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10-11-2022, 01:33 PM | #23 |
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I'm into mid-fi since I don't want to spend hi-fi $$.
My little setup consist of: Speakers: Legacy Audio Classic II Amplifier: Yamaha AS-2000 Pre-amp (for TV only): Marantz SR5015 Streamer: BlueSound Power Node 2i Power Conditioner: Panamax M5100-PM This setup punches well above its weight class. Previously had some NHT surrounds and a center with it but it wasn't all that great and too many wires going everywhere. Office setup consists of" Speakers: NHT SB2 (these are great speakers. Power hungry but that's what the power amp is for) Power Amp: Emotiva xpa-2 gen 1 DAC: Cambridge Audio DacMagic Plus Source: MacBook or Pro-Ject Debut Carbon EVO turntable. Mostly, I use Tidal and YouTube Music. |
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10-12-2022, 03:42 PM | #24 | |
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10-13-2022, 06:46 AM | #25 |
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Nothing old, well thinking 90s or easier
Polk Audio LSI all around, 15s, 9s, 7s, C and FXs, been picking them up used and had Mose since new Emotiva Amp, thinking it a first generation or so Emotiva Processor, the 700. VAVA ultra short throw projector Wanting to switch up to an Atmos system, but will need more channels and a new processor. Moved into a new place a couple years ago. I have been struggling with speaker wire placement and concealment. I have a couple door thresholds to go over and the normal stuff. I don't really want to pull the crown molding, or the baseboards either. I have hardwood floors and carpet runners don't work for me either. Its kind of an industrial look house and have considered some small 4" wire trays, but that prob won't look home appropriate. Wondering what others have done. I could run them under the floor, but don't really want to drill into the floors either. Its really a 3 sided room, so all the wires need to run around the left wall and back as well. Another interesting issue with an ultra short throw projector is equipment under the screen needs to be minimized, or you will block the view. not a current pic below, but somewhat of an idea. The project is like 9 inches off the floor with a 8 foot table I made to hold the components. But speaker wires are a pain for me. I should go look at some AV forums, but have not made this a proirity lately.
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10-13-2022, 11:20 AM | #26 | |
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Here are some older pics of the back part of the room. You can see in the first pic where the cabling is coming out from the upper right corner to the speaker. |
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10-13-2022, 02:02 PM | #27 |
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Thanks, there is not much more to the room. To the right its open, the front wall is about 20 feet, the left side wall is around 20 feet with two doors. then the back wall is 20 or so feet with a door and an open bar area, then a kick in on the wall about 1/2 the way. The right side of the room is open to the kitchen and another sitting area, another 20-30 feet. Its not, but think open warehouse space.
I don't feel like cutting up the drywall and all the refinishing that will entail at this point. Not that it does not need some work... basically a 20x20 space, with an open side wall. The TV is an old 60" for reference.
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10-13-2022, 03:46 PM | #28 |
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You sort of elude to it but don't come out and say it. If you have access to the space under the floor of that room, you could drill/cut a hole in the floor in the spot where you have your equipment rack. To finish it off nicely install an electrical box and a nice floor plate to finish it off. Run the wires under the floor up to where the back wall is. Drill through the bottom wall plates and fish the wires up into the wall. Then cut out a boxed opening to install a wall plate to pull the speaker wire through.
If you don't have access to the space underneath, to me to do it right would be to cut up the dry wall and pull the speaker wires through. A/V installers do this all the time and it's really not a big deal to patch up the holes. |
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10-13-2022, 07:17 PM | #29 |
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overall wanting something a bit more flexible than in wall or under floor. It may come to that, but seems like things change and then you ned to do it all over again. I may have commitment issues.
I am thinking of open data center type racks around the perimeter of the ceiling. Not exactly that but something that will make it easy to add or move things around as needed. But back to the regularly schedule thread topic.
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10-13-2022, 09:06 PM | #30 |
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Hiding wires in a room of that size, is not hard to do. OR showcase your cables. All depends on what you're looking for and what the other half will allow. What are you looking to accomplish in terms of sound, aesthetics, and budget?
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10-14-2022, 06:55 AM | #31 |
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I was just asking if anyone had done any than different for speaker wire routing. Sounds like no, just in wall, in floor, .... I mentioned the look of data center cable trays as an option, but not sure that is good either.
As far as room size, budget, what will someone approve... not really the question. I did say an Atmos system, I have components now and will upgrade them, guess I thought this was implied. But not really the question either. Again, not to sound pissy, just trying to see if you all had any different thought or have seen any. To me, the technology changes rapidly for a whole room immersive system. Not sure being locked into in wall/floor stuff is great for a non dedicated room that may get re arranged at some point. again, back to the intent of the OP, what cool HiFi stuff do you have.
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10-14-2022, 07:21 AM | #32 |
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If you're willing to accept the looks and the mounting/holes you'd have to drill for ladder racks, then you might as well just have the cabling on the floor. Throw carpet runners on top or tape them down to prevent tripping. To me it's just about the same aesthetically.
I'm satisfied with my lowly 5.2 system. For me, it's the criticality of how the room is acoustically set up along with proper speaker placement. I've heard a Atmos system in the home of the owner of a very well known speaker manufacturer. The system was driven by some decent quality equipment. To me it was meh. I don't buy into the more speakers the better. I'm about what sounds good first. Anyone that has auditioned my system has come out amazed at how good it sounds and how the speakers just are not there as it should be. |
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10-17-2022, 11:16 AM | #33 |
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Audio is a serious thing for me - been an audiophile for many decades and have trouble selling anything - I just keep the gear in a second system and start a new one.
The reluctance to sell stuff I've owned for years probably accounts for owning too many cars, too. Old system Older system Current main system |
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10-17-2022, 12:16 PM | #34 | |
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And in your current system...Wilson Audio? |
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10-17-2022, 12:25 PM | #35 |
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Sansui 8080db
Dayton CBT24 line arrays with minidsp for correction 2x Dayton 12 subs Technics SLQ2 turntable with ortofon black cart Manley Chinook preamp for vinyl Sony MD Onix CD5 cd player Project Pre-box DAC for PC/MD/CD Nakamichi LX5 tape deck |
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10-17-2022, 12:55 PM | #36 |
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10-17-2022, 02:41 PM | #37 | |
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I've heard electrostatic speakers such as the MLs, Apogees, etc. How does the Wilson stack up? I've always been impressed with the purity and almost holographic presentation of music/vocals played through electrostatics. I didn't have the ability to properly set up these types up speakers in my previous living conditions. Now that I have a dedicated sound room, I sort of wish I had the option as I don't see them around anymore. I guess it's due to the finicky setup requirements and the need for amps that can arc weld. |
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10-17-2022, 03:11 PM | #38 |
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IMHO, very few of the Martin Logan speakers succeed at mating an electrostatic panel with a cone bass driver. I use that system to listen to acoustic music - it is magic with strings and you don't miss the low bass - it isn't a rock music system or one to listen to the 1812 Overture or organ recitals, as it is 3 dB down at around 45 Hz, and they are only 85 dB efficient and need a lot of current as they dip to 1 ohm at some frequencies (the Classe amp I use is a rare one that will put out all the current they can ask for and it is happy into 1 ohm loads).
The Wilsons are Maxx2s and are 2 dB down at 20 Hz. I use them in a combined audio/video system (video has different preamp and amp) and they have the cleanest lowest bass I have heard in a normal speaker. Tried them with the Jeff Rowland that I drive them with for video but prefer the Conrad Johnson tube power amp for sound only and they produce very low frequencies at levels I am happy with (although I use a pair of Hsu powered subs - 16 Hz at 2 dB down for video). |
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11-02-2022, 07:53 AM | #39 |
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I hope you found one in good working order. They seem to have quite a high failure rate. Instead, decades ago, I went with US-made Crown "D" and more recently "PS" series amps and a Studio Reference-II. I have several other US-made amps (Soundcraftsmen, Carver, JBL/Urei, Adcom, etc) but the Crowns still get the most use.
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11-02-2022, 08:11 AM | #40 |
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I run a basic Yamaha receiver with Klipsch kg speakers in a 5.1 setup. My uncle gifted me his 5.5 towers so I stuck with the series and spent timing finding more of them. I run a 2.5 center and currently 0.5 surrounds. I’ve got 1.5s and extra 2.5s too. I’ve got the basic modern 12” Klipsch subwoofer with it but the 5.5s arguably don’t need a separate woofer.
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11-03-2022, 08:19 PM | #41 | |
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11-03-2022, 08:47 PM | #42 |
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I had two Carver TFM-25s. They were bench tested and put out some ungodly amount of power when bridged. But the amps were prone to failure. I ended up sending them to someone on a Carver forum for free; he paid for shipping. I also had the service manuals for the amp which I threw in for him. The one good thing is the amps were really light.
Can't say that about the Bryston 6B-ST and the gen 1 Emotiva XPA-2s. It's a good thing I work out other wise there's no way anyone is moving them without risking hurting themselves. |
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