New Ytest
Sign out
Bimmerpost
Login
BMW E39 5-Series Forum | 5Post.com
BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Today's Posts  
Go Back   BMW E39 5-Series Forum | 5Post.com > BIMMERPOST Universal Forums > General BMW News and Cars Discussion

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      06-15-2017, 04:09 PM   #23
David70
Colonel
1755
Rep
2,835
Posts

 
Drives: 20 AM Vantage -13 Cadillac ATS
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Cincinnati, OH

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
Using your example numbers. The salvage cost $7k less and had $1k less depreciation.
So doesnt that mean in that example a salvage car would have saved $8k total over buying the clean titled one?
In my example

I buy a standard car for $20k and sell it for $15k so it cost me $5k for the time I owned it (20-15=5).

Or I buy the salvage car for $13k and sell it for $9k and it cost me $4k for the time I owned it (13-9=4).

The salvage costs a lot less when you buy it but you will also get less for it when you sell it and this should be considered.
__________________
2006 Z4M Coupe - ZHP knob, stubby antenna, clutch delay delete
Appreciate 0
      06-15-2017, 06:49 PM   #24
BEM-S4
Major General
BEM-S4's Avatar
United_States
4529
Rep
8,942
Posts

 
Drives: Dinan M235, Dinan Sport Wagon
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Philadelphia

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott
Quote:
Originally Posted by David70 View Post
If you plan to only keep it for a couple of years I think the savings on the salvage title car looks better than it is because of the low resale. Example - buy non salvage for $20k and sell it down the road for $15k, or buy the $13k salvage ($7k less than the non salvage) and sell it for $9k and you saved $1k. These are made up numbers but I don't see the savings being the original $7k no matter how it works out.
Using your example numbers. The salvage cost $7k less and had $1k less depreciation.
So doesnt that mean in that example a salvage car would have saved $8k total over buying the clean titled one?
Wow. Just wow. Don't even know what to say.
__________________
2022 Macan S
2016 F31 328i xDrive Sport Wagon
2006 E46 330ci ZHP Convertible
Appreciate 0
      06-16-2017, 10:59 AM   #25
tdott
Brigadier General
4052
Rep
4,091
Posts

 
Drives: M3
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South FL / 6ix

iTrader: (4)

Quote:
Originally Posted by David70 View Post
In my example

I buy a standard car for $20k and sell it for $15k so it cost me $5k for the time I owned it (20-15=5).

Or I buy the salvage car for $13k and sell it for $9k and it cost me $4k for the time I owned it (13-9=4).

The salvage costs a lot less when you buy it but you will also get less for it when you sell it and this should be considered.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BEM-S4 View Post
Wow. Just wow. Don't even know what to say.
Ha, yea I was trying to understand his example and looking at it the wrong way. He's saying there is only a $1k difference at the end so it's not worth it to buy a salvage if the savings is only $1k. That make sense. Assuming you had $20k to spend, otherwise you'd be financing which might make the difference greater, probably still not worth buying a salvage unless the person really couldn't afford it. If you are not financing you have to consider the opportunity cost of what you could have done with that $7k you saved from the initial purchase.
Appreciate 0
      06-16-2017, 04:06 PM   #26
David70
Colonel
1755
Rep
2,835
Posts

 
Drives: 20 AM Vantage -13 Cadillac ATS
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Cincinnati, OH

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
Ha, yea I was trying to understand his example and looking at it the wrong way. He's saying there is only a $1k difference at the end so it's not worth it to buy a salvage if the savings is only $1k. That make sense. Assuming you had $20k to spend, otherwise you'd be financing which might make the difference greater, probably still not worth buying a salvage unless the person really couldn't afford it. If you are not financing you have to consider the opportunity cost of what you could have done with that $7k you saved from the initial purchase.
No big deal and you are right that there are other variables to consider. One is if you plan to drive it a really long time. Buy the non salvage at $20k and drive it until it is worth $2k or the non salvage for $13k and it might be worth $1000. Savings goes up as they both get closer to $0.
__________________
2006 Z4M Coupe - ZHP knob, stubby antenna, clutch delay delete
Appreciate 0
      06-16-2017, 04:19 PM   #27
bimmer456
Major General
3064
Rep
6,089
Posts

 
Drives: 340i
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Pasadena, CA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by David70 View Post
No big deal and you are right that there are other variables to consider. One is if you plan to drive it a really long time. Buy the non salvage at $20k and drive it until it is worth $2k or the non salvage for $13k and it might be worth $1000. Savings goes up as they both get closer to $0.
Like I said earlier, spend no more than $200 on a salvage car. If you part it out you'll make some money. If it drives maybe you can use it as a daily driver if it's well sorted. Salvage is just the title, it could be a perfectly good car that you can score a deal on. Spend more than a grand and you're spending too much unless it's something really rare or something.
Appreciate 0
      06-16-2017, 04:29 PM   #28
doc_faraday
Registered
3
Rep
4
Posts

 
Drives: 2011 X3
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: USA

iTrader: (0)

Having purchased, driven, and selling a salvaged vehicle before, it's not worth the hassle. You'll forever be chasing alignment issues, electrical gremlins, replacing parts prematurely, and then explaining to whoever you are trying to sell it to that you've fixed the issues (as far as you know) and that it's not a rolling money pit any longer (which it still could be despite your best efforts).

It's a lottery and I can't remember a post on any forum for any vehicle talking about how happy they were to have bought salvaged. Just a new guy's opinion, though.
Appreciate 1
CalCarNut1064.50
      06-16-2017, 09:30 PM   #29
supra93
Colonel
2584
Rep
2,336
Posts

 
Drives: Z4, E500, Supra, RX7, NSX
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: TX

iTrader: (0)

It does makes more sense if you plan on driving it for a really long time or until its on its last leg. For example my dad back in the days brought a new Camry LE for $20k. My mom being cheap brought the same car at the auction lightly flooded with 40k on it for $4k. It worked fine, water only got a few millimeters into the carpet.

My parents drove the crap out of them both for years. The clean title Camry ended up with 120k and sold for $2k. The flooded Camry had 168k on it and was sold for $1k. The funny part is they actually had less issues with the flooded Camry vs the brand new clean title Camry. I know its apples to oranges when comparing new vs pre owned + salvage. But the usage they out out from the two were roughly the same.

Everyone is going to have a different experience when it comes to buying and selling salvage/rebuilt cars. Personally, I had a really bad experience with a E60, but the rest of the buys were pretty good.

Last edited by supra93; 06-16-2017 at 09:36 PM..
Appreciate 0
      06-19-2017, 08:47 AM   #30
David70
Colonel
1755
Rep
2,835
Posts

 
Drives: 20 AM Vantage -13 Cadillac ATS
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Cincinnati, OH

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by supra93 View Post
It does makes more sense if you plan on driving it for a really long time or until its on its last leg. For example my dad back in the days brought a new Camry LE for $20k. My mom being cheap brought the same car at the auction lightly flooded with 40k on it for $4k. It worked fine, water only got a few millimeters into the carpet.

My parents drove the crap out of them both for years. The clean title Camry ended up with 120k and sold for $2k. The flooded Camry had 168k on it and was sold for $1k. The funny part is they actually had less issues with the flooded Camry vs the brand new clean title Camry. I know its apples to oranges when comparing new vs pre owned + salvage. But the usage they out out from the two were roughly the same.

Everyone is going to have a different experience when it comes to buying and selling salvage/rebuilt cars. Personally, I had a really bad experience with a E60, but the rest of the buys were pretty good.
Agree, I would also be much more likely to buy a $4k Camry over a $13k BMW, mostly because the worst case on a $4k car is losing around $4k but also because fixing the Camry is normally less money, less likely, and less difficult.
__________________
2006 Z4M Coupe - ZHP knob, stubby antenna, clutch delay delete
Appreciate 0
      06-19-2017, 09:26 AM   #31
IndotagSwizz
Major
IndotagSwizz's Avatar
535
Rep
1,235
Posts

 
Drives: F30 320i
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Miami

iTrader: (0)

If you have 2 identical cars but one of them has a good tittle and the other car has a rebuilt tittle, the one with the rebuilt tittle will be worth much less.
__________________
Appreciate 0
      07-03-2017, 07:37 PM   #32
CalCarNut
Brigadier General
CalCarNut's Avatar
United_States
1065
Rep
3,258
Posts

 
Drives: 2015 F36 Jet Black Sport Line
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Blue Skies

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
Putting aside the cost of the car (Salvage vs Non), INSURANCE companies typically hate (read higher cost to insure) Salvage Title cars, won't insure them or under-insure them. If the car is built poorly, it's not safe. Unless you're going to part one out, stick to non-salvage title cars imo.
__________________
2015 BMW F36 428i JetBlack. Sport Line Edition
25% 3M Tint|
Appreciate 0
      07-04-2017, 06:12 AM   #33
Efthreeoh
General
United_States
19017
Rep
19,636
Posts

 
Drives: The E90 + Z4 Coupe & Z3 R'ster
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Virginia

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by CalCarNut View Post
Putting aside the cost of the car (Salvage vs Non), INSURANCE companies typically hate (read higher cost to insure) Salvage Title cars, won't insure them or under-insure them. If the car is built poorly, it's not safe. Unless you're going to part one out, stick to non-salvage title cars imo.
I think this needs to be put in perspective however. So my E90, with a ton of miles on it, got hit in April 2016 by a deer. It was cosmetic damage on the left rear door and rear quarter panel. But being of the age and miles, a traditional repair of remove and replace body panels would have totaled the car, other than the fact the car is in perfect shape. I discussed this at length with my insurance agent (an M3 owner and a car guy - lucky for me). He assured me that if the repairs totaled the car due to value, he'd fully insure it, including full collision coverage, as if it had not been totaled and was of salvage title.

I got the car repaired via PDR (I posted a thread on it) and avoided the salvage title issue, but my insurance agent was clear that as long as the car is repaired to industry specification, it was re-insurable as if it were a new, undamaged car.
__________________
A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
Appreciate 1
CalCarNut1064.50
Post Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:50 AM.




5post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST