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      01-12-2009, 07:44 PM   #1
allsystemsgo
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Car wont start even with jump

Hey all,

I apologize in advanced if this is a repost, I did search the forums before posting and couldn't find anything that fit this problem.

So I left my car at school for the winter break(about 3 weeks it was unused) and returned last night to find that my battery was dead, so dead I hadda use the key manually to unlock just the driver door. I got my roommate to give me a jump, with his car running and battery hooked up to mine, my car lights came on, radio, dash lights, all that. But when I turned the key all the way over to start the car, it just made a clicking sound(like a relay just going click-click-click for as long as i held the key) I tried multiple times but just got the same result, even with him revving up his engine mine would just not turn over.

I was wondering if it was some type of security measure that locked the starter in case of theft, or if I'm supposed to reset something before starting the car from dead. I even unlocked the car and pressed the disarm button a few times once the battery was hooked up in case the car was still armed. Maybe the alternator or the starter itself is busted, last time I used the car the only problem was a power steering leak that I was going to get fixed but cant seem to move my car. First time on the forums, sorry if this is a stupid or obvious problem.

Thanks in advance,
Adam
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      02-02-2009, 01:05 AM   #2
allsystemsgo
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Well I replaced the alternator and had the battery tested and completely recharged, everything seems to be running pretty well. Except for a new little problem......while driving and getting into high rpm's(4500 and up) the battery light on the dash lights up.

Again, thanks in advance to anyone who can help
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      02-15-2009, 11:25 PM   #3
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the alternator you got is bad.
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      02-16-2009, 01:15 PM   #4
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it could be a draw in your car thats drawing electricity out of your car. I had one on my car. It could take weeks to find where the problem is. Draws are one of the hardest problems to find in a car because it could be anywhere. For example 2 wires touching can create a draw from your battery. My fix took one and a half to 2 weeks and the labor and part cost came to 900 because my tech friend hooked me up. Its usually a lot more. He also told me, if you lose a belt, your battery light will come on also, but i dont think that would be your case. good luck
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      02-20-2009, 11:36 PM   #5
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That would suck if the alternator is bad, I'll have to check it out and see. I'm pretty sure its not a loose belt, but I guess I wont know until I look into it more. I really hope its not a draw on the car but that could be true. I've been busy with school so have had no time to work on it, thanks for the replies guys, hopefully I'll be able to figure it out soon.
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      03-13-2009, 01:11 AM   #6
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how long have you had your battery for? take a look at that. If its too old, it might not be able to hold a charge.
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      03-15-2009, 12:14 AM   #7
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The battery is barely a year old, I had it recharged and tested by Interstate batteries since it was still under warranty. So far its still doing a good job of holding a charge, no problems there. Tested the alternator at auto zone and it was fine, and in general it seems to be fine, no loss of power and it keeps the battery charged. Everything is doing fine that light just comes on at high revs and I'm not sure why. Could it possibly be because the alternator is over charging the battery or something?
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      03-15-2009, 06:50 PM   #8
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measure voltage when revving it up...
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      06-04-2009, 02:41 PM   #9
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I bought a voltmeter gauge to keep an eye on voltage when I rev up,but haven't hooked it up yet, although im not entirely sure the best way to do this.
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      06-04-2009, 05:22 PM   #10
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just put it on the jump post and rev it up.


then turn on lights, fogs, defrost and rear defrost.
watch idle.
rev up again.

report results.
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      06-04-2009, 05:49 PM   #11
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Really, right from the jump post? Seems weird having all the current going straight to the voltmeter, I'm trying to find somewhere inside the car to hook it up to so I can watch the meter as I start/rev the engine, probably the cigarette lighter I hardly use it.
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      06-04-2009, 06:40 PM   #12
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volt meter? not an amp meter right?


the meter is just on there to check voltage while testing right? your not installing a gauge right?

the jump post is the most direct spot from the alternator. and what are we checking? the alternator!
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      06-04-2009, 07:06 PM   #13
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haha yea completely embarrassed myself there, especially seeing as I'm an electrical engineering student. I am actually installing a volt gauge for inside the car but for now I just hooked it up to see if I could get it working. I'm not entirly sure if what I saw was good, it showed a steady increase to 14volts after cranking but seemed pretty jumpy, when I revved it up it jumped very fast but only inside a 1volt range and held steady on 14ish volts at 3k revs, but I didnt rev much higher the engine was cold. I will try and officially install the gauge inside my car this weekend so I can watch it as I drive to get an idea of whats going on. Is there any simpler way to tap into the voltage coming from the alternator then running a wire from the batt in my trunk to the gauge in my console, or the port on the motor (I know stupid question, sorry)?
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      06-04-2009, 09:39 PM   #14
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agreed. stupid question


just use a DVOM on the jump point and read it like i said.

post:
running no load.
revved no load.
running with load
revved with load.

granted this is all speculation that the battery is in 90% SOH or so. (fully charged! 12.4 or better!)
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      06-04-2009, 10:07 PM   #15
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I will do that to get an idea, I have a digital multimeter to use, but I wanted to have a gauge in my car all the time just to be able to keep an eye on it. I will report back this weekend once it stops raining.
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      06-04-2009, 10:13 PM   #16
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there is no need for a volt meter in your car.
just live and learn that it needed an alternator.
your engineering side is starting to already show
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      06-10-2009, 04:10 PM   #17
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need? of course not, but wheres the fun in that? haha yea theres no way of avoiding that engineering side, im surprised its just now starting to show. i havent had a chance to get the readings yet, i may go and try and do it now.
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      06-22-2010, 06:03 PM   #18
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im willing to bet that your inital problem when it wouldnt job was your battery being so below its voltage drain that you wouldve had to leave it connected for about 20 minutes before even trying to start.. or a VERY strong jump. it used to happen to me all the time when i found the AC's blower resistor was shorting out my battery about 20 minutes after shutting off the car.. and draining the battery do dead that it would take a very powerful jump to start it
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