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      09-27-2016, 11:44 AM   #5197
dcstep
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Drives: '09 Cpe Silverstone FR 6MT
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2009 M3  [8.40]
Dmitriy, I think you'll love DxO's PRIME noise reduction. I leave the Chrominescence on 100%, since it doesn't crush detail at all. For Luminescence on things with fur and feathers, I pull it down to 30. The Default is a little high and does tend to blur detail. I also raise MicroContrast to around 30 when using PRIME. For things where micro detail is not so important, I leave it up at the Default.

I don't remember if you shoot Canon or not, but I do. For long-exposure night shots, I do use the in-camera noise reduction. It doubles the time that it takes for each shot, because it takes a second image with the shutter closed and then subtracts the resulting noise from the first shot. Since most of the light is point-source, being heavy handed with Luminescence has no major penalty.

If you want to keep LR as your base processor, Export to DxO, turn off all other adjustments, apply NR and MicroContrast, convert to TIFF and then send it back to LR for final processing.

While we're talking about complicating our lives, I've bought a software called Piccure+. Like PRIME, it does a pixel-by-pixel analysis for purposes of Sharpening, correcting for lens distortions and micro-movement of the camera. I posted examples here:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...ccure&page=426
Panes 9361 and 9362. Maybe I should added it to this thread. (I did, it's in the next Pane).

Anyway, it is the best sharpening tool that I've found. That example that I posted had tons of movement. No way that any software could get rid of all that subject-movement, but the improvement is dramatic. Looking at less flawed images at 200% and more, it's really impressive. I can't see halo or other artifacts in any image that I've used it on.
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Last edited by dcstep; 09-27-2016 at 11:52 AM..
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