except drinking - buy bottled water for that. Others just filter it.

Wells are located outside of the septic field, etc so they don’t get contaminated.

We are on city water and septic, and that is the arrangement we had in KY too.
We are in a rental while our home is being built. It is on city water and sewage. No issues with the sewage, but the water is pretty questionable. Ends of the faucets have to be regularly cleaned with some I-don't-know-what-that-creature-is stuff hanging on the end and build-up.

The new place will be the polar opposite - well water and septic. It is our county code that the well must be a minimum of 150 ft from anything septic related.
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      01-14-2024, 11:45 AM   #42
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To ppl w well systems....are there any concerns about freezing? I live in Canada so haha.
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      01-14-2024, 12:04 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranquility View Post
To ppl w well systems....are there any concerns about freezing? I live in Canada so haha.
My dad had a place in Smithers, B.C. We were often there after freezing weather and just had a 100w light bulb in the well to keep the frost out. Never had a problem - but we did drain the water and remove the pump for the worst of winter (when we weren’t there). There are all kinds of heat systems and other protections for water wells - just check locally to see what the practice is.

On the other hand, with city water I have had the meter freeze several times, different houses. Fortunately not hard enough to break pipes or the meter but enough to stop all flow. Took my longest extension cords and hair dryers/heat guns to get it flowing again (and several hours), then buried it in straw to help keep the cold from settling back in. Always leave a faucet at a fast drip during extreme cold, too.
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      01-14-2024, 02:01 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranquility View Post
To ppl w well systems....are there any concerns about freezing? I live in Canada so haha.
With a submersible well pump and pitless adapter (deeper wells), everything is under ground below the frost line.

A shallow well (less than 15 meters) with an above-ground jet pump is more prone to freezing, and needs to be in a heated environment of some sort.

I'll let you Google pitless adapter, one pipe versus two pipe jet pumps, etc.....
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